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PartSelect Number PS11750968
The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It will appear different but will still function the same as the original.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Shut off the water supply at the wall then using a 1/4" nut driver I removed the steel and cardboard backing plates from the rear of the refrigerator. Disconnect the main water supply hose and then the two water lines for the chilled water dispenser and ice maker. Remove the two screws on a support bracket which holds the valve in place.Reassembly in reverse order.The process was very easy and took no longer than 15 minutes and works just like new. This is a good time to do some thorough cleaning around the fan and coils to keep them working properly as well.
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Removed water inlet solenoids screws on base and pulled it out about 6 inches; removed 4 tubing nuts. Replaced unit with new and replaced tubing and base. This did not solve the problem so I ordered ice maker unit. Should of checked the inside of the ice maker ias the protective coating was pretty much history so I would ordered it first, and then ordered the inlet valve.
As per suggestion I replaced the water inlet valve.I pulled out the refrigerator and removed the cardboard panel. I removed the water inlet unit by removing two screws. I used pliers to take off the the tubes to the ice maker and the water. Then removed the inlet supply tube. Installation was the reverse process. However this did not fix the problem. After further research on another web site, I realized that the diagram that was furnished by PartSelect did not fit my refrigerator. What I really needed was the ice maker module. So I need to order the right one and I can't return the wrong part because I installed it. So I just left the lever in the ice maker in the up postion. the ice maker is still not working.
I removed the screws on the back of the refrigerator revealing the water valve, disconnected the water supply, removed the two outlet hoses and removed the bad valve. Replaced in the opposite manner.
Removed 7 hex screws holding carboard cover in place, verified water valve was inop. Ordered and recieved new part and installed. Diagnostic and actual repair under 1/2 hour.
On PartSelect.com this part is only associated with the icemaker. It is actually a dual valve... one for the ice maker and one for the water dispenser. Be sure to match the blue and brown colors of the valve housings to the same hose colors.The really scary part of this job was cleaning up behind and under the fridge, but also something that was long over due and the perfect opportunity to vacuum out the condenser coils.
Moved frig away from wall, unpluged and took off lower back panel. Disconnected water line and ice maker lines from water valve (after shutting water off). Removed 2 screws, New valve was exact replacement. With new valve in hand, I removed electrical connecters one at a time and placed them on new valve. Put new valve in place, inserted 2 screws and tightened, Connected water lines, checked for leaks, moved frig back in place, job complete. No more drips, worked perfect. Total time, about 30 min.
1. Moved the firdge out so I had room to get bhind it.2. Un-plugged the fridge so I didn't get electrocuted.3. disconnected the the water hose from the broken water inlet with adjustable wrench.4. Put hose in bucket to drain and moped up water from inlet valve with towel.5. removed the 2 scrwes with socket driver that holds inlet on fridge.6. reached in behind the inlet valve and unplugged the wires from the inlet valve (total of 2 plugs)7. pulled the inlet valve out of the back of the fridge.8. removed the bolt that holds the ground wire the metal plate that the inlet valve was connected to.9. removed the defective inlet valve from the metl plate and tossed the defect valves.10. put the metal plate on the new inlet valve.11. screwed on the ground wire to the metal plate from new valve.12. plugged in the 2 plugs back onto there proper locations on the inlet valve.13. put the assembly back into place in the back of the fridge and screwed in the remaining 2 screws to hold it in place. 14. Put plumbers tape around outside of inlet to reduce leaks.15. re-attached the hose and tightened it with the wrench.16. turned on the water from the wall and verified there were no leaks.17. Plugged in the fridge and tested that the water on the door worked. 18. Pushed the fridge back into place and the kids could once again enjoy water from the door of the fridge and in about 5 hours we had some ice again for our drinks.
I removed the back cover, disconnected the water line from the valve and unplugged the wires. I went to the Parts Select website and entered the info on the part (Plastic, Electrical) and brought up several beautiful pictures that immediately allowed me to identify and order the part without ANY part or model numbers! Wonderful! 3 days later, I installed the part in reverse order and the icemaker works like new again. Thanks for making it so easy!
I'm sharing this story because what appeared to be the fault of a defective water inlet valve, turned out to be something else. Maybe it will be helpful to you. Because the refrigerator and not been hooked up to water for several months, several knowledgeable people suggested I replace the solenoid valve, as its malfunction was the likely problem. I did so, without results. That is, still no water or ice. Then I remembered, the door with the dispensers had been removed and replaced at the beginning of the period in which there was no water hook-up. Looking for some other reason the dispensers did not work, it occurred to me it might be the wiring from the door to the body of the refrigerator, and so it was. When the door was reinstalled, they misaligned the four-wire plug, resulting in faulty connections. When I rotated the plug to get the colored wires to match up, everything worked as it should. Had I thought of that first, I could have saved $70 on a valve I did not need.
very easy. removed the old solenoid because it was cracked and spraying water all over the floor. installed the new part, turned on water supply and that was it!! water dispenser in the door works better, it fills a glass faster and the ice maker works better too.
Removed power and loosened two top screws on ice maker. Then I removed bottom screw and lifted of the top screws and pivoted ice maker to remove the power plug. I then swapped the white cover and the arm which turns off the ice maker when full from the old unit. I also had to trim some plastic off of the water trough where the hose goes into the ice maker. It was already scribed, so all I did was bend back and forth until the piece came out. I also replaced the inlet valve by shutting off the water supply and removing the three lines from it. I then removed the two mounting screws that held it in. I had to swap the old bracket onto the new valve. While i had the back of the refrigerator open, I cleaned the entire inside. It took longer to clean than to do the repair.
I have a water fiter sytem the ice maker is suppied from. I had to drain system to release pressure. I then removed the 2 screws supporting the valve. Removed valve as far as wires and supply lines would allow and disconnected. Replaced on new valve and reinstalled. This turned out not to be the only problem, ice had formed deep into the supply tube. Had to take a hair drier and defrost the tube until I could blow thru it. It is now making ice.
Disconnected two screws, disconected the water leads,took frame off and attached to new part and replaced. I had no problems.
Ordered a new pump (inlet valve) and installed and problem corrected.
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