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PartSelect Number PS11748729
This part includes the black handle, latch and 2 switches. This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dishwasher from operating when the door is open.
NOTE: White handle is no longer available.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
removed all screws that held the door liner in place @ 10 then removed the 6 screws that held the control panel in place. control pane came off easily. as the latch was broken that came off easy too. The replacement panel and latch fit perfectly. the only trouble I had was inserting the flat wiring bundle from the new control panel to the old circuit board connector. Take your time and really seat the flat wire bundle into the circuit board. it needs to be nice and snug. if it's not only a few of the wash functions will light up when pressed. once the connection is tight all functions worked. replace all screws - easy.
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Being a fairly technical female, I decided after Internet research to replace this part by myself. It could not have been easier - even after reading several Internet horror stories. I believe the major difference being I replaced the entire assembly, not simply the latch. You need a hex-head allen wrench to remove the inside cover of the dishwasher door, and some sort of pliers to remove the old unit. I used vice grips since I am a wimpy girl - they worked nicely (this took the longest time).Step by Step:Turn off the power to your dishwasher.Remove the door screws and carefully lift it to access the door latch assembly. Remove the old door latch by unplugging the black and white electrical mechanism. Pay close attention to which side the black and white connections are removed from for reconnection reasons. This is where I had to use vice grips. It took a bit to "unplug" the old latch assembly.Once the old latch assembly is removed, position the new latch assembly and reconnect the electrical source.Carefully reposition the door and replace the screws.Turn on the power.Run a short cycle (I used rinse) to make sure that the unit was replaced correctly.Can it be any easier than that??
After purchasing some torx head screwdrivers, it was easy to remove the front door of the diswasher and see that a few tiny plastic pieces had broken on the latch, rendering the entire dishwasher unusable. I found all of the broken pieces, and it took about 5 minutes to order replacement parts from partselect.com. What a great website! The schematics made it simple to identify exactly the parts I needed. The parts arrived promptly, fit perfectly, and installation was a breeze.
1st: Unscrewed the inside of the door (actually hex screwdriver needed).2nd: Removed broken part (one side of handle latch (which is plastic) was broken.3rd. Had to disconnect two electrodes that were attached to the part that held the handle (there are two small prongs that you need to push back to remove these)4th. In order to place the handle on the groove, you need to pull apart the bottom of the housing piece (it looks like it would be a hinge, but you just pull it apart)NOTE: Make sure you have another person hold the top portion when you pull this apart because it has a spring and will come completly apart. This happened to us and it was a pain to get it back together. 5th: place the smaller "clamps" plastic pieces in the grove and then it should slide down into the groove, which will also seat the outer "plastic clamps" into the grooves.NOTE: It seems like the repair part was built to reinforce this part of the handle, since this was the part that broke before. It is now reinforced with a little metal rod on each side.6th: After all that, you need to place the two electrodes back on the piece.7th: Hold it in place and put the inside of the door back on (start a screw on one side and then go to the opposite side. This will help to align the screw holes).8th: After I put it all back together, I turned it on to make sure it worked ok.
This repair was very easy. First, I opened the dishwasher, removed the screws (they are torx) and removed the old handle assembly. I removed the inner liner from the door, and to do that I had to pull out the electrical wires. I turned off the power, always a good idea. I should have marked the polarity on the plugs before removing them, since you can put them back on wrong (and I did).I also used caulk to hold the assembly on the bottom, since the cheap plastic molded forks holding the assembly on had broken. Most of the holding force comes from screws at the top. The caulk provides just a little adhesion, and will be easy to remove if the handle should need to be removed again--which I consider unlikely.
This was a very easy repair. Before I did anything, I flipped the breaker for the dishwasher and tried to turn the dishwasher on to make sure it had no power going to it. Once I was certain the power was off I removed the hex screws (there are 11) on the inside of the door panel using the hex screwdriver. Lifting and holding the inside panel up, I then used the pliers to pry the old latch assembly out of its metal prongs. Then I replaced the old latch assembly with the new one, pushing the metal prongs (by hand) into the slits of the new latch assembly. Last, I lined everything up and screwed the door panel back in place. I flipped the breaker back on and activated my child lock to make sure I had power. The handle worked perfectly. Quick and easy fix!I ordered the part with 3-5 day delivery and actually received it in 2 days! I'm extremely pleased with my partselect.com experience and highly recommend using them for all your appliance parts needs!
