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PartSelect Number PS11757518
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 140 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 20 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 140 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 20 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I took the back and front off and vacuumed up the built up lint. I couldn't see anything glaringly wrong, so I started looking online and found www.partselect.com .I went through the list of things to check one by one until I found the thermal fuse to be blown. A sticker inside the dryer said "Replace cycling therm. when replacing thermal fuse," so I followed that advice and replaced the thermostat. I followed the directions on the same link.Dryer has been working fine since. I cleaned lots of built up lint, which it seems may have been the culprit.
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Were these instructions helpful?
First let me say that this dryer is at least 30 years old. The only repairs it has needed up to this point were a set of belts and lint screen holder.I researched and found a list of items to check for dryer not heating. Only 3 items were listed as possible causes, the Heating Element, Cycling Thermostat, and Heating Element Terminal & Insulator.First and most important step - UNPLUG THE DRYER FROM THE WALLTo access the cycling thermostat, I removed the back panel. The thermostat is located on top of the blower housing and is easily accessable. I was unable to test the old part.Accessing the heating element and terminal insulators is a bit more difficult as they are located in the fron of the dryer around the door opening. Further research showed the way to access these parts was to remove the cabinet from the chassis. After photographing the wiring connections, I disconnected the cycling thermostat and motor connections. Next, I removed the 3 screws at the bottom of each side panel. With the dryer door removed (it lifts off when open), I simply lifted the cabinet up over the drum. I recommend having someone assist with this as it is awkward and a little heavy. Lay the cabinet on its front on a rug to keep from scratching the finish. The heating element and insulators can be inspected at this time. Having found no breaks in the element or insulators, I assumed the problem was the cycling thermostat and ordered one. When I got it (less than 2 days), I installed it and reassembled the cabinet to the chassis. I plugged the dryer in and set the timer. Still no heat!After looking at the schematic, I found 2 other possible causes for no heat. The motor contains a centrifugual switch (closes when the motor spins) which I was not able to check. There is also a HIGH LIMIT thermostat on the shroud that holds the heating element. I decided I could test this part by by-passing it. I unplugged the dryer and removed the back once again. I reached past the drum from the back (not easy to do) and disconnected the 2 wires from the thermostat and connected them together. I plugged the dryer back in and started the dryer. It heated up like it should. I then ordered the high limit thermostat. After removing the cabinet once again (easier 2nd time), I installed the high limit thermostat and reassembled the unit.The Dryer is working fine and hopefully should last another 25-30 years.
I had a repairman come by to take a look at my 20+ year old dryer because it wasn't working properly, NO HEAT. He said it was the cycling thermostat and wanted to charge me $190 to fix this problem. He left me the paperwork for this diagnose and charged me $49.50 for looking at the dryer. I called a friend of mine and told him what the repairman had said. He went into your website and found the part, the first time around we ordered the wrong part. No problem, I sent the wrong part back and reordered the proper one. It took him no more than 20 minutes to install this part. I received credit for the wrong part within 2 weeks. The dryer is working great. It’s good to know of a company that still can provide you with parts for a dryer as old as mine, thanks. It worked and it' still working!
After replacing the cycling thermostat failed to fix the problem, I jumped the Dampness sensor, overtemp sensor and flame sensor - no change, flame went out after 15 to 30 seconds. Ordered the replacement coils for the gas control and reconnected all sensors: solved!
Front panel came off with two philips head screws.First thermostat was behind a 2 screw sheet metal barrier.Second was far right and slightly cramped, but a right anglerachet drive and phillips head bit did the trick.The wire colors were an exact match to the OEM thermostats.So far the dryer is running shorter, and there is almost no water in the vent tube or the face of the dryer door opening. A cheap fix for an old reliable dryer.Whle you're in the guts, always vacuum out all the lint and dust on all parts. Stupid to leave it dirty and run less efficient.
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