Once this valve senses the desired heat, it will open up and allow the gas to travel to the oven burner.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Will Not Start | Little to no heat when baking
This part works with the following products:
Range.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Estate, Maytag.
Part# WPW10293048 replaces these:
AP6018899, 8054079, 9761959, W10293048
Customer Reviews
Average Rating:
★★★★★
★★★★★
5 Reviews
4.4
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★★★★★
★★★★★
Sue H - January 10, 2024
Verified Purchase
Easy repair....great part
The repair went well and fit perfectly. Prompt delivery.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Andrew B - April 4, 2020
Verified Purchase
Gas valve replacement
The part when in easy and in about 15 minutes. I also watch 2 YouTube videos and took a trip to the local hardware store for parts needed as indicated in the videos prior to making the repair. The replaced part was indeed the problem and the new part is working well. I only gave 3 stars because, according to the very informative videos this is a know and chronic problem. There needs to be some competition from the parts maker or range manufacturer, in this case GE. However, with past experiences with GE appliances, my refrigerator I've found out that their custom service really sucks and they don't stand behind their products. So I'm not holding my breath for GE to do the right thing with a recall. I'll just continue trashing their name at every opportunity.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Keith B - April 2, 2020
Verified Purchase
Whirlpool gold gas range.
This part was installed in my whirlpool gas range. The range wouldn’t heat or broil but the top burners worked just fine. Replacing the bad gas valve with this good one worked perfectly. 20 minute repair for novice fixers. Look on YouTube for tutorials
★★★★★
★★★★★
Philip B - May 2, 2018
Verified Purchase
Great Purchase!
working great!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Anthony G - March 21, 2018
Verified Purchase
Easy to install, fast repair
The part was brand new in great condition. It took about forty-five minutes from beginning to end to complete fix my oven. Part was affordable and by doing the job myself, I saved a lot of money.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.1 / 5.0, 10 reviews.
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Oven would not maintain Heating
Following details from the installation video, after removing the main gas line and the two output lines I removed the four screws that removed the valve but found it was easier to remove and install the new one if I first removed the oven burner(it made for lining up the valve nozzle to the burner easier) from the inside, 3 wires attach
... Read moreon the side towards the stove taking one wire from the old valve and putting it on the new valve in the same place. Everything went back together just fine, I did have some problem with tightening one of the two gas lines for the output and found I just had to keep tightening it a little until there were no bubbles appearing when I applied soapy water to the connections, other than that it was very straight forward.
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Cheryl from WEST JORDAN, UT
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 2 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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The Bake and Broil both stopped working. You could hear the igniters but no gas flowed.
Replace the gas valve. It is simple to replace, but please note that it comes configured for Natural Gas. If you are using Propane, there are two changes you need to make first.
1. Remove and invert the gas pressure regulator. See page 11 of the owners manual.
2. Tighten down the orifice hood all the way about 2 1
... Read more/2 turns. It comes configured to stick farther up into the air mixer. See page 12.
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Glen from LOS GATOS, CA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench set
1 of 2 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Over would not heat
On the back of the range was a little plastic bag with the range document. In this document was instructions on how to check out the electronic controls, a drawing of the electrical wiring and a digram of the gas line part of the range. First I did the electronic part and it check fine. Following that the instruction was to check out the
... Read moresolenoid coils for the bake and broil valve. I believe the wires were blue, red and orange(it tells on the wiring diagram). It called for 216 ohms on each coil. When I unpluged the plug from the circuit board on the upper right backside of control panel I checked the resistance for the two coils. One side had 198 ohms and the other coil had 0 ohms. The instruction said that if either coil didn't measure 216 ohms or close to that value the valve would not work. So, I wrote down the Model number. Next I checked the gas valve for numbers, wrote down all that was on the valve because I didn't know which one was the part number for the valve. Went on line to the Whirlpool site, once in the Whirlpool site I found out they have a diagram of parts for different appliances, pulled up the model I was looking for, found the valve( under the valve part, the number was different than the one I had, but the information said it would fit the model of appliance I have) order the part. In a few days the part arrived. I turn the gas off, unplugged the electric. I removed the gas lines, had just a bit of a problem with the short gas line going to the burner for the oven, when the line was out I unplugged the control wires. Nake sure you write down how thw wires are on the valve before unplugging. There is an adaptor on the valve to the main gas line. You need to take this off and put on the new valve. This is where you need the pipe cement. Stay back from the end of the adaptor that goes into the valve one or two threads with the pipe cement. you do not want to get any inside of the valve. Put the adaptor on, tighten, plug in the control wires, replace the valve on the stove, connect the gas lines, put all the gas lines on before you tighten them. Turn on the gas. Check lines with soapy water for gas leaks. Plug in the electric, check it out. Don't forget to put the instruction back in their little plastic package and I also put a copy of the order I had for the new valve just in case I need it in the furture.
