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PartSelect Number PS11748729
This part includes the black handle, latch and 2 switches. This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dishwasher from operating when the door is open.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1 - Unscrew the back of the dishwasher with a hex-type driver. The latch assembly will be resting inside the outer door assembly. Make sure power is turned off to the washer - there are a couple of "hot" wires that will attach to the latch assembly.2 - Unplug the wires from the old latch and plug into new latch assembly.3 - Place the latch assembly back in place and re-attach the two door pieces together.4 - Turn power back on at the breaker.5 - Load dishwasher with the stuff that's been sitting in your sink.6 - Gloat to spouse/significant other that you just saved $100 by fixing it yourself. Just a quick note of thanks for shipping the replacement handle for my Maytag dishwasher. Service was superquick and I was able to save big bucks (no service call). I called on Saturday evening and the part was here on Tuesday. The young lady who helped me was awesome and a Pens fan to boot. I seldom send these types of emails but my experience was worth sharing.
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1. Turned of Power via circuit breaker2. Opened Dishwasher3. Removed back of door (11) hex screws with electric driver4. Removed latch assembly5. Pried contacts from switches6. One switch was more difficult to pry loose than the other7. You will probably need a plier8. Switch or connector may break but latch assembly comes with switches, so you just need to be careful not to break the connectors 8 Plugged connectors into new switches on latch assembly9. Replaced latch assembly10. Replaced door with (11) hex screws - two top screws hold assembly in place11. Turned on circuit breaker and tested machine12. FinishedComments: This latch assembly was better constructed than the original and I expect it to last the life of the machine. If one of the switches wasn't so difficult to pry loose, then the repair would have taken ten minutes less to repair. Well worth the effort. Repair time was probably 20-30 minutes.
After checking repair places who wanted $140-$200 to repair the handle (most of it labor and transportation of course) I checked this website and read the do it your self testimonials the first one being wendy from florida and figured if she could do it so could I. . . Wasn't quite as confident as her so found a handy person (charged me $30). It was a "piece of cake" -- remove the 11 screws (allen screwdriver), unclip the wires to the handle (pliers), clip in the new one, replace the screws. I could have done it myself. Took 15 minutes.
I should have done this 2 years ago when the door latch had broken. I disconnected the power tot he dish washer then I took my electric drill and used a torx bit to remove all scres holding the front panel. This took about 2 minutes. After that i removed the door latch (poped right out as it was held by the torx screws). I disconnected the switches on the old latch and reconnectted them on the new latch in th esame manner. replaced the screws and was ready to go after reapplying power to the unit. I did get the Left and the right basket parts - this was unnecessary as now i have two complete baskets. I reading some of the reviews which suggested that you need two parts BUT YOU JUST NEED ONE. BUY JUST ONE AS THEY ARE COMPLETE SETS. Good luck
I had two problems with the dishwasher. The latch handle was broken and a line crack developed on the control panel just above the handle area.1. Ordered the Latch Handle (LATCH ASSY (BLACK) MA) (Series 10); Part # PS1559543 from PartSelect. (Maytag’s part number is 99003347). PS1559543 received from PartSelect includes the latch, latch handle, and two switches.2. Disconnected power to dishwasher. (I put the washer on timer mode; the control panel lighted up; turned off power supply at the circuit breakers box; control panel light was off; confirming that power was cut).3. Opened the door, removed the torx T-20 screws from the inner panel (I used a cordless drill and one of the star shaped screw tip from a cheap Craftmans screw tips set)4. The inner panel slid down down enough to expose the latch assembly. Since the latch assembly was held in place by the two of the screws removed, it was now only attached to two sets of wires through the switches on both sides of the latch assembly.5. The next thing to do was to connecting the wires to the new latch assembly. I chose to use the switches on the old latch assembly. There were plastic hooks holding them in place. The switches readily slid out by slightly push back the hooks. There is a little knob on the switch, and had to be pushed back to slide into the new latch assemble.6. To fix the line crack, I used a toothpick to apply plastic glue on both sides of the crack. Then lined up the latch assembly with the control panel and the dishwasher’s inner internal panel, put back the two top middle two torx T-20 screw to hold them in place. Excess glue was wiped off with paper towel wet with isopropyl alcohol. This saved me the expense of ~$60 for a new control panel. Don’t use crazy glue, it will discolor the plastic.7. Put back the screws at four corners, then the rest. I set the clutch of the cordless drill at 2 so that the screws were not over tightened.8. Let the glue dried overnight. The crack was fixed, the latch assembly works like when the dishwasher was new.
