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PartSelect Number PS11748729
This part includes the black handle, latch and 2 switches. This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dishwasher from operating when the door is open.
NOTE: White handle is no longer available.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1)Turn off breaker to dishwasher.2)Remove screws that fasten plastic liner to outer door with allen wrench.3)Disconnect two wiring connections to latch assembly; this was toughest part of project, had to use pliers to get metal connectors our of sockets.4)Connected new assembly and screwed door back together.
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Removed all screws from the perimeter of the inner door panelRemoved (2) connectors from inner door panel and set it aside. Note this was difficult, but was finally accomplished by using a pliers and pulling on the connector body. Instructions should be included on how to remove these to prevent damage.Removed circuit board plastic cover.Unplugged Flex circuit conductor strip from circuit board.Removed control panel and door latch asm from outer door panel.Replaced parts in reverse order.Problem: The flexible conductor strip attached to the control panel had a sticky red adhesive at the tip extending about 3 inches and was stuck onto the panel. Was this for shipping reasons?Anyway, the sticky goo would not let the strip plug into the circuit board or make a reliable connection.The Dishwasher worked for one day then would not operate the next day.I had to disassemble the panels again and clean the glue off with Goo Gone. I was taking a chance because I didn't know if the Goo Gone would affect the carbon conductors on the strip.Anyway, it now is working again.Suggestion: You need to include instructions about attaching the flat conductor strip to the circuit board.Also, It does not seem proper to put the glue over the connector end of the strip. Even though the glue was on the side of the strip opposite the actual carbon conductors it got all over everything just due to handling and had to be cleaned off.I would suggest tape or something more easily removed or apply the glue away from the tip a couple of inches or more.
Turn-off the dishwasher power at the circuit breaker. Open the dishwasher door flat. Remove the 11 screws around the perimeter of the door using a t-20 torx bit (available at any hardware store). The latch assembly is held on by the top middle two door screws. Pull latch assembly out from top of door. Remove the black and white cable assembly connectors from the latch assembly making sure to note which side each color is on. If you have trouble sliding the connector off, use a flat screwdriver carefully to pry it, but do not pull on the wires. Install cable connectors onto new latch assembly making making sure the black and white cables are on the correct sides. Position the door at a 45 degree angle and place the latch assembly into position while putting the white inner door over it. Reinstall the 11 torx screws around the side of the door being sure the screws are snug, but not overtightened. Test the operation of your dishwasher. The new latch assembly seems to be built better than the factory original.
Used torx bit to remove screws on door and removed the back of door. Removed wiring from switches (2) on broken latch and removed latch. Plugged in switches on new latch and placed latch in position. Screwed back of door into place and that was it! Very simple task and new latch looks and feels much more sturdy than old one.
1. Fully opened door of dishwasher.2. With star driver, removed 11 screws from the insde edge of door.3. Outside front panel of door then is separated from inside panel slightly to again access to, latch assembly.4. Verified that replacement part matched existing part.5. Lifted out damaged latch assembly and disconnected the two electrical leads by gently pulling on the insulated connectors.6. Connected the electrical leads to the coresponding connections on the new part and replaced in the reverse order of above. 7. Total time for repair was 15 minutes.
1. Removed the screws holding the front panel on2. Turned off the power (should have done this first!)3. Disconnected the two wire set(s) to the latch handle. Had to use a screwdriver to pry them off, as they are very tight. Do not pull on the wires! Remember to mark which side is the white and which is the black.4. Disconnected electrical circuit board ribbon cable that connects the control panel to the circuit board box (big black box with many wires running to it) by tugging on it (since it gets discarded along with the old control panel, you don't care if it gets damaged). Remember to mark which side of the cable goes in which side of the box (the pattern of wires varies by side - one side has thin wires going to thick, the other side is the reverse)5. Removed screws holding control panel onto front of dishwasher - control panel and latch handle now slide off and were discarded.6.a. This was the tricky part - reconnecting the circuit board ribbon cable to the circuit board box. You have to slide a thin, flexible ribbon cable into the mating connector in the black box. I found this impossible to do by just pushing on it, so I had to disassemble the circuit board box. To do this, remove all 4 wire sets - two of them just pull off, and two of them have small latches that you need to depress with a small flat screwdriver and pull simultaneously. Not really hard, just don't yank hard on the two sets with the latch or you might break them. Fortunately, I don't think you have to mark anything, since I think all the wires can only go back in the right way when you are done (but if in doubt, mark them!) Unscrew the screw on the black box and it opens up easily.6b. Look at where the ribbon cable connects, and you'll note the connector has a two piece design - one part slides in and out by, oh, 1/8th of an inch. Pull the one part out and then insert the ribbon cable, and when you push the connector part back in, it draws the ribbon cable in nicely7. Reassemble everything - black circuit box wire sets to latch handle etc.The circuit box ribbon cable is the key here - if it goes back in the wrong way, or not inserted far enough, your dishwasher won't work, and you'll get to do it all over again...
First and foremost, turn off the power to the dishwasher at the breaker panel. Next, open the door and remove all of the Torx screws along the door edge, except the bottom two. The inner skin will open enough, and there is sufficient slack in the wires, to change out the latch assembly without completely removing the whole inner door skin. Next, remove the wire harness plug from the right switch and then insert it onto the right switch of the new assembly. Do the same with the wires for the left switch. Note, you may need a pair of pliers to remove the wire connector from the switches. Place the switch back in place, lining up the screw holes properly, and replace all of the Torx screws. Turn the breaker back on and you are done.Not only could I get the part from PartSelect.com quicker than I could from Sears, the total cost with shipping was the same as Sears wanted for just he part!
