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PartSelect Number PS11748729
This part includes the black handle, latch and 2 switches. This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dishwasher from operating when the door is open.
NOTE: White handle is no longer available.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The hardest thing was figuring out that you only need to purchase the latch handle because it only comes as a complete latch assembly, why they even list the latch assembly as a separate part in the parts list stupid. (you get the handle and latch already put together and it cost less than the latch assembly without the handle). Anyway all you need to do is disconect the power from the dishwasher (unless you like to live dangerously like me) take your drill with the correct size torx bit and remove all the screws on the inside door pannel (the top center two screws actually hold the latch assembly in place). Disconect the 4 wires from the old part and reconect them to the new part and reinstall all the torx screws being careful not to strip the plastic threads that they screw into if you are using a drill. Whole process takes less than 5 minutes. I am surprised that Maytag used such a flimsy handle assembly in their dishwashers since they are supposed to have the repair men with the most time on their hands. They probably sell just as many handle assemblies as they do dishwashers that have this particular part in it, probably more since you will probably have to change it 2 or 3 times during the life of the unit.
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I Followed others' instructions already posted to replace the whole handle assembly. In particular, use a big screwdriver placed against the bottom of the handle and whack the grip with the palm of your hand to get the handle to move back to the open position so you can open the door and start the job. I am no handyman, but this fix was easy, about 30 minutes in all, most of which was spent figuring out which breaker to pull so as not to get shocked. One note of caution: use the correct screwdriver attachment (not a Phillips head or regular, but a star or something- see I am not a handyman but I do have a $15 screwdriver set that just paid for itself 10 times over!).
Remove the 8 or 9 torx screws holding the inner and outer door assembly together (leave the bottom screws in), lift the old handle assembly out, transfer the switches to the new handle assembly, and reassemble door.
Removed all visible screws from inside of door. Everything came apart easily and the replacements went in smoothly. No problems.
remove torq scew from edge of inside of door and seperate plastic inner panel from out steel and then pull up on plastci unscrew 2 screw securing handle and reverse to assemble. Anyone can door this in under 10 mins.
This repair was fairly quick and easy. The parts are much better made than the stock Maytag. The parts from PartSelect came lightening quick! Never used before, always Sears, but will ALWAYS use from now on!So, first, make super sure all power is disconnected. Then take the torx and remove all the screws on interior front cover - the top center two actually hold the latch assembly and handle. Once all are removed, I propped the cover up and left all wiring connected. I removed the switches connected to the old latch assembly and just removed the new switches from the new latch assembly, and popped the old ones onto the new latch assembly. Now have new switches if the old ones ever wear out. The latch assembly just pops out from what should be two sets of plastic peg clips molded into the black control panel back. Mine were busted on one side. So I molded some jb weld on the remaining sides to the pegs on the latch assembly and then screwed all back together (the controls on the panel are fine, not spending $85 if I can get away with sticking it...and the upper center two screws do the most of the holding anyway). Works great again. I really am ultra impressed with the HUGE difference in reinforcement that the new handle has. If Maytag would have built it that way to begin with, should not have broke. Anyway, if you are here just checking to see if you can do and how much parts are, place the order - it is no problem and cheap, and will probably never give up and break again.
For probably a year I have been using my dishwasher with a broken handle. I would just pull the door out with a little bit of force to open it. Still I was concerned it would eventually break something else. After reading other people's experience with replacing it, it didn't sound like such a difficult repair and the part was less than 30 dollars counting shipping. Incidently, PartSelect ships fast so make sure you order the right part. I ordered the part Friday afternoon and got it the next day! And I didn't use overnight shipping. Sweet! Here are the steps for repair.1) Turned off power to dishwasher.2) Removed all the screws on the inside of the door then shifted the panel over so I could get to the top. 3) The bottom of the latch assembly attaches to the control panel with two flimsy plastic notches and at the top with two of the screws that hold that back panel in place. (For me, I found that those flimsy notches had broken. I was concerned that I would have to buy a whole new control panel which was ~175.00 dollars. Yikes! Luckily the two screws at the top and the door panel behind it seem to be holding it in place.)4) There are two pairs of metal prongs that plug into a white connectors on either side of the latch assembly. I had to use pliers to pinch the metal prongs together while wiggling the connector get it unplugged. This was the hardest part. (It would have been easier to just reuse the same metal plugs. Someone else did that and it seemed to work.) Be sure to note which side of the latch assemply the two connectors was plugged in to.5) Plug the 2 white connectors to the new latch assembly.6) Lay the latch assembly in place on the door.7) Put the back panel down over it and screw it in place.8) Turn on power.Works perfectly!
I ordered a new control panel, latch assembly and latch handle. The panel and latch assembly (which includes two contact switches) came quickly, the cheapest part (latch handle) was on back order. I was surpised when the handle came because it included a new latch assembly with the handle already attached, maybe an improved design? I shut off elecricity to the dishwasher, opened the door and removed the 11 torx T-20 screws. The inner panel lifts up and I then unplugged the electrical connector at the soap dispenser, unplugged the 2 connectors at the latch assembly contact switches (remember which is which). The inner panel can be removed and set aside. These connectors are tight coming off, so use care and maybe some Channel locks to wiggle them loose. If your changing the control panel, remove the cover over the circuit board, a ribbon connector goes into this and has a sliding collar, slide up to loosen and remove the ribbon, fully insert the new ribbon and slide back down to tighten. I used a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the screws holding the panel. The latch assembly with handle attached snaps into brackets on the panel, re-install the control panel, routing the ribbon cable carefully. Replace the cover over the electronics, plug all the elecrical connections back in, replace the torx screws. Turn on the power. The new parts seem much better than the original.
First, I researched the part on this website and found the suitable replacement part...the number is different from the original Maytag part. I placed the order and the part arrived quickly. Then I used the appropriate driver to loosen the 11 screws that are around the inside of the door. I pulled up on the plastic panel to gain access to the handle and latch assembly and the old handle fell out as well as the latch assembly. I took off the electrical clips(this was the hardest part....you have to pull hard) and re-attached them to the new part. I put the handle and latch assembly in place-they come together as a single unit which makes it far easier to replace than just the handle alone-and then re-posistioned the plastic inner door, and finally tightened the screws. Shut the door and opened to test. Done deal. No problem.
1.Turn of electric2. Open dishwasher door3. Remove scres for interior door cover4. Lift and move the interior door cover to right5. Use Pliers to pull off connectors of Latch6. Use Pliers to attach replacement latch 7. Lay interior door cover back on door and line up with screw holes. Make sure you have the bottom lip over the bottom of exterior door by hinges. Bottom lip goes inside the dishwasher. 8. Put back in screws - not all the way and tighten snug (do not over tighen) once all are in place.9. turn on power.10. Done!30 Minutes tops!
Had this problem before and the part was simply a plastic latch which cost less than 5 dollars. That part has been discontinued and the latch is now the entire assembly. Although the part costs more, the repair is much simpler. Remove the screws from the inside of the door. Have to use hex nut screwdriver. Remove the panel and the assembly is right at the top. Unhook the assembly from the two (2) prongs. TURN OFF the electricity or touching the prong will bite you. Had to pry the latches off the prongs with a screwdriver as the fit is tight. Latch the new assembly on and rescrew the door panel and the job is done. Very easy and cheaper than a repairman coming out and charging $150.00
I removed the 11 screws that hold the plastic inner liner to the outer sheet metal of the door. The latch will be right there, and very easy to access. I Just removed the two connectors for the wires, which are a bit stubborn, and used a pliers for leverage to get them off the latch. Installed them on the new latch, and put the door halves back together, and ran the 11 screws back in. A side note, I have noticed that on the plastic front panel that houses the buttons, that there are two plastic tabs that are cast into the unit, that are chronically broken. They are there to help hold the latch solid when you put the two halves of the door together. I have been really easy on the door, but they still break, but it seems to work pretty well without the tabs intact. This happened to me twice, because I replaced the front upper panel on it, and the same thing happened again. Engineering issue I assume. Overall, a quick and simple install.
Once I got the door open, I removed the door cover screws with a Torx driver, where I found the broken handle and the Latch Assembly. One of the plastic handle pivot points had broken clean off. In my Brilliance, I went online to PartSelect, found that the part that I needed had been discontinued (from Maytag) and picked one that looked right. It ended up being the assembly without the handle, the part I needed. Save yourself some time and call the 800 number to make sure you get what you need. They were very helpfull in returning the wrong part to get the right one. Once I had the part, the repair was very straightforward. I just had to open the door up again, swap in the new Latch Assembly with the steel reinforced pivot point handle, and put the screws back in the door. The latch assembly is held in place by two of the door screws. Watch the cut off switches on the assembly, the power is hot until you power off the circut at the electric panel.
The repair stories on PartSelect.com told me exactly what to do. First, I checked the inside of the door and confirmed that the inside panel of the door was held in place with about 10 torx screws. Second, I went out and bought a set of torx screwdrivers. Third, I TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE DISHWASHER AT THE BREAKER BOX! Safety first! Fourth, I removed the screws and gently lifted the inside panel of the door, and then gently lifted the broken door latch assembly out of its slot. (There were no more screws to remove, because the latch assembly is held in place by two of the door screws.) Two sets of wires, one white and the other black, were connected to the latch assembly by plug-in connectors. Fifth, I unplugged the wires from the broken latch assembly. The clips in the plug were very tight, so I used a dishtowel to hold onto the latch assembly. I found that gave me a better grip. Sixth, I plugged the wires onto the new latch assembly, and then slipped the latch assembly back into the slot. Seventh, I replaced the inside door panel, and replaced in the 10 torx screws. Finally, I turned on the power at the breaker box, closed the door, and turned on the dishwasher. It ran perfectly!I would like tyo add that I had ordered an unnecessary part by mistