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PartSelect Number PS11752991
Note: As per manufacture a new screw is needed to mount door cam.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is closing great now. Thanks for the quick part deliver.
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Door quit closing on it's own......** Order the following from www.partselect.comLower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS3276411. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket cover on top of hinge3. Have someone hold the frige door in place4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.10. Replace with new cam.11. put door back on hinge12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws13. Reinstall plastic cover.14. Voila, you're doneThanks PartSelect !
Because the lower cams are made out of hard plastic the repeated opening and closing of the door wore them out. The hardest part was taking all of the food that is normally stored in the door.First step was to determine whether the screws were metric or US standard - they are metric. The next step was to remove the top hinge in order to remove the door and replace the bottom cams and brackets. This took a couple of minutes, replacing the cams was about 5 minutes and putting the door back on the pivot and reattaching the top hinge was another couple of minutes. If I had called a service tech they would have charged a minimum of two hour and for the parts. I estimate that I saved myself about $100.
The door is very easy to remove. There is one nut for the cap on the top of the soor hinge. Once the cap is removed, you need to remove the 3 nuts holding the hinge in place. Simply lift the door off the lower hinge and rest it on the dining room table. I set towels down to protect the stainless finish. The closing cam will be visible on the bottom of the door. I choose to replace the lower cam and the upper cam at the same time. I did not know what the problem cam was. The door works good as new. I put a small amount of vaseline where the two cams rub to provide a lubricant.
Parts arrived at 2:30PM.Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did not have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.) I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.Done by 3:00PM.
The plastic lower door closing cam was worn down. Replacing it was very simple: remove the top door hinge by unscrewing three nuts; lift the door off the lower hinge; unscrew and remove the lower door hinge; screw the new plastic lower door closing cam on to the new door hinge; screw the new lower door hinge; lift the door back on to the lower door hinge; screw the top door hinge.
replaced lower door closing cams and shim and cleanded and lubricated top and bottom hinge. Took about 30 minutes. Hardest part was unloading the door and finding a place to put all the bottles and stuff. Door works just fine now.
Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..
Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.
First removed the three screws at the top that holds the door at the top. Removed the worn out lower door cam after removing one screw. Did the same on the door closing cam (in fact this cam has worn and broken into two pieces). Replaced with the new ones, put the screws back, mounted the door and replaced the three screws on top. The door closed perfectly. Since this did not help with keeping the refrigerator cold, a day later I had to vacuum the dust off the coils (on the underside of the refrigerator) and thaw the ice from the freezer compartment clearing the ducts to re-initiate the proper flow of air between the two compartments (I learnt on the internet that cold air from the freezer is drawn to maintain the temperature in the refrigerator compartment). The faulty refrigerator door ended up icing our frost free referigerator's freezer compartment and the air ducts in it. Therefore I had to simply turn off the refrigerator for 12 hours, thaw everything and restart! I know nothing about refrigerators. Just did it after visiting your site and a couple of other sites. Saved me about $300!!
I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.Thanks
First I removed all contents from inside refrigerator door.Then I removed (1) 10mil screw,which holds cover for top hinge.Next I removed the (3) hinge screws,and lifted door off of bottom hinge.Pulled off plastic closure cam from bottom metal hinge post.I cleaned metal post ,applied a small amount of vaseline to post, slid on new plastic cam,installed door, replaced screws.Very easy,10 to 15 min tops.
Removed door from refrigerator. Had to use pliers to pull out the broken piece in the bottom of the door. Appears to have gotten "glued" in when they blew in the insulation - was very sticky. All went well after than.However, it seams that while there are two holes to select from when mounting the lower cam, neither one really works. When closed the cams still don't line up and the door sites just a bit higher than it should and the upper cam's riser is sitting about 1/2 way on the lower cam's. It seems this part is not designed to exactly replace the original or there is something I'm missing.
The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.
Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts)Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket(after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!)removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet.Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-boltedremoved one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts)worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole.Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight.Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket.All bolts were 5/16 Door now works perfectly again.
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