I learned everything I know about the procedure from this site. but here it goes:Turn off the power at the breaker! If you are like me, you will forget until you are trying to change out the wires and then ZZZTT! you will jump and say somehting your kids should not hear. (like I did). After forgetting to turn off the power, I unscrewed torx-head screws (its a T-20 driver if you need to buy it --T is for torx and 20 is the size) around inside edge of door to remove the inside door panel. Take care when opening the panel because some wires are still attached to it. Removed old latch assembly by unplugging it. Normally, the black and white wires would unclip from the assembly, but in my dishwasher, the "quick release" wire connectors going to the latch assembly were not coming apart. The wire connectors themselves were attached to two small switches on the latch body, so I just took the switches and wires off the latch assembly by gently prying the 2 retaining clips away from the switch and they come right off, with the wires still attached. I then removed the switches from the new latch assembly, so I could plug it in to the old wires/switches dangling from my dishwasher. Then I got a mild shock, and sent the kids out of the room.I was pretty sure there was nothing wrong with those switches--it was pretty obvious that my problem was mechanical, but I saved them just in case. The latch handle itself had broken on one side. Also, upon opening the panel, I also discovered that the latch assembly was no longer securely attached to the control console--the tiny plastic mounts (about 1/16th of an inch wide) that held the latch assembly at the bottom were broken. Surprise surprise.I took the advice of a poster here to use JB weld to secure the new latch assembly to the console where the flimsy plastic mounts had been. (instead of spending $80 for a new control panel just to get new flimsy mounts). The latch assembly went right into the old spot. Use a hand driver or set your drill on a low clutch setting so as not to strip the screws going back in--remember, its plastic! The biggest investment here is time--unless you don't have the torx driver. On a related note, this Maytag is only about 3 years old and already I have had 2 broken rollers on the upper rack and now the latch. I went to the hardware store and bought a couple of 99-cent cabinet knobs that were approximately the same size as the rollers I had to replace. I ground the knobs down to fit in the slide, and then screwed the knobs onto the rack. It took some machining, but it sure beats the $35 (each side!) for the replacement roller mechanism!Have a great day and I hope this helps someone!
As many newer appliances are, component replacement can be very easy. Unplugged the unit since I was working directly with the main electrical control unit. Removed the torx screws to access the interior door. It was then simple replacement by removing set screws for the panel. Unplug the old panel and plug in and install the new one. Only problem I had was the Latch Handle was back ordered and took about a month to get, not PartsSelect.com's fault. Handle replacement took about 5 minutes when I got it. Now dishwasher is as good as new and works perfectly!
Took off broken handle and replaced it with the new one.
Turned off the power at the panel board. Took off the front panel. (The screws are torque screws, so you need that kind of driver). Removed the two electric leads. They are just connector type leads going to the switches. Pluged the leads onto the correct sides of the new latch assembly and reversed the procedure to put the panel back in place.
First, unplug your dishwasher from under the sink. Remove all eleven screws from the inside door panel. Lift door panel up. Old latch should lift right up. use a pair of pliars to grab and squeeze the base of the old metal connectors to pull out. Do not pull on the wires themselves. Plug in the new connectors from the new latch assy, fit into place, replace the inside door panel/screws.
Removed all the screws from the door panel. Removed door handle. Replaced it with new handle. Attached switches but did not turn the power off. Replaced the panel. Everything fitted well and works well.
Removed the old part (about 10 philip head screws).Waited 1 day for the new part.Unplugged the old part and plugged in the new part.Job done.* Partselect was GREAT. They had repair stories that made this job easy (told how to do it). They delivered the part very fast. They were way under priced to other parts places.
Turned of power at the circuit breaker first. Removed the hex nuts from the inside of the door. Latch is loose know and just need to unplug the power cords from both sides. Install new latch by reattaching the two power cords to it and reassemble. Very easy and very fast shipping had part the next day with regular shipping.
Removed the front door cover (held by several screws) Replaced the broken latch with the replacement by reconnecting the switches (one at a time & noting their orientation). Rescrewed the cover. Works like a charm!
Not bad at all. Took inside door panel off. Removed broken part. A little tricky to remove/replace the electric nodes. Decided to use the old ones rather than using the new ones that came with the part. Just easier than removing wires. Put door back together with new handle in place. Good to go...
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