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PartSelect Number PS11750968
The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It will appear different but will still function the same as the original.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I originally ordered the part because of globs of ice being around the icemaker. The icemaker then quit making ice altogether after a few weeks of removing the ice globs (so the spindle of the icemaker would rotate again). It came to me that there was now no water being supplied to the icemaker hence, "no ice". Decided to replace the water valve as the most likely culprit.Removed the bottom back panel behind the refrigerator. Turned off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator power plug. Unscrewed the hose connection to the valve and two small plastic feeder tubes going to icemaker and ice water dispenser in the front door. Removed spring clip securing the valve to its mounting flange. Pryed up the valve out of its mounting flange as it is mechanically held there by a pressure fit. Maneuvered the valve out and into my hand. Removed the two electrical connectors and draped them to the side. Reversed the entire procedure with the new exact replacment valve. Unfortunately, stlll no water was being supplied to the ice maker. Water to the dispenser in the door was still fine. I reasoned that the icemaker, not receiving any water from the fill valve, must be because the signal from the sensor (where ever that was located), must not be getting to the fill valve to tell it to open up and send water. Then a light bulb went off in my head. Where would that sensor be? Epiphany......How about the icemaker itself? Ordered the icemaker, replaced it and I now have ice again. Replacing the icemaker was a tougher job but that's another show. I'll report on that process under a separate repair story under the icemaker category.The replacement of the valve took only about two hours, mostly because I had to round up my drill, attach a nut driver accessory, move the refrigerator and vacuum out all the gunk and fuzzy stuff from behind the refrigerator (yuck). Actual valve replacement only took about 1/2 an hour what with having to remove a put back a dozen or so machine screws on the back panel.
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The line going from the ice maker fill valve ruptured and leaked water on the floor. The outlet fitting for the ice maker water inside the freezer was plugged with ice which caused the pressure to build up in the line and rupture it. The discharge tube inside was full of ice because the ice maker fill valve was old and was leaking ever so slightly. This allowed water to exit into the discharge tube gradually and build up ice to the point of blocking the discharge tube.
I determined that the ice maker was not getting any water. There was only one possibilty, the water inlet assembly. I removed the cover on the bottom back side of the fridge, then removed two screws, three water connections by hand, two electrical connections, reversed everything that I had previously done and in about twenty minutes the ice maker had water.
Shut water off at source, disconnect electrical supply at wall, remove screws retaining cardboard dust cover, and remove cover. Removed water supply line to control valve, remove two screws retaining unit to frame of refrigerator, and gently pull out unit. Remove two water lines, making sure to note where each line was connected to unit. Remove two electrical connectors, making sure to note where each line was connected, remove old valve. Noting where mounting bracket is positioned, remove old mounting bracket from valve, and reinstall bracket on new valve the same way. Coat threads lightly on new valve with vaseline, reinstall valve in reverse order, making sure not to over-tighten water connections. Note, before installing dust cover, reconnect wall power, and turn on water and inspect for leaks, at connections. Tighten leaking connections very slightly until leak stops. Reinstall dust cover, and carefully return refrigerator to it's original location.
Repair man wanted $240.00 to fix this problem. I simply removed panel from bottom of back of refrigerator and disconnected two screws and the water and the part was free reconnected water and the two screws and done deal with a $40.00 part.
1. Unplugged the power cord 2. Took back cover off 3. Disconnected the wires to the valve 4. Disconnected the water plastic lines 5. Took the water valve out by removing (2) screws that hold it to the frame. 6. Installed the new water valve and folled the steps backwards. Working great and making a lot of ice !!!
I pulled the refrigerator out, and turned off the water valve at the wall. I then removed 3 screws at the bottom of the back panel so I could access the water inlet value. I compared the new part with the part on my refrigerator to make sure they were the same. They were.Using a pair of adjustable pliers, and placing a small pan under it to catch the water in the line, I loosened and removed the water line.I then removed the wires connected to the water inlet valve, noting how they were connected. I then removed the 2 screws holding the water inlet valve in place, and removed the old inlet valve.I put the new inlet valve in place, and making sure to hook up the ground wire, replaced the 2 screws to hold the inlet valve in place. I reconnected the wires, and then the water line.I turned the water supply on at the wall and checked for leaks. I then tried the water dispenser and it now worked perfectly. I tried it a few more times and then checked again for water leaks.Replaced the 3 screw holding the back cover on, and pushed the refrigerator back into place.Mission accomplished, and saving at least $75!
