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PartSelect Number PS11748729
This part includes the black handle, latch and 2 switches. This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dishwasher from operating when the door is open.
NOTE: White handle is no longer available.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Turn off the DW power (pull the fuse or turn off the circuit breaker) Open the dishwasher door. Remove the torx screws around the periphery of the door inner panel. Lift up the inner panel far enough to get at the door latch. Lift out the entire door latch assembly. There are two wiring connectors attached to microswitches on the latch assemby. Remove the connectors. The connectors were pretty tight, so I needed pliers to pull the connectors off the switches. Discard the old latch. Get the new latch, and plug in the connectors (keep track of which wires go on which side). Lay the latch down in the door so it lines up with the mounting holes. Lay the cover back down, start each of the torx screws into their threaded holes, then tighten them all. Don't over tighten. Turn power back on. Job done. It almost takes as long to type it up as it does to make the repair.
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Repair was fairly easy. There are 11 screws You have to remove then simply unplug the electrical connection from the door latch/switch and plug in the new one line up the screw holes tighten them down and your in business.
1) Turned off the power2) I removed the screws on the plastic door.3) The latch/handle assembly was right there.4) I noticed that white and black wires fed each side. I noted which side did the black feed and the white feed.5) I took a pair of pliers and held the white wire brackets and pulled the metal parts off. This is where the time took. It took about 2 minutes per side.6) I then slid the new metal parts in the white brackets.7) I screwed it back.8) Turned it back on!9) Works great
First I removed the torx screws halding the inner door panel on. I then seperated the door panel from the door and removed the latch assembly and disconnected the switches from the latch. After installing the switches on the new latch I replaced it between door and inner panel. Finally I replaced the torx screws and was finished.
This repair was really three separate easy repairs.The top rack docking station is really simple -- pop the old one off and snap the new one on.The impeller is easy IF you have the right Torx screwdriver. You have to take a few layers of water handling plastic parts off to get the the impeller, but it's all pretty easy. I did strep a couple of Torx bits when I put one of the parts back on, but I've had this apart at least three times and they held up the first few times. I'll buy some new screws next time.There are a few things to keep in mind when changing the door latch and control panel. First, change the latch as soon as it breaks, instead of waiting for it to break more and destroy the control panel in the meantime. I'd have save $60 and most of the work if I hadn't put it off. Second, turn off the power. Changing the panel requires removing and replacing some wires, and it would be EASY to contact wires that you probably don't want to. A nutdriver makes quick work of everything that the Torx doesn't fit, and the remove/replace is pretty easy. Be attentive when refitting the ribbon cable for the control panel - if you're not familiar with this kind of connector you need to figure out the funky slidelock mechanism of the shell. It's easy though.All the parts fit perfectly, and appear to be factory exact replacements. It works fine now, too.
1 - Unscrew the back of the dishwasher with a hex-type driver. The latch assembly will be resting inside the outer door assembly. Make sure power is turned off to the washer - there are a couple of "hot" wires that will attach to the latch assembly.2 - Unplug the wires from the old latch and plug into new latch assembly.3 - Place the latch assembly back in place and re-attach the two door pieces together.4 - Turn power back on at the breaker.5 - Load dishwasher with the stuff that's been sitting in your sink.6 - Gloat to spouse/significant other that you just saved $100 by fixing it yourself. Just a quick note of thanks for shipping the replacement handle for my Maytag dishwasher. Service was superquick and I was able to save big bucks (no service call). I called on Saturday evening and the part was here on Tuesday. The young lady who helped me was awesome and a Pens fan to boot. I seldom send these types of emails but my experience was worth sharing.
1. Turned of Power via circuit breaker2. Opened Dishwasher3. Removed back of door (11) hex screws with electric driver4. Removed latch assembly5. Pried contacts from switches6. One switch was more difficult to pry loose than the other7. You will probably need a plier8. Switch or connector may break but latch assembly comes with switches, so you just need to be careful not to break the connectors 8 Plugged connectors into new switches on latch assembly9. Replaced latch assembly10. Replaced door with (11) hex screws - two top screws hold assembly in place11. Turned on circuit breaker and tested machine12. FinishedComments: This latch assembly was better constructed than the original and I expect it to last the life of the machine. If one of the switches wasn't so difficult to pry loose, then the repair would have taken ten minutes less to repair. Well worth the effort. Repair time was probably 20-30 minutes.
After checking repair places who wanted $140-$200 to repair the handle (most of it labor and transportation of course) I checked this website and read the do it your self testimonials the first one being wendy from florida and figured if she could do it so could I. . . Wasn't quite as confident as her so found a handy person (charged me $30). It was a "piece of cake" -- remove the 11 screws (allen screwdriver), unclip the wires to the handle (pliers), clip in the new one, replace the screws. I could have done it myself. Took 15 minutes.