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Jeffrey L from Otterbein, IN
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench set
9 of 11 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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The broiler, and oven both went out simultaneously. Neither would light, (not even a click) nor would gas flow to them when turned on. The warm up timer just kept ticking as though nothing was wrong.
According to the manual tucked behind the oven, if one solenoid on the gas safety valve/regulator doesn't work, neither will work. It indicated that from the center (common) pin to each of the others, it should read 216 ohms. Mine read 200 to one side, none to the other. I ordered a replacement, had a buddy tip the oven up for easy access
... Read more while I went at it with a screw driver and some line wrenches. Swapped it out and she works like a dream now.
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Grant from Redmond, OR
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench set
18 of 21 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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The Gas Safety Valve would not shut off. Gas conyinued to flow when oven switch was turned off.
Removed two gas lines at the safety valve. Removed the four mounting screws and disconnected the three wires. Re-assembled in reverse order of dis-assembly. This was an easy diagnosis and repair/replacement. The PartSelect website is very easy to use if you have the model number and I like the diagrams to be sure the part is correct.
John from Hardwick, VT
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
4 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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I just intalled the part, but the problem continued
I had problem with the oven of the stove since the beginning. It wa difficult to start. Later, it stoped working. The technician told m that the gas valve regulator was the problem. That was the reason I decided to buy a new one. After installing it, however, the problem continues. The ignition starts, but the gas does not go thru.
... Read more It seems the signal does not go to the valve to open the gas.
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Wagner from Miami, FL
Difficulty Level:
Very Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 11 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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The gas Safety Valve leaked gas.
This is a very simple repair. 1st shut off your gas. Disconnect your gas line from the gas shut off value to the Gas Safety Value(GSV/R)/Regulator. Disconnect the other 2 lines attached to the GSV/R. Remove the 4 mounting screws holding the GSV/V. Wiggle the GSV/R from its location. Carefully remove the 3 wires connected to the GSV/R
... Read more. Install your new GSV/R in reverse order applying sealant to the threaded joints. test for leaks.............. your done!!!
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DAVID from ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
10 of 11 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Oven and Broiler Wouldn't Light
#1) Pulled the range away from the wall and unplugged the electrical cord #2) Turned the gas valve off and pulled the range away from the wall as far as the gas line allowed. #3) Disconnected the gas line at the range and pulled the range out to access the regulator at the bottom and pulled out the bottom shelf to access the fro
... Read morent of the regulator. #4) I took photos of the regulator front and back for future reference. #5) Unhooked the feeder gas lines to the oven and cooktop in the rear. #6) Unhooked the three electrical wires attached to the regulator front and removed the set screw at the air/gas shield feeding the oven distributor and slid the shield down to the feeder line seat. #7) Removed the four set screws holding the regulator to the back frame. #8) Installed the new regulator with the four set screws in the back. Applied thread dope to the two gas feeder lines and installed the gas lines to the new regulator. #9) Referenced the photos taken earlier for proper electrical colored wires to the regulator terminal block and reset the air/gas shield in the prior location and tightened the set screw. #10) Applied thread dope to the main gas line and installed it in the supply side of the regulator. Turned on the gas and sprayed soapy water on the threads (all) to check for leaks. #11) While the range was still away from the wall, plugged in the electrical cord, set the time, turned on the oven and broiler to checl operation. #12) Cleaned up the range back and floor and moved it back into place. Re-leveled the range and received accolades from my Wife for a job well done. (perhaps now she will actually cook on it)
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Steven from Las Vegas, NV
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
22 of 26 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Gas regulator started to leak.
First I removed the gas line from th wall. Second I removed to gas lines going from the regulator to the stove. The regulator then unscrewed from the stove itself and that was it. I reversed the process to install the regulator.
Jason from Apple Valley, CA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Wrench set
10 of 13 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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oven wouldn't heat
My oven was misdiagnosed from an appliance repair company. They said my ignitors and spark module needed to be replaced. I did this myself and still nothing. The problem happened to be a defective gas valve.
First I unplugged the stove and shut off the gas supply. After I disconnected the flex hose and the 2 gas connections
... Read more behind the stove, I removed the 4 screws that held the valve to the back of the stove.