Took the rear bottom panel loose , the ice maker and water dipenser valve is in the right corner. Turn off water line to the refrigerator , and also unplug the electric from the outlet. It is easier to take the ground wire loose from the valve bracket now , before taking valve out of the bracket. take the two water lines that run to the door and the ice maker loose, then remove the main inlet line. Once you have the water lines off, then you can remove both electrical plugs from the electric coils. The water lines that run to the door and the ice maker cant be confused , because they are two different sizes , so they will only fit the correct side. The electrical plugs are pretty simple as well as, the wires are the same color as the coils, so its fairly easy to see which one goes where. The replacement process is pretty self-explanitary , just reverse the order. Just as a hint of advice , have a sponge or mop ready to clean up the water that comes out of the lines when you remove them. I also changed the drum wheel in the front of the ice bin, this process is not easy if you let the blades and spacers fall apart , as they have to pretty much have to be in correct order , or your ice bin will not crush ice , and you could possibly bust the bin into pieces. The process is not really hard , just pay close attention to what is coming off from where!!! There are two bolt on the bottom of the front cover , take them loose and pull the cover forward from the bottom, then lift a little , should come off. Then the metal front cover should be exposed, ther are two bolts in it as well , remove them , and the front should be loose , this is when you hold the auger and keep an eye on the blades. There is also a nut , right in the center of the wheel you have to take loose , hold the auger then take the nut loose with a 1/2 in. wrench. Once you remove the nut the drum pulls right off the auger. When going back together , make sure the ice crusher blades all line up correctly , as the blades wont work at all . They have to slide back into the blade pivot bracket (slot made into the plastic bucket front). As I said before , be sure and pay close attention , and this process will go easily. The drum is marked front side , or this side out, be sure its installed correctly , as the ice will not feed right. The first cycle of the ice maker making ice will probably be only 1 or 2 cubes , but the second time around you will have a full set of 8 , the water lines get air in them while they are unhooked so you wont get a full cycle the first time.
For the icemaker, I removed the ice tray and loosesned the two attaching screws(1/4"). I removed the lower bracket and then removed the ice dispenser motor cover below the ice maker. This made it easier to remove the wiring harness. After removing the icemaker from the refrigerator, I swapped out the wiring harness and ice detector bracket (wire bail that swings). Hooked things back up and went on to the water valve. All in all about 15 minutes and pretty easy.For the ice valve, you must turn off the water supply, disconnect the power plug and move the refrigerator away from the wall. (Now's a good time to clean out under and behind the unit!) Remove the valve from the base with the 1/4" nut driver. Remove the inlet line(standard hose fitting).Have a sponge handy. Remove and replace the new valve in the bracket by popping the clip off and on the new one. Replace one outlet line and electrical connection at a time (easier to keep track of). Replace unit on base and check for leaks before replacing refrigerator. Other than cleaning, the task took about 20 min. and was simple. The cleaning, on the other hand...
First I turned the water off behind the refrigerator....took the ice maker inlet valve off, put on the new one. As simple as that & it is working beautifully....not only am I a woman but 55 yrs. young too!With the right part & right tools NOTHING is impossible & I saved myself a repair persons fee!!!
valved water offremoved back panels from refrigeratordisconnected water supply line from solenoiddisconneceted outlet to ice makerdisconneceted outlet to water for the doorremoved solenoid valvereplaced water line to the ice makerinstalled new solenoid and reconnected water lines. Valved water on and pressure tested and put back panels back on. This is a very easy job and if you live in Tennessee your valve will eventually stop up. The first sign will be smaller ice cubes and then no ice cubes.
Pulled out the fridge fro the wall, unpluged it, turned off the water supply to the house, disconnected the water line to the part, installed new part and re-attached the wires and ground, turned on the water - no leaks, plugged in the fridge - ice maker begand to fill and has continued to work.Easy as pie. Will contact you again if I have other appliance problems.Paul M, Seattle WA
Somebody else wrote a really good description of how to repair, he should write manuals! So, read his..I will just add, most of us have phones that take pictures, so I took pictures and video before I started, so then I could remember how everything went back together.
Tried to repair existing valve which I have succesfully done many times by cleaning and removing grit from internal neoprene parts until new parts received. Was not successful. New valve worked perfectly. this is only 2nd repair needed on this ref. since new. 1st was defrost timer. Ice maker hasn't missed a lick since new.
Removed water inlet solenoids screws on base and pulled it out about 6 inches; removed 4 tubing nuts. Replaced unit with new and replaced tubing and base. This did not solve the problem so I ordered ice maker unit. Should of checked the inside of the ice maker ias the protective coating was pretty much history so I would ordered it first, and then ordered the inlet valve.
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