First , unplug your dishwasher from the outlet.Then remove the 9screws all the way around the inside of the door,followed by removing the 2 screws that hold the latch, 2 screws that hold the panel and 2 screws that hold the black case containing the electronic circuit board. You need to open up the black case in order to remove the thin cable that connects to the circuit board and which makes everything work. (You get a new one allready attached with the new panel). Next go to the latch assembly.You alsoneed to unhook the black & white leads. Take your time here and pull them straight back and slowly with a pair of needlenose pliers. They are stubborn so just take your time.To be safe I drew a small diagram to make sure that I hooked the white back to the right connection. Once the part s were received , I put the new panel on, connected the cable to the circuit board, closed the case and put the screws back in. Next , I put the black & white wires back on the switch ( based on my diagram) , put the 2 screws in the latch locations and then put the remaining screws back into the inside door. Plugged it in , tested it, and everything worked just fine.So far the wife hasn't used her herculean strength again. This is a Maytag & things aren't supposed to break. Last note: Your telephone person was a jewel. The latch was shown as NLA (No longer available). She took the time when I called to follow up on the part number and find another number made by another company by special order. Absolutely first class in my book. Kudos to her.Thanks again, service was good and delivery was within 5 days.
Door gasket was easy out and in using the white mark on the seal to line it up with the center. The latch came with the handle so I returned the extra latch assembly that I ordered. Super easy to install. Removed door screws, carefully lifted and set aside inside of door leaving wires attached. Reved wire from latchtch switches, attached wires to new latch, put in postion and reassembled.
Shut off the power. Opened dishwasher door fully and removed 10 screws around outside edge. Lifted the inside panel up carefully and set to side with wires attached to soap dispenser. Removed two screws that held handle in place and removed wires. On the bottom o fthe door there are 4 screws 2 on each side that have to be removed from the hinges. You can now remove front panel. Take four screws out of control pad that hold the pad to the front panel. Simply reverse steps to reassemble. Takes about 30 minutes.
Removed all screws from the perimeter of the inner door panelRemoved (2) connectors from inner door panel and set it aside. Note this was difficult, but was finally accomplished by using a pliers and pulling on the connector body. Instructions should be included on how to remove these to prevent damage.Removed circuit board plastic cover.Unplugged Flex circuit conductor strip from circuit board.Removed control panel and door latch asm from outer door panel.Replaced parts in reverse order.Problem: The flexible conductor strip attached to the control panel had a sticky red adhesive at the tip extending about 3 inches and was stuck onto the panel. Was this for shipping reasons?Anyway, the sticky goo would not let the strip plug into the circuit board or make a reliable connection.The Dishwasher worked for one day then would not operate the next day.I had to disassemble the panels again and clean the glue off with Goo Gone. I was taking a chance because I didn't know if the Goo Gone would affect the carbon conductors on the strip.Anyway, it now is working again.Suggestion: You need to include instructions about attaching the flat conductor strip to the circuit board.Also, It does not seem proper to put the glue over the connector end of the strip. Even though the glue was on the side of the strip opposite the actual carbon conductors it got all over everything just due to handling and had to be cleaned off.I would suggest tape or something more easily removed or apply the glue away from the tip a couple of inches or more.
Turn-off the dishwasher power at the circuit breaker. Open the dishwasher door flat. Remove the 11 screws around the perimeter of the door using a t-20 torx bit (available at any hardware store). The latch assembly is held on by the top middle two door screws. Pull latch assembly out from top of door. Remove the black and white cable assembly connectors from the latch assembly making sure to note which side each color is on. If you have trouble sliding the connector off, use a flat screwdriver carefully to pry it, but do not pull on the wires. Install cable connectors onto new latch assembly making making sure the black and white cables are on the correct sides. Position the door at a 45 degree angle and place the latch assembly into position while putting the white inner door over it. Reinstall the 11 torx screws around the side of the door being sure the screws are snug, but not overtightened. Test the operation of your dishwasher. The new latch assembly seems to be built better than the factory original.
