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PartSelect Number PS11754584
This hi-limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this piece will shut down power to the heating element.
NOTE: As per the manufacturer this part has been updated, may look different but will function the same as the original.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I first unplugged the electrical plug, then opened up the dryer, front and back. Once I had diagnosed the problem I unscrewed the thermal fuses and thermostat. Marked which color wire went to which connector and continued to replace one wire at a time. Re-attached the mounting screws, verified all wires were connected, plugged in dryer to test heat cycle. Once the dryer worked correctly I vacuumed all lint and covered it up.
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After 30 miutes of research on this website I felt confident to investigate the problem. Removal of the back cover is straightforward. Initially I did not appreciate and obstruction of the ductwork exitting the dryer. I bypassed the thermal fuse by removing the wires and temporarily taping them together and heat was restored. Knowing flow was OK exitting the dryer I investigated flow from the lint trap to the blower motor which is where the problem was located. In our case the lint filter was torn allowing many small objects and lint to near completely clog the pathway between the lint trap and the blower motor. It was difficult to appreaciate how obstructed that pathway was without removing the entire channel from the machine which was simple and required removing two screws at the lint trap opening followed by 3-4 screws on the back of the channel. Once removed, it was easy to appreaciate the debris clogging the channel and was easy to clean with a hose and running water. Replacement was a snap. The parts were oredered and sent in a day. I prophylactically replaced thermastats based upon a recommendation from another website. Replacing previous parts with new parts was a snap. Out the door we were up and running for around $100 (including new thermostats). The dryer repair man may go the way of the dinosaur.
I checked parts select.com and followed the guide lines,ordered the correct parts thanks to the web site help.parts arrived in 2 days,A very easy install and back to work drying clothes.Thanks parts select.
after reading your site reviews I bought all 3 thermostat's. It took about 30 minutes (with a coffee break) to change them all out and that saved me $400.00. I popped the lower front pannel off and all three thermostat's were accessable from there. i needed to remove the lent trap and tube which is held on by 2 screws to access the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. there was a lot of lint trapped in the tube. it was a few screws and some spade connectors. very easy repair. as I said above buy all 3 and it saved me $400.00.
Replaced thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, igniter kit and thermostate. Dryer still does not work, still no heat.Have ordered gas valve solinoids to try next.
First i removed the rear panel on the dryer.the removed bothe thermostats that were on the blower housings.unpluged all wiers and installed new thermostats.reinstalled the wiers in there proper locations...note to log the location of the wires when removing from old switch.reinstalled the rear panel and hooked dryer back up and test.
Just removed the back panel with nut driver . Located the parts and replaced one at a t-ime. I replaced all the parts that I order , so I really can't say which part fixed it. But working good now.
Accessed and removed the rear panel. I replaced the three electrical components with a nut driver and reattached the rear panel. The fix worked, so I have not yet replaced the gas coil sensors at the front of the dryer. The dryer is 19 years old, so the electrical connectors were pretty tight. I used needle nose pliers to pull the connectors free and prevent any damage to the wires. Good Luck.
I've nothing to add to the techniques already described in the other narratives except that the dryer operated normally at first, but then after around 10 minutes the flame no longer cycled. I suspected a bad high limit thermostat since the valves seemed to be working. I ordered the replacement coils only because they were listed as the most common thing to fail. After replacing the T-Stat there was no change; I started checking things w/ a multimeter and found that all the T-Stats were closed. I should have done that at first. Anyway, since I had the new coils I decided to put them in. The dryer has workd perfectly ever since. Lesson to be learned: the coils may check ok when cold, but become inoperable after heating up a bit.
After searching google about my problem I was directed to Partselect.com, there I seen other people with the same problem I had and I read all there post's and I purchesed the parts they used. I believe it was just the one time thermal fuse but I ordered the other parts just to be safe. I placed my order in the afternoon and I received my parts the next afternoon! I was shocked. I installed the parts in less then 30min's using there diagram I printed. I tested the dryer and it worked again! I spent less then $50.00 for parts and shipping, I know I saved alot of money as having someone out to look at the dryer would've cost me at least $50.00
Dryer ran but no heat. 1st thing I assumed was a bad glow plug. Mistake, after 2 hrs taking apart the front of the dryer(Drum,Belt,Whole front) and tested the voltage to glow plug was 0. I went to parts select and determined that the thermal fuse was bad. Replaced it along with the t-stat and over-limit switch. Worked great! Next time I will go to this web site BEFORE I assume anything. whole repair was less then $60.00 Very fast shipping and 2 weeks later the dryer is still working. Advice to everyone, replace all 3 items to play it safe not just the thermal fuse!
unscrewed screws unhooked wires and replace parts in revise order but this still don't fix the problem
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