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PartSelect Number PS11757542
At 100 inches in length, this dryer drum belt is 3/8 of an inch wide and has five ridges. This belt is all black in color and it is made entirely of rubber.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First step was diagnosis. I unplugged the dryer and removed the front panel to access the heater. I disconnected the push on terminal at the heater over temp sensor and tested heater for continuity using a dvm. No continuity meant the heater element was bad. I visually inspected the tumber belt and found it to be split. I ordered the parts heater element and belt from partselect on a thursday at 2:00 pm. I received notice that they shipped the same day! Fedex delivered the parts by saturday. It took me about an hour to remove the heater and replace the element (its the 2nd replacement in 28 years) and about another hour to replace the belt and do a general cleaning of the dryer interior. All in all, it was a fairly easy repair (for a technically inclined guy).
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Had replaced the heater element a few week earlier under the thought that it had failed just because the dryer was old. But shortly after replacing the element the dyrer started making a lot of noise when started. A few dryer loads later the hearte element had faild again. The design of the Maytag Dryer makes most repairs easy. The machine is very well made. Since I was investigate the noise that the dyrer was making, I did a complete teardown of the dryer to check things out. Fould that the drum drive belt was old and the blower fan had spun off the locking tab and also that the heater element was burned out. again. Did a complete check of all moving parts and orded the parts that needed to be replaced. Did a clean up of all old lint in the dryer vent system and fan unit. The fan and belt parts were easy to replace. The heater element does take time and care when working with the ceramic holders. But since I had done it before I did not find any surprised. The dryer works like new now. Just hope none of the sensors or ideler wheels give out.
Followed advice from here; unplugged machine from power source, removed two phillips head screws located just out of sight below the little indentaion on the front panel, removed front panel & set aside the machine. Unclipping the door switch wires allowed for enough slack so that they didn't need to be disconnected. Unscrewed (or un-hooked, don't remember) the lint box, pulled the drum out slightly, removed the belt, pulled drum out all the way & set aside. Removed the snap rings & wahsers from the idler wheels, removed wheels, put a light coating ot synthetic grease on the shafts & in the idler bushings, re-installed idlers, washers, & snap rings. Re-assembled in reverse order of assembly with alittle difficulty iin getting the new belt in the proper configuration. Removed small access panel in rear of machine to assist in installng the belt finally realizing that the belt DOES NOT go in the indented area of the drum, but on the larger diameter of the drum itself. Tested by rotating by hand, re-assembled front cover, plugged it in & dried the laundry......QUIETLY!
I pulled the face of the dry off by removing the two screws on the lower face below the door. I pulled the drum out by removing the two bolts holding the drum mounts to the frame. I put the new belt around the drum and remounted it. The access hole on the lower right corner on the back of the appliance allowed me to turn the drum to align the belt (and turn it right side up) with the pulley. It took a moment to figure out how to re-thread the pulley but was able to do it after only a couple of tries. All in all it was quite easy!
If I had waited until I reviewed the pack-up date that came with the part, the disassembly would have gone much faster. The part arrived in record time, several days before anticipated. Outstanding website, parts and repair experience!
Removed the front panel by removing two front screws. Removed screws from front panel holding tumbler drum. Cleaned interior with a vacuum cleaner. (dryer is at least 16 years old). Removed what was left of rivets on damaged glides with a drill, and cleaned area well. Attached new glides with rivet gun, and also applied glue to make glide and cork more secure. Replaced belts, and decided to reverse drum due to damage to drum from allowing glides to deteriorate to the point of putting scratches on the drum itself, allowing the new glides to rest on drum where there was no damage at all. This process was easy, and fast. We did make one error however, in not noticing that with our model, that there were TWO glides to be replaced. Luckily a local repair shop had one more glide so the job could be done the same day. The dryer sounds like it did when it was brand new. Very quiet! The comments from other home repairs helped very much in clairifying any possible errors. Fast delivery of parts, and the extra help was great. Thanks!
Found step by step instructions on your website, they were posted by another do-it-yourselfer. The exact make of dryer that I have, and the drawings with part numbers listed was quite helpful. The bad motor came out easy enough and the new one was just like the old so it fit right into place. Strung a new belt around the tumbler drum and dryer is just like NEW. Thank you so much. Probably saved a couple hundred dollars.
