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PartSelect Number PS11750968
The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It will appear different but will still function the same as the original.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed the ice tray took the screws out and installed the end cap, then took the cardboard cover off the back removed two screws unscrewed the water lines and replaced the water inlet valve. Should have done this years ago. What an easy fix. It was real nice to talk to a tech that was able to tell me what was wrong and how to fix the problem. Saved me alot of money!
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There are 2 main parts to repair an icemaker. I replaced the inlet valve first--it is the least expensive. Just unplug frig and bend plastic inflow hose in half and hold with a rubber band. This keeps water from leaking out. Take out old valve and reinstall new exactly as the old. There are only 2 electric connections and 3 water, so it is hard to go wrong;just put it back together the way you took it apart. Plug in and open water inlet. Unfortunately the icemaker still did not work. So I replaced the icemaker. Take out the bucket. Take the 3 screws out that hold up the icemaker. In order to unplug the wiring harness, I had to also remove the metal mounting plate behind the icemaker to allow access to the plug-in on the left posterior side of the icemaker. Push in the raised part of the plug to allow for easy removal from the icemaker plug receptacle. Remember what color wire is on top for easy replacement later. Once the icemaker is free, take it out and install the bail from the old icemaker. The left side is the important one that engages the mechanism;the right side is just a tender or slave to the drive mechanism on the left to keep it in position. Plug the wiring harness back in--correct side up and be sure to fully engage the raised part of the plug to lock solidly in place.Remount the metal icemaker mounting plate with the 4 screws to the side walls of the freezer. Quarters are a little tight here on a side-by-side so put a paper or something under your work to catch screws that are easy to drop. A magnetized nut driver works best here. Then secure the icemaker to the mounting plate with the 3 original screws. Remount the bucket and lower the bail. Turn the electric and water back on. I had ice cubes in the bucket starting at about 2 hours.
very easy to replace. Longest part of the repair was vacumming out the bottom of the refridgerator which I recommend everyone to do.
Removed back cover. Removed screws holding it in the rear of freezer. Removed wires. Connected wires to new part, re installed.Very quick and easy. Ice maker running like new.(And part was shipped and received almost instantly)
Turned water off, Removed back cover. Removed the two electrical connections. Removed the two screws holding the valve. Pulled it out a little ways and disconnected the three water lines with pliers. used shallow pan to catch water. Part was an exact replacement installed in reverse order.
I replaced the fill valve by first unplugging the referigerator turning offf the water supply before removing the cover to gain access to the water valve. I removed to bracket from the old fill vale and installed on new valve. Reversed the above and it fixed the problem. I ordered the part from PartSelect for this twenty five year old referigerator and received it the next day. Fastest service ever! Right part too!
DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD!! I removed the back panel. Then removed the two screws holding the water inlet valve bracket. I then pulled the valve out enough to disconnect the two electrical connectors and the three water lines. Next, removed and replaced the valve onto the bracket. (Keep track of the little keeper spring) Reinstall in reverse order. (Use teflon tape on the water connections) Test and check for leaks before you replace the back panel. Cleaning the dirt out from under the unit would be a good idea while you have the back panel off.
It took me longer to move the refrigerator, vacuum the dust from the floor and rear and remove the back panel than to replace the part. Two screws held the part in place, two plugs and two hoses connected the part. All said and done in 35 minutes I have a refrigerator with a working icemaker and water in the door dispenser. Why did I ever delay so maney months in ordering this part to complete an easy repair job?
We followed directions and thank god my husbund is a electrician. He was able to reconnect the water-- make the fan work and replace the kick grille. Very happy everything worked.
After turning off the internal freezer and refrigerator control knobs, I disconnected the power cord. I then removed the lower back cover, the two hex screws holding the inlet valve bracket to the refrigerator frame, disconnected the incoming water line and the two plastic plastic water lines (going to the drinking water spigot and ice maker).I next marked the two quick-disconnect wiring plugs (for reference on re-assembly). The whole unit came out very easy. I then installed the old mounting bracket on the new water inlet valve, and did reverse installation. Piece of cake.
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