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PartSelect Number PS11748729
This part includes the black handle, latch and 2 switches. This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dishwasher from operating when the door is open.
NOTE: White handle is no longer available.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Disconnect the power,open panel and remove screws with the exception of the two bottom ones. This allows the panel cover to be opened far enough to pull latch assembly clear.Remove electrical contacts (2) and put defective unit aside. Connect new latch unit to both wire saddles,line up unit with proper holes and install two screws. Once fixed in place,install all other screws and switch power back on.Do a short test run to check for any leaks
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The repair is simple open the door and remove the perimeter screws and lift the door panel up. Be careful of attached wires. The handle only requires that you remove two electrical connectors and reconnect to the new latch handle and realign it with the screw holes in the door panel. The seals are not as easy to change they are attached with spring clips that I had to snipe through to get the old seals off. The new seals did not come with new spring clips, so I flattened the clips and reused them, they did not hold as tight, but seemed to work. Then just reinstall the panel.
Open door and remove all screws to remove front panel. Seperate front panel from door. Remove cover of control box. Disconect ribbon cable that connects control panel to control box. Disconnect wires attached to the switches on the latch handle. Remove all screws attaching panel control to front panel. Remove control panel and latch handle assemblies. Replaced with new parts making sure gasket and seal are in place for the vent. Assemble in reverse order. Cost of parts about $60. Time to repair less than 30 min.
A common theme you'll see thoughout the repair stories; 1. many broken handles at the hinge2. TURN THE POWER OFF. This assembly comes with the microswitches (which is not a bad idea to replace since they are electromechanical and will eventually fail). My only recommendation is to buy a couple of these handle assemblies because they WILL fail. I'm on my 3rd!
Received the entire latch/switch assembly rather than just the plastic latch handle. This was a pleasant surprise, especially for the price. The latch assembly was clearly a better designed and more robust assembly than the original. Removed the inside panel of the door by removing the dozen or so TORX screws. Pulled the inside panel away from the outside door panel (gently, cables attached) to gain access to the latch/switch assembly. A second set of hands was helpful for this and some following steps. At that point the latch assembly was free mechanically from the door, but there were two wiring harnesses attached to the latch assembly via plug connectors to the two microswitches on the latch assembly. It looked like it was going to be easy to unplug the harness from the switches, but I could not do it. Never did figure out how to do it. Removed the two microswitches (with harnesses attached) from the 'old' latch assembly by pulling back the plastic tab that holds each switch in place. At that point the rest of the latch assembly was completely free from the machine. Removed the two microswitches from the 'new' latch assembly using the same method as above. This step requires care as the plastic parts and switches can be damaged. Put in place the two 'old' microswitches with wiring harnesses attached on each side of the 'new' latch assembly. These snap in place. This requires care, as above, and the second set of hands to hold away the inside door panel. Put the latch/switch assembly in place in the door, and put the inside door panel back in place. Re-installed the TORX screws holding the inside door panel - and latch assembly - to the door. I kept the 'new' microswitches because one day the 'old' switches may fail. If that happens and I want to replace the microswitches, I still don't know how I will remove the switches from the wiring harness. I guess I'll figure that out if the time comes. Except for the difficulties disconnecting the microswitches from the harnesses, this was an easy and straightforward job. The latching of the door seems more positive, now, and the machine is working fine.
removed the inside cover to the door,7 screws, removed the latch assembly, replaced with new parts, back in service.
Unplug the power cable. Remove 11 torx fasteners holding the inner door panel. Remove two sets of wires from old opener and install the new door opener assembly. Replace all the screws. About 10 minutes with a power driver.
Followed the suggestions on PartSelect - took off the screws on the door; removed 2 screws on the assembly that held it to the door; disconnected switches (hardest part) - they seem to fuse on(or rust) from the moisture; took the new (much sturdier part than original) assembly and plugged in the switches; set in place; replaced the 2 screws, replaced the screws holding the door panel - Complete - works great! Here we thought we would have to get a new dishwasher!!!!
opened door and unscrewed screws. Once we got that off we needed to shut off the power which was the hardest part as my husband had to go to the main box and flip breakers till figured out which one it was. With help holding parts and wires so we didn't have to discoonect everything it was really easy to just reconnect the new parts, place in the latch and screw the panel back in. Everything fit like a charm and when we turned it on it worked. So we are very happy.
I originally ordered the incorrect piece via the website, however when calling PartSelect to return the part they informed me that they could help me find the correct piece which they did. The correct piece arrived within 4 days. It was easy to install. The part works well. I'm very happy with the customer service.
Disconnect power, remove inside cover from door, disconnect e-plugs from latch assy., remove latch assy., open cover of black box retaining printed circuit board, unplug e-connections from circuit board, remove Panel Control and replace with new panel, reconnect e-connections to circuit board, replace cover on black box, snap in new latch assy. and connect the two e-plugs to it, put inside door cover back on. Power up dishwasher and test its functions. Done.PS: It wasn't really nessesary to replace the control panel (a $72.00) item, those plastic snap on's are not needed to secure the latch assy. They just hold it in place unil you put the screws back in which secure the inside door cover.
Removed 11 T20 Torx head screws. Removed and replaced latch. Removed and replaced door seal and foam insulation strip - no additional tools required. Super easy to repair and didn't leak a drop afterwards.
I was extreemly pleased with the replacement handle unit. The original unit had a plastic pivot points - the replacement part replaced these points with metal rods. The pivot points on the old unit were the points of failure.The repair should have been done with a "star" head. Not having this, I was able to use a hex wrench instead.The repair time was less than 10 minutes, most of that time removing and replacing the star head screws. If you have removed the old part, you have essentially completed the repair.The biggest problem was identifying the proper handle unit. There are two very similar. Measure the distance between the mount holes in the unit and refer to the grid in the picture. The grid on your site was extreemly helpfull given the lack of part numbers printed on the Maytag OEM parts.
Pretty easy job. You need torx tips for your screwdriver. An electric screwdriver got all 8 or 9 screws out of the door panel in about 60 seconds, separated inner door from outer door, pulled out handle assembly & disconnected wires, attached wires to new assembly, screwed it all back together. Be prepared... the handle will break again. It's just a bad design by Maytag. This Maytag model is so bad the company discontinued it. Beware of the control panel getting corroded from steam & failing. If replacing this panel, make sure you seal where the cable goes into the touchpad with some kind of waterproof glue, nail polish remover, or sealing tape so it doesn't happen again.
I unscrewed the inner door panel and the old latch assembly came out. I went to the circuit breaker and cut off power to the DW. Then I unplugged the old latch assembly and plugged the new one in. There were some springy metal pieces that had to be pushed back to get the old plug off and the new one on. After that it was just a matter of aligning the holes of the latch assembly with the holes for the screws and replacing all the screw holding the door panel, and tightening them up.
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