I looked for dryer repair videos on my computer. I found several and they all showed me that what was most likely broken was the tumbler belt. I didn't even know dryers had a belt. My dryer still turned on,and still produced heat. It just wouldn't rotate. One of the videos even used the exact Maytag dryer in their video that I had. After watching it a few times, I knew I could make this repair. I am pretty good at fixing things if I can first see it done. I had never taken a dryer apart before though. I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. I unscrewed the small access panel on the back of the dryer. This let me see the two belt pulleys back there. Then I went to the front and removed the two screws(my particular model) that held the front panel on and removed it. I then unscrewed the four screws holding on the front face plate in front of the tumbler. Next, I pulled the tumbler out, it is not screwed in. There was the broken belt. It took two days with regular shipping for the belt to come in. I put the tumbler back in, resting it on its two supports, placed the belt on, flat side down, and routed the belt through the pulleys in the back of the dryer exactly as it had been shown in the videos. I turned the tumbler clockwise two full rotations by hand to make sure the belt was seated correctly on the pulleys, and it was. I then screwed the face plate back on in front of the tumbler, put the front panel back on and screwed it in. I then reattached the back access panel. I plugged the dryer back in and turned it on. It worked. Though it may take a bit longer, this type of repair is about as easy as replacing a broken belt on a vacuum cleaner even for someone who has never done a dryer repair before. Watch a Repair Clinic video and if you enjoy fixing things, replacing a belt on a clothes dryer will be your next successful repair. It really is pretty easy.
I observed that the top of the dryer was affixed by two screws at each front corner. With these removed the top of the dryer could be easily lifted and with the front support panel removed the drum, drive motor and idler pulley could be accessed. This allowed the installation of a new drum belt in a short period of time. Installing the belt from the front lower left hand side proved very difficult for me but with the top raised and coming in from the top it was accomplished in short order. Thank you, Wesley Harmon
My first attemp was to replace the drum roller and idler roller, drive belt, and the felt seal for the back, since I had experience replacing these on an older machine many years ago. The dryer was very easy to work on....After installing the new parts, I reassembled and discovered it still made the same loud noise. I then, disassembled for the second time to discover the blower wheel was worn out; so i ordered another blower wheel and a drum support roller (i only ordered one the first time.). After reassembling it made an annoying high pitch sound. I attributed that to the new parts...probably the new belt and new felt seal. Gave it some time to run-in and it seems to have quieted down. Overall, i found the dryer very easy to work on. I actually found the felt seal the most onerous to install....needed to have about three hands to get the drum back in place! I just wish that the stamped metal dryer housing didn't have such sharp edges. I had to be very careful to avoid sharp burrs but still got nicked a couple of times.
The repair went better then I thought it would go.the seals went on just fine
From the noise level and info on this site, I assumed I needed to replace the drum rollers. I ordered two, along with the Roller Shaft, and a replacement belt (I assumed that would eventually need to be replaced so why not now).No need for me to repeat the excellent reviews/instructions already on this site. Basically, it was an easy job that took about 2 hours, mostly because I took the time to clean every nook and cranny I could find.Once I assembled it back up, the shriek was gone but the rumble noise was still there. I now realize that the blower wheel must have a worn out d-hole that mates with the motor shaft. So, I will have to order that part, get it installed and I am confident that I will have a "new" machine once that is in place.
Turned off breaker, then unplugged it anyway. I need some room to attack this old dog! Pulled out of its hole beside the washer and went to work. Opps, don't forget the flexible vent, I broke it off about a foot from the dryer. Four screws on back, lower right to remove acccess panel. Next two screws under front panel, pull bottom out about a foot and it unclips at top. Read the 5 repair stories about replacing the motor as I took everything apart, all were helpful. Had to put motor in a vise to loosen set screw on pulley, lucky I had a 3/16 allen socket, that was the only hard part, unless you count getting screws out from under the freezer where I kicked them. Be careful. Still ended up with belt in v-groove on back part of drum (where it does NOT go) so had to reach in from front and pull it out about 4 or 5 inches. Things a quiet now and I am a hero around here. Thanks for the good help fellows.
Undid two screws in lower front of dryer and popped off front. Removed screws holding lint screen duct and brackets supporting tumbler and removed duct and tumbler quite easily. Pulled, cleaned and oiled rear rollers, replaced front glides, and thoroughly cleaned exhaust duct of lint. Put new belt into position on the roller before sliding tumbler back in, then pulled belt over tumbler as it went in. Be careful to follow belt path directions correctly. Key to this repair was obtaining the parts so easily from Parts Select.com. Ordered at 2pm and had them 2pm the following day. Unbelievable! These machines are relatively simple to keep running when the parts are available so easily. Thanks for great service.
1. Removed two screws from front panel.2. Removed panel.3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face.4. Removed face.5. Removed drum and belt.6. Vacuumed.7. Replaced idler spring assembly.8. Replaced drum.9. Replaced belt.10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated. 11. Replaced tumbler face.12. Replaced front panel.
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