Used torx bit to remove screws on door and removed the back of door. Removed wiring from switches (2) on broken latch and removed latch. Plugged in switches on new latch and placed latch in position. Screwed back of door into place and that was it! Very simple task and new latch looks and feels much more sturdy than old one.
Removed the screws holding the door liner in place removed latch. Waited for half of the parts to get here, about 2 weeks. Parts got here except for Door latch and seal they were back ordered. One month after I ordered all parts finally arrive. Replace door latch assembly and replace door seal reinstall retaining screws....Done works good again. Parts were all the correct ones just took a long time to get here.
1. Removed the screws holding the front panel on2. Turned off the power (should have done this first!)3. Disconnected the two wire set(s) to the latch handle. Had to use a screwdriver to pry them off, as they are very tight. Do not pull on the wires! Remember to mark which side is the white and which is the black.4. Disconnected electrical circuit board ribbon cable that connects the control panel to the circuit board box (big black box with many wires running to it) by tugging on it (since it gets discarded along with the old control panel, you don't care if it gets damaged). Remember to mark which side of the cable goes in which side of the box (the pattern of wires varies by side - one side has thin wires going to thick, the other side is the reverse)5. Removed screws holding control panel onto front of dishwasher - control panel and latch handle now slide off and were discarded.6.a. This was the tricky part - reconnecting the circuit board ribbon cable to the circuit board box. You have to slide a thin, flexible ribbon cable into the mating connector in the black box. I found this impossible to do by just pushing on it, so I had to disassemble the circuit board box. To do this, remove all 4 wire sets - two of them just pull off, and two of them have small latches that you need to depress with a small flat screwdriver and pull simultaneously. Not really hard, just don't yank hard on the two sets with the latch or you might break them. Fortunately, I don't think you have to mark anything, since I think all the wires can only go back in the right way when you are done (but if in doubt, mark them!) Unscrew the screw on the black box and it opens up easily.6b. Look at where the ribbon cable connects, and you'll note the connector has a two piece design - one part slides in and out by, oh, 1/8th of an inch. Pull the one part out and then insert the ribbon cable, and when you push the connector part back in, it draws the ribbon cable in nicely7. Reassemble everything - black circuit box wire sets to latch handle etc.The circuit box ribbon cable is the key here - if it goes back in the wrong way, or not inserted far enough, your dishwasher won't work, and you'll get to do it all over again...
First, I recommend asking PartSelect for help to insure you have correct part. They tell me the pictures on the web site are provided by Maytag and are copywrited so they can't change them. The pictures are incorrect and misleading. However, it's a known problem, so the PartSelect people will steer you in the right direction. Bottom line in my case, I needed the lower cost part that included more pieces (counter-intuitive so I was glad I called). Got the right part the first time in about 3 days regular shipping.As far as install, you need a "Torx" screwdriver (screw heads have a star-like pattern) to remove the screws along the inside of the door. From there, the old latch is accessible and easy to remove. As others have mentioned, the hardest part is removing the wire harnesses on either side of the latch. They have a slide on compression clip holding them on, and I think that time and ambient moisture must cause them to get stuck very tightly. I originally thought there was something locking them on, but in the end, I was able to pull and wiggle them loose with by applying slight inward pressure on the prongs with long nose pliers. You have to be careful not to damage the parts when attempting to pull them apart. It's nice that the part I ordered includes new switches, so if I caused any damge removing the old ones, it didn't matter. Just take extra care on the side with the wires and plastic connectors, since those parts aren't included and are more involved to replace if you damage them.Overall, a very simple repair. The repair stories from others on the site were very helpful and gave me confidence when I ran into the small snag mentioned, since others had the same problem. Hopefully the additional detail I've provided on that issue will help fill any gaps.
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