I should have done this 2 years ago when the door latch had broken. I disconnected the power tot he dish washer then I took my electric drill and used a torx bit to remove all scres holding the front panel. This took about 2 minutes. After that i removed the door latch (poped right out as it was held by the torx screws). I disconnected the switches on the old latch and reconnectted them on the new latch in th esame manner. replaced the screws and was ready to go after reapplying power to the unit. I did get the Left and the right basket parts - this was unnecessary as now i have two complete baskets. I reading some of the reviews which suggested that you need two parts BUT YOU JUST NEED ONE. BUY JUST ONE AS THEY ARE COMPLETE SETS. Good luck
I had two problems with the dishwasher. The latch handle was broken and a line crack developed on the control panel just above the handle area.1. Ordered the Latch Handle (LATCH ASSY (BLACK) MA) (Series 10); Part # PS1559543 from PartSelect. (Maytag’s part number is 99003347). PS1559543 received from PartSelect includes the latch, latch handle, and two switches.2. Disconnected power to dishwasher. (I put the washer on timer mode; the control panel lighted up; turned off power supply at the circuit breakers box; control panel light was off; confirming that power was cut).3. Opened the door, removed the torx T-20 screws from the inner panel (I used a cordless drill and one of the star shaped screw tip from a cheap Craftmans screw tips set)4. The inner panel slid down down enough to expose the latch assembly. Since the latch assembly was held in place by the two of the screws removed, it was now only attached to two sets of wires through the switches on both sides of the latch assembly.5. The next thing to do was to connecting the wires to the new latch assembly. I chose to use the switches on the old latch assembly. There were plastic hooks holding them in place. The switches readily slid out by slightly push back the hooks. There is a little knob on the switch, and had to be pushed back to slide into the new latch assemble.6. To fix the line crack, I used a toothpick to apply plastic glue on both sides of the crack. Then lined up the latch assembly with the control panel and the dishwasher’s inner internal panel, put back the two top middle two torx T-20 screw to hold them in place. Excess glue was wiped off with paper towel wet with isopropyl alcohol. This saved me the expense of ~$60 for a new control panel. Don’t use crazy glue, it will discolor the plastic.7. Put back the screws at four corners, then the rest. I set the clutch of the cordless drill at 2 so that the screws were not over tightened.8. Let the glue dried overnight. The crack was fixed, the latch assembly works like when the dishwasher was new.
I learned everything I know about the procedure from this site. but here it goes:Turn off the power at the breaker! If you are like me, you will forget until you are trying to change out the wires and then ZZZTT! you will jump and say somehting your kids should not hear. (like I did). After forgetting to turn off the power, I unscrewed torx-head screws (its a T-20 driver if you need to buy it --T is for torx and 20 is the size) around inside edge of door to remove the inside door panel. Take care when opening the panel because some wires are still attached to it. Removed old latch assembly by unplugging it. Normally, the black and white wires would unclip from the assembly, but in my dishwasher, the "quick release" wire connectors going to the latch assembly were not coming apart. The wire connectors themselves were attached to two small switches on the latch body, so I just took the switches and wires off the latch assembly by gently prying the 2 retaining clips away from the switch and they come right off, with the wires still attached. I then removed the switches from the new latch assembly, so I could plug it in to the old wires/switches dangling from my dishwasher. Then I got a mild shock, and sent the kids out of the room.I was pretty sure there was nothing wrong with those switches--it was pretty obvious that my problem was mechanical, but I saved them just in case. The latch handle itself had broken on one side. Also, upon opening the panel, I also discovered that the latch assembly was no longer securely attached to the control console--the tiny plastic mounts (about 1/16th of an inch wide) that held the latch assembly at the bottom were broken. Surprise surprise.I took the advice of a poster here to use JB weld to secure the new latch assembly to the console where the flimsy plastic mounts had been. (instead of spending $80 for a new control panel just to get new flimsy mounts). The latch assembly went right into the old spot. Use a hand driver or set your drill on a low clutch setting so as not to strip the screws going back in--remember, its plastic! The biggest investment here is time--unless you don't have the torx driver. On a related note, this Maytag is only about 3 years old and already I have had 2 broken rollers on the upper rack and now the latch. I went to the hardware store and bought a couple of 99-cent cabinet knobs that were approximately the same size as the rollers I had to replace. I ground the knobs down to fit in the slide, and then screwed the knobs onto the rack. It took some machining, but it sure beats the $35 (each side!) for the replacement roller mechanism!Have a great day and I hope this helps someone!
As many newer appliances are, component replacement can be very easy. Unplugged the unit since I was working directly with the main electrical control unit. Removed the torx screws to access the interior door. It was then simple replacement by removing set screws for the panel. Unplug the old panel and plug in and install the new one. Only problem I had was the Latch Handle was back ordered and took about a month to get, not PartsSelect.com's fault. Handle replacement took about 5 minutes when I got it. Now dishwasher is as good as new and works perfectly!
This is a simple repair once you conquer the problem of removing the wire clips from the old switches. And conquer I did. All you need are regular and needle nose pliers, and a heavy pot or pan. Start by turning the power off and then remove the screws holding the inner door. Carefully lay the inner door to one side of the outer door and place a heavy pot or pan on the outer door to hold it down. The handle assembly is held on with screws removed from the inner door, so you can now lift it out. Check that there are no small broken pieces anywhere on the door. Use a marker to mark Right and Left on each clip.Then remove each old switch from the old handle assembly by carefully bending the two small clips on each switch back to release it and wiggle it free with the wire clip still attached. The wire clip is actually a one piece plastic cover. Then, do this: grip the old switch with the regular pliers and then slide the unopened point of the needle nose pliers between the switch and the wire clip; there is plenty of room. This will put sufficient pressure on the wire clip to slide it from the switch. Do not grip the wire clip with pliers, it will break. Once off, put the wire clips on the new switches and install the handle. Reinstall the inner door and test the handle. That should do it. A leisurely 20 minute or so repair job.
Took off broken handle and replaced it with the new one.
Turned off the power at the panel board. Took off the front panel. (The screws are torque screws, so you need that kind of driver). Removed the two electric leads. They are just connector type leads going to the switches. Pluged the leads onto the correct sides of the new latch assembly and reversed the procedure to put the panel back in place.
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