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PartSelect Number PS11757551
This cycling thermostat has a limit of 153 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 15 degrees. This means that with this thermostat, your dryer's heating element will cut out at 153 degrees Fahrenheit and cycle back on when the dryer's internal temperature drops by 15 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet. Then, removed the access panel in the lower front (held on by 2 screws near the floor). Then, I removed the black plastic air duct (held by 3 screws) in front of the blower. Then, with a Sharpie marker, next to each wire terminal lug, I labeled on the chassis the COLOR of each wire where it plugs on to a terminal lug (for proper wiring re-assembly later). Then, thru the lower front, I reached into the lower left rear of the dryer to remove the heating element assembly from its metal duct (held by 3 or 4 screws) - it slides down a bit, then it is easily removable. I layed the element on the floor in front of the dryer - all wiring still intact. Then, using the NEW HEATING ELEMENT and SENSORS ordered, I assembled them to match the original, re-using screws off of the old unit - and moving the wiring one-by-one from the original to the new assembly. I then installed the new heating element assembly into the duct at the lower rear of the dryer. I then replaced the 2 sensors on the front metal panel of blower housing, with new parts from my order, re-using the original wiring and screws. Then I re-installed the black plastic duct onto the front of the blower. Then, on the top of the dryer, I dissassembled the control panel from the rear, by removing 5 screws. I then found the resistor mounted on the back of the timer, and replaced it with the new one. Since the new resistor did not come with terminal lugs crimped on its wires, I had to cut the terminal lugs off of the original resistor and solder them onto the new resistor. I then reassembled the control panel. I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet and did a test run with no clothes. IT WORKED !! Then I reinstalled the lower front access panel and ran the dryer with wet clothes. IT WORKED !!
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This dryer required complete take apart to get to heating element, including removal of drum. Multimeter indicated thermal fuse blown. I replaced it and it blew again. I replaced fuse(again), heating element, limit thermostat, and cycling thermostat to eliminate all potential causes. Dryer works like new. Cycling thermostat had been bad for years, but I never knew it, just had to run dryer two cycles all the time.
took off lower front panel was able to reach all parts ...all parts i ordered were perfect matches........
Determined that the 2 completely worn off front & rear drum seals were causing dryer to take too long to dry clothes.Removed the front bottom panel first, then the middle panel and then the top panel. After removing the belt from the drum, it came out easily. Replaced both thermostats and fusejust so they would be new in the unit.Reglued the seals in place and waited til glue dried. Then reassembled everything back. Also lubricated the drum wheels. Everything worked and was quiet!
In my case I had no idea initially what was wrong so I tore the entire dryer apart. Took the control panel apart, the front kick plate off, the door assemly off, then took the entire dryer housing off the base so I could get to everything. It was at this point I decided to try to seriously repair it myself. I found PartsSelect, read through the appropriate repair stories and determined the only real possible parts. I ordered the parts, received them promptly, and replaced 4 of the 5. The parts were easy to replace, just unplug the wires, used a socket set to remove the bolts holding them and replaced. I also unplugged the two wires to the element, unbolted it, cleaned it out and replaced it. The 5th part, the roller shaft did not have to be replaced. The original was in fine condition, it had simply loosened and was wobbly from 12 years of use. The bearing was still perfect with no slack in the shaft at all. After hooking up what I needed to for a test run, all was well. I then took about 2 hours to put everything back together. The dryer now works perfectly........dries loads completely in approx. 30 minutes and runs whisper quiet.
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