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PartSelect Number PS11748838
This board controls the operation of the unit.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The refrigerator light went out and a bulb replacement did not correct. Also the temperature indicators were not on. There was a clicking noise each time the door was opened, coming from the back lower corner of the refrigerator. The repair man said it would be $500+ to fix! We found the board on this website. Consult the manual for where this is located, but on my model it was on the refrigerator side, in the back on the floor level. In a white plastic box the size of the board +. It is located on the lower left on the side of the cabinet. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall, remove the back cardboard cover. Remove the box, and the board comes out, open the box, inside there are 3 connections and a holding clip. Replace the board and put it back in. The put the box back in to the refrigerator. We kept the old one for a couple of days because the components had been changed since our refrigerator was made, but it functions exactly the same. Piece of cake! Saved $400!
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The lights in the refrigerator were flickering when the door wass opened and a chattering noise was coming from the refrigerator.Traced the noise back to the Electronic control Board. Removed the ECB and inspected it. The solder at the back of the board was burnt in one place.Ordered a new ECB. The three connectors on the board were identical to the old board, but the board had different components to my old board. The components match was about 60%.I still installed the new board. I have been monitoring it for two days, all is working well.
I possibly could have done the entire repair with the last part used but who knows...Anyways the fridge was not getting cold and the passage that blows cold air from the freezer was clogging with ice as was the cold air intake spot at the bottom of the freezer coils...this problem behan 3 months ago...I replaced the thermostat first...didnt work...second, a new burner element....also did not work and finally what worked was a new control board at the back of the fridge...also the lights in the fridge went out 3 years ago and now they are back on after the new board was installed...hope this saves someone else some time and frustration.
First, I unplugged the refrigerator. Then, I removed the cardboard cover from the rear of the fridge, using a 1/4" nut driver, removed the white plastic box on the rear left side (this box houses the control board), using the same 1/4" nut driver. I then replaced the control board, using no tools, plugged the fridge back in and checked operation. All ok and working great!! By the way, while the old control board is out of the way, this is the perfect time to vacuum out all of that dust, lint, etc. that will be found on the black condenser coil, located just behind the compressor and control board. This coil extends from the rear to the front of the refrigerator. The front section of the coil can be accessed by removing the white front panel just above the floor. Again, no tools needed. Easy from beginning to end!!
Local appliance repair wanted $450 !I bought the control board for $87, pulled the fridge out, removed cardboard cover at lower back of fridge. There was a white plastic box with 3 electrical bundles leading in to it. Used the nutdriver to remove 2 nuts to remove plastic box, open box, disconnect 3 different electric bundles from old control panel and then snapped them in to new control panel. Reinstall box. Done!
I took the bottom back panel off the fridge to see if there was a fuse or a reset button. I discovered that there was a circuit board located inside a small 4" white plastic box. I opened the box and removed the circuit board, and saw what I think were burn marks on the board. I ordered the new board, got it in 2 days, replaced the old board, and everything work great!I did notice a lot of dust and pet hair build-up under the fridge and I think that may have caused the problem due to something overheating.
Replaced the main board. Everything is working correctly now. The repair man quoted $700.00 for the repairs. I bought the board for $104.00 shipping and all. I read all the other share repairs, none had my exact problem, but they did help. Thanks.....
While the frig door was open, I traced the clicking noise to the white plactic box. I removed the 2 screws attaching box to side of frig. Once open I could tell that that was where the noise was coming from. Ordered a new control board Friday during lunch. It was delivered Saturday morning. It took about 15 minutes to install new board. Frig is working great now.
After rolling the unit out away from the wall and unpluging the unit, I removed the cover from the back lower area of the unit. The card is located inside a white plastic box located in the right rear area of the unit. The cover snaps on and off. With the cover off, the board snaps out, unplug a few wiring harness's from the old card and plug in the new card and re-assemble. It was that easy. I am a electrician, although, I believe any competent person could complete this task.
removed cardboard cover on back of refrig. and replaced pc board. replaced cover. problem solved.also had a bad lamp socket in microwave. removed bottom plate. replaced socket. replaced bottom plate. problem solved.
Unscrewed the cardboard section of the back of the refrigerator (the bottom section). Unscrewed the two screws that held the white box on the left side. Replaced the PCB. Put everything back together.
Pulled refrigerator from wall , removed cardboard cover over motor & condenser, removed plastic box from refrig frame, by removing two screws,umplugged three sets of wires from board & removed the electronic control board. Replaced by reversing the above.
First I unplugged the power cord to the refrigerator then I removed the cardboard cover on the rear bottom of the refrigerator, then I removed the white box on the left hand side, opened it and unplugged the three wiring harness in it and removed control board. Installed the new contol board reconnect the wirng harness closed the white box, plugged the refrigerator back in, everything is working perfect now.
I called the service man to see what it would cost to repair the refrigerator. He said the board was $230.00 plus service call. I said I could buy the board for less than $100.00. He could not believe it. I got on line and showed him the cost of the board. I told him I would fix it myself. He said go for it. I removed the cardboard cover on the back-bottom of refrigerator. Removed two screws that hold the white plastic box on left hand side of refrigerator. Remove box, take off cover and remove the three wiring plugs. Removed old board and replaced with new board. Reinstalled wiring plugs, cover and mount the box back on the frig and you are good to go.
pulled out the control board, googled the number, called partselect, determined what was needed with partselect assistance, ordered on line, part arrived, was fitted and refrigerator was back on line - so easy, a caveman could do it.
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