I went to the front of the appliance and pulled out the bottom drawer. This exposed the valve from the other side. I disconnected the electrical connections (3 colored wires) to the valve and removed it. I re-attached the new valve, putting everything back in reverse order. I made sure the 3 wires were reconnected correctly by labeling each one before disconnecting them. I made certain that my gas connections were sealed by using teflon tape and/or pipe sealant from the hardware store. I turned the shutoff valve back to the on position and checked for leaks. If I smelled gas I snugged it down a bit more until no gas smell was detected.
There was nothing wrong with the ignitors or the spark module. The stove failed to pre-heat and the "tick-tick" I used to hear when the stove was first turned on was nonexistent. What the so-called experts said would be hundreds of dollars to fix unded up being a $90 part.
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Ignatius from Hazelwood, MO
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Wrench (Adjustable)
98 of 109 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers
Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
8 questions answered by our experts.
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Chuck Neiry
December 24, 2017
When turning the oven bake cycle on i can hear the igniter clicking and then the oven burner lights but the igniter keeps clicking and a few seconds later the clicking stops and the burner goes out. Could this part being causing these symptoms
For model number SF367LEMB1
Hello Chuck, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: Igniter, spark module and gas valve. Hope this helps!
5 people found this helpful.
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Toni
February 25, 2019
The bottom oven burner will ignite but then it will go right back out, this is while it is in the
Bake mode. Is the gas valve the cause of this? The broiler burner works fine.
For model number WFG371LVB1
Hello Toni, Thank you for contacting us. I suggest checking the following two parts: PS11749737 Oven Sensor, and PS11747217 Bake Igniter. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, we have videos available to assist you.
4 people found this helpful.
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Mitchell
October 17, 2019
My gas stove is completing dead no lights no burners no oven.
For model number gs7731xss
Hello Mitchell, thank you for writing. This sounds like a failed Electronic Control, part number PS11748463 for your model range. Good luck with your repair!
2 people found this helpful.
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Carol
December 10, 2019
My oven ignites heats up then when it gets hot seems like it won’t stay at temp won’t ignite again
For model number 66572024100
Hello Carol and thanks for writing.
It certainly sounds like a faulty oven sensor PS11749737 and or faulty gas valve test and replace if needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
1 person found this helpful.
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Ted
December 22, 2022
My maytag gas oven stopped working but the top burners work just fine.. I replace both oven ignitors, oven sensor, and also the igniter circut board.. still will not light the oven or start ignitors.. no codes show up, but when I held the cancel button down it will show me F5 E2 not sure what that means.. I'm thinking it either has to be the gas valve or main control board..
For model number MGR7662WB1
Hi Ted, thank you for reaching out. The F5 E2 error means there may be a problem with the Main Oven Door Latch Assembly, the Door Switch, or the associated wiring. We would recommend checking the following parts: Door Switch, part number PS11747197, Door Latch, part number PS11747307, and Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly, part number PS11748282. We look forward to hearing from you if you need assistance with placing an order through our 7-days-a-week customer service. We hope this helps!
Oven comes on every now and then, will this part solve the problem or is thier multipal parts to order?
For model number SF362LXSQ0
Hello Edrick, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: ignitor, valve, spark module, and oven sensor. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!
1 person found this helpful.
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Les
December 26, 2022
I performed a conversion from natural to lp and now out of the gas pressure regulator cap after removal and turning it around there is a leak from the center of the cap. Why? I did verify leak with detector.
For model number sf362lxtb2
Hello Les, thank you for your question. When pressure is too high, the propane regulator helps the system “breathe.” However, some propane may escape via the vent hole when the regulator reduces pressure. The vent is present to function as a fail-safe to prevent excess pressure from entering the system. We hope this help.
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Aaron
March 9, 2023
My burners work, but the oven won't come on . I don't even here any gas going to the oven.
For model number WFG374LVS2
Hi Aaron, thank you for contacting us. If there is a gas line problem, the gas will not reach the burners. If they are still working, you may be able to discount this cause. Generally, you will hear a whooshing sound after a few clicks, and then the burner will ignite. The sound of "whoosh" comes from the gas running to the burners. If you don't hear it, the actual problem could be in the gas line. That is why your oven is not heating up, even if the stove works. If it is a gas line issue, check all of the other gas supply valves, such as those on the branch lines. If no gas is going to the oven, it is possible that your gas valve, part number PS11752203, is malfunctioning and needs replacement. When the gas valve senses the desired heat, it will open up and allow the gas to travel to the oven. If the gas valves are fine and there is no gas issue, you will need to replace the igniter. You will need a multimeter to test the igniters, part numbers PS11747217 and PS11744847. If the gas igniter is working, the problem might be that the gas elements or burners are blocked. The next component to check if you still have not found the cause of the problem is the temperature sensor, part number PS11749737. We hope this information helps!