Removed the screws holding the door liner in place removed latch. Waited for half of the parts to get here, about 2 weeks. Parts got here except for Door latch and seal they were back ordered. One month after I ordered all parts finally arrive. Replace door latch assembly and replace door seal reinstall retaining screws....Done works good again. Parts were all the correct ones just took a long time to get here.
First, I recommend asking PartSelect for help to insure you have correct part. They tell me the pictures on the web site are provided by Maytag and are copywrited so they can't change them. The pictures are incorrect and misleading. However, it's a known problem, so the PartSelect people will steer you in the right direction. Bottom line in my case, I needed the lower cost part that included more pieces (counter-intuitive so I was glad I called). Got the right part the first time in about 3 days regular shipping.As far as install, you need a "Torx" screwdriver (screw heads have a star-like pattern) to remove the screws along the inside of the door. From there, the old latch is accessible and easy to remove. As others have mentioned, the hardest part is removing the wire harnesses on either side of the latch. They have a slide on compression clip holding them on, and I think that time and ambient moisture must cause them to get stuck very tightly. I originally thought there was something locking them on, but in the end, I was able to pull and wiggle them loose with by applying slight inward pressure on the prongs with long nose pliers. You have to be careful not to damage the parts when attempting to pull them apart. It's nice that the part I ordered includes new switches, so if I caused any damge removing the old ones, it didn't matter. Just take extra care on the side with the wires and plastic connectors, since those parts aren't included and are more involved to replace if you damage them.Overall, a very simple repair. The repair stories from others on the site were very helpful and gave me confidence when I ran into the small snag mentioned, since others had the same problem. Hopefully the additional detail I've provided on that issue will help fill any gaps.
All i had to do was ....first unplug the dishwasher,then remove 10 of the Torx head screws on the inside of the door.(from the top down)With that done i could open the cover without taking it off. then unplug the switches,and replace the new handle. screw the cover back in place. done! piece a cake! MDPS (don't forget to plug it back in)
First turned off power to dishwasher. Then, I removed all the screws on the dishwasher door. Removed old plastic door latch from wire assembly piece. Pressed on latches for square small wire boxes connected to wire assembly piece to be able to handle wire assembly plastic piece without attachment to dishwasher. Tried to snap door handle to wire assembly plastic piece, but didn't seem to fit - was too tight. Checked for discussion online and found that it required heavy pressure to snap in place. Used pliers to clamp down on outer plastic on wire assembly piece to squeeze fit door latch plastic hooks in place. This was difficult, but with heavy pressure finally managed to snap in outer hooks. Then with difficulty snapped in inner hooks. Was afraid of breaking new plastic piece, but all worked out well. Door has never opened and closed so well!!
If you have already figured out what the problem and the part number is, and have gotten this far, then you probably already know how to fix it and do not need instructions. But if you do, I took the following steps: 1) Use a #T20 star bit to remove the screws from the inner door panel. [Note: I would use a manual screw driver as opposed to a drill/driver, because you are less likely to accidentally strip the threads in the screw holes]; 2) Lift the panel up and detach the wire harnesses from the metal receptacles attached to the old assembly. 3) Remove the old latch assembly, and then press the wire harnesses into the metal receptacles on the new assembly. [Note: You may have trouble getting the wiring harnesses out. If you pull hard enough you can get them off, but if you truly cannot, simply detach the metal receptacles from both the new and old latch assemblies and place the old metal receptacles on the new assembly with the wire harnesses still attached. If you choose this method, be careful with the little plastic retainer bars that secure the metal receptacles, they are pretty easy to break.]; 3) Put the new latch assembly in its seating and re-secure the inner door panel. If you used a drill/driver before, I would really switch to a manual driver at this point. 4) Take the dishes out of your bathtub, and place them in the dishwasher. 5) Close the door back. 6) Stare.
First, we removed all of the screws around the perimeter of the interior door panel and lifted it up. (we didn't take it completely off because that would have required disconnecting wires so we just held it up out of the way.)Second, the plastic on the latch assembly was broken so that part came out fairly easily. The hard part was disconnecting the metal prongs that plug it in to the door control wires. We tried everything--prying, pulling--and finally got all three of us in there. One pulled on the latch end of the prongs, the other pulled on the door wiring end of the prongs, and I squeezed the prongs in-between with needle nose pliers. This broke the prongs on the latch side, which was fine since we were replacing the entire latch (the directions in the service manual we downloaded didn't give any indication that disconnecting the prongs would be difficult--I feel like there must be a trick to it, but breaking the prongs worked fine too!)Third, we plugged in the prongs of the new latch--went in easily!--and popped the new latch into place in the door. It wasn't held securely, probably because of the broken plastic, but we replaced the inner door and screwed it in place, and when we shut the door it worked.
I removed eight screws and installed the new parts. The replacement factory parts are better then the originals and the latch handle should not break again. Had I called for service it would have cost $149 (not incuding parts) just for them to show up to look at it and tell me that they need to order these same parts. Plus, I would have had to wait an addtional two weeks for them to order the parts and come back to do the repair since most service companies do not carry parts with them. Their parts are marked up and would have cost 30% more for the same factory parts I order from you. The parts including shipping were $36.30 and I had the repair completed in three days, including standard shipping time. Quite a savings! and very easy to complete the repair.Thank you!
1 - Disconnect the electrical power2 - Open the dishwasher door3 - Use Allan wrench to remove the screws from the inside door panel4 - Separate the inside pane from the door5 - Remove the latch assembly6 - Use a screw driver or pliers to remove the electrical connectors from the broken latch assembly7 - Connect the electrical connectors to the replacement latch assembly8 - Place the replacement latch assemble in the door9 - Replace the inside door panel10 - Replace the screws to secure the inside door panel11 – Reconnect the electrical power
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