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11757553-1-S-Whirlpool-WPY54414-Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing
11757553-1-S-Whirlpool-WPY54414-Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing 11757553-2-S-Whirlpool-WPY54414-Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing 11757553-3-S-Whirlpool-WPY54414-Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/17444.gif

Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing

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PartSelect Number PS11757553
Manufacturer Part Number WPY54414
Manufactured by Whirlpool

The idler pulley wheel helps the belt to rotate the drum in your dryer. If your dryer will not start, will not tumble, or is noisy during operation, the idler pulley wheel may need to be replaced. This part is located beneath the drum of the dryer, so the drum will need to be removed before you can access the idler pulley wheel. It is also recommended to remove the blower housing and motor from the dryer itself, for easier access to the idler pulley wheel. It is connected by a set of two 5/16 screws. This two-inch-wide idler pulley wheel is beige or black in color and is made of plastic. This pulley wheel comes with its own metallic bearing in its center. Be sure to shut off power to the dryer before beginning this repair.

This part works with the following brands: Amana, Speed Queen, Maytag, Crosley, Magic Chef.

This part works with the following products: Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Noisy.
  • Will not tumble.
  • Will Not Start.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.9 / 5.0, 65 reviews What's this?
 

1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Greg from Virginia Beach, VA

Belt noise/slipping even after replaceing worn motor assy

Unplug dryer. Remove lower panel.Remove dryer lent duct. Remove Thermostat fm fan housing. Remove Fan.Remove Fan housing. Remove Motor assy by sliding out, wires lay toward front, allowing room to replace idler pulley and spring. Use lock ring pliers to remove pulley from shaft. Grease pulley/shaft w/high temp grease [I used ultra-hi temp ceramic brake grease-can get in small packets at auto stores].Noise/slippage has all but stopped. Lesson: replace rear rollers and front felt/glides. Belt looseness also caused by worn rear rollers [smaller overall diameter from age]-even though they spin freely

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Wrench set
Customer: Ted from Lakeland, FL

Dryer was making squealing noises

It was pretty simple, really. Quite honestly, Parts Select was the first website that had my model number listed, and even had a diagram of the dryer. Once I removed the covers, it was very obvious that the belt tension pulley was bad, One side was worn away. I ordered both parts, the new pully, and the tension arm with the bearing, since I had no way to tell which was damaged, causing them to bind. They simply bolted to the motor assembly. The hardest part was reassembly. Getting the front panel on and being sure that the tabs holding it in allignment, and that the drum spun freely was really the only concern. The repair took less than 1 hour, and after seeing the inside of my dryer, I am convinced I can easily replace ANY part of this appliance and keep it running as long as I can find parts.

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2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: ROBERT from RICHMOND, TX

Very bad screaching noise when drum was inmotion

First we had to virtually take the entire dryer housing apart - not very user friendly. We found that one of the two mounting screws on on of the rollers was gone. The mount was just wobbling around which caused the roller to fail and all of the noise. The wheel removal was a bit tough since there is very little room to pull it up and off of the center post. Definately need at least one helper to pull up on the drum while the wheels are removed and installed. Once the two new rollers were in place, the dryer worked like it was new. Not an easy job, but very do-albe - saved a ton of money doing it myself. Two must - haves: good set of snap ring plyers and one patient helper.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Jolene from Mount Pleasant, SC

Loud thumping when running the dryer

Thump-thump, thump-thump went the dryer. After doing some research it sounded like the drum support rollers needed to be replaced. When disassembling the dryer, I discovered that this model is different than other Amana dryers. Do not start the disassembly with the top of the dryer. There are two front panels. You must first remove the smaller lower panel. You will find two screws close to the floor. Once you remove the screws the lower panel will come off exposing more screws. Remove those screws and the upper front panel will come off. Tilt the bottom of the panel out to clear the clips at the top. You will then see two screws attached holding down the top of the dryer with brackets. The rest of the disassembly is as described on the partselect video. I replaced the drum support rollers and also the pulley wheel and belt for good measure. I put it all back together. Rather proud of myself, I turn the dryer on. Thump-thump, thump-thump went the dryer. Argggh! Upon closer inspection, I saw that the thumping noise was made when the seam of the drum passed over the support wheel. The seam of the drum had broken causing the metal to flex on one side and create the thumping noise. I had the drum seam welded. There is still a slight thump from the repair, but it is so much better! So if you have a thumping dryer, make sure you check out the seam on the drum as well as the support rollers.

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2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: PHILIP from OAKLAND, ME

Squel while running

remove front panels starting with lower panel and then the upper panel and also the screws that hold the top,lift the to and support it out of the way. removed the front drum support and reached in and took the belt off the idler pulley and then remove the drum. at this point you can get to the idler pulley and the drum support rollers. remove the snap rings and the old rollers and pulley and install the new parts in revers of removal. wrap the new belt around drum and place the drum on the rear support and reinstall the front drum support and put the belt on the same way as removed. reinstall front panels . done
Safety note: Be sure that the dryer plug and receptacle has no corrosion, mine did since the dryer is never unplugged since being installed, and after about 1/2 hr I could smell something burning and it was the plug and receptacle had melted due to a poor connection. Temp of the plug was over 160 deg. Installed new outlet and plug, all fine now

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Steve from Howell, MI

Noisey

Pulled bottom access panel of, pulled front door section off, pulled lint filter assembly out, pulled drum out, disconnected idler arm, installed new idler arm and wheel, new belt around drum, drum back in, front door assembly back on, then routed belt over idler arm wheel, lint assembly back on, bottom access panel back on. very easy job, the hardest part was pushing the new idler wheel over the new pulley lever, but with a few firm taps with a hammer it was on. *Tips...save the idler wheel washers and retaining clip from bad wheel and be sure to draw yourself a diagram of what color wires hook up where, in case you forget.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Larry from Lima, OH

Belt was worn - ready to break, decided to replace the parts that commonly go bad.

I removed the bottom panel, then the larger front panel that includes the door. After that, removed the top 2 screws so that the top would swing up (but not lift off). After that, I removed the front "bulkhead", and the drum. Then it was just a short matter of sweeping everything out, and replacing the parts one by one. Most came off with a socket, or snap ring pliers. Pretty obvious at this point...

Be sure to label any wires - I removed 5 wires all total, and wrote down the colors and where they went.

It's great to have help when working with the drum. BTW, you CAN replace the belt without taking out the drum, but you better have strong fingers to move the belt tensioner and slip the belt on it - all with one hand. I did it, but that was the least "fun" part....

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: heather from uniontown, OH

Screeeeaching

pulled dryer out far enough to lean it back against an object for supprt. removed small bottom front cover then door front after disconecting light and switch wires(make note of which goes where), remove top bolts and flip over carefully allowing to hang without disconnecting wire harness, remove belt and drum. at this point it was posible to get to the belt tentioner pully w/o removing the motor but was easier to replace after i discovered there were only two bolts holding the motor in place. at this point i needed two wrenches to remove the pully lever from the motor frame and replace. put everything back together in reverse and no more screaching. : total parts needed were $27.00 as i thankfully decided to replace pully and lever asumming that six months of screaching may have caused wear to the lever and was right. i replaced the belt while i was in there bringing the total to $42 and change. the belt was not needed so i now have a spare which may come in handy someday. thanks to partselect.com i saved BIG $ in repairs or replacement and now have turned the buzzer on to know when the laundry is done.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Wrench set
Customer: Bill from Milford, NH

Idler pully wheele and belt worn. Wheele flat on one side.

Downloaded an Amana service manual and followed directions. Easy...and was able to clean out built up lint not to mention a couple of dollars in change!

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Gregory from Odessa, MO

Drum made a lot of noise and the drum turned hard

Removed top and front panels, reached in by motor and removed belt from motor, removed drum and replaced slids and back drum wheels. re-assembled the front and top.

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1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Customer: John from Hamilton, NJ

The belt tension pully bearing was worn out making a loud screech when in use.

I unplugged the dryer then removed 2 sheet metal bolts on the lower front access panel. The panel was removed and this exposed the duct for the hot air exhaust. I had to remove the duct to access the package for the motor and worn out pulley. I had to the remove 2 bolts in the bottom corners for the upper front of the dryer. The upper panel was then easily removed, 3 phillips screws had to be removed from inside the drum area on the back of the exhaust duct where the lint filter is inserted.
Once these are removed the duct cowms right out.
This exposes the motor and tension pully platform. I then reached in and moved the tension pulley to relieve pressure and took off the belt that drives the drum.
There are 2 botls at the front base that need to be removed then the platform can be slid forward and the rear tongue comes out of the groove. Rotate the platform 45 degrees and you can access the bolt and nut that mounts the pully arm to the platform. Once removed the spring can be removed and the assembly taken out of the dryer and parts switched over, There is a spring clip you will need to remove normally with a special tool but 2 needle nose pliers will work. Once the parts are replaced reverse the process. Putting the belt back on can be confusing lying on your back with one arm inside the dryer but persistance overcomes resistance,

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0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Hugh from Lansing, MI

Dryer had an intermittent squeak

1st of all my dryer came apart differently than your video showed. I had to remove the lower front panel (2 5/16 screws) then remove the upper front panel (2 5/16 screws)and the spring clips mentioned in the video, then the top with two more screws. After that the removal of the front drum support assembly was as shown in the video. I then loosened the drive belt, removed the drum and the external grip ring securing the idler pulley. The pulley rotated very hard since the shaft and bearing were partially seized. I cleaned the shaft before installing the new pulley. When I initially took the dryer apart to see what the problem was I noticed the front drum guides were showing wear so I ordered and replaced them and the felt pads just to prevent problems in the near future.

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0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: tim from needmore, PA

Loud screeching sound

Unplug the dryer.Removed top. Then removed wires from switch to door (make sure you mark them). Removed front door and bottom panel. Removed lint trap assembly.All bolt heads were 5/16 and used putty knife for top 2 spring clips. Removed belt (remember how it goes) and took out drum. Next clean and vacuum everything really good. Have a good set of retaining ring pliers, these are used to remove the 2 drum support rollers and idler pulley. Drum support rollers have FRONT marked on them, make sure they are facing out. Always make sure retaining rings are locked in there grooves. Next put new belt on drum and place drum back in dryer. Next put put belt on motor pulley and push up on idler puller to run belt under it (this is probably the hardest part). Now just go in reverse order in putting everything back on. Always make sure to double check everthing like the belt make sure its on right and not twisted and check drum make sure its on support rollers and is set right when lint trap assembly is installed and wires reconnected. When cleaning i used a vacuum and an air compressor to blow out all the debris from the motor and other areas.

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0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
Customer: Dave from Thorntown, IN

Idler pully squealing

removed bottom panel.Has 2 screws on bottom.take belt off of idler. take 2 screws out of motor base.turn motor sideways& remove bolt from arm that holds idler. remove snapring holding idler. replace pully & reassemble in reverse. Thank You Partselect for prompt shipping. A+ Rating

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0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Steven from Longmont, CO

Loud squeaking noise

Removed bottom front panel (two nuts)
Disconnected wiring to front door and removed
Remove the two nuts holding the top panel to the front and lifted top out of the way
Disconnected the drive belt from the motor
Lift the drum up and out of the machine
Replaced parts, cleaned cabinet and reassembled with new parts

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS11757553
Manufacturer Part Number: WPY54414
Brand Model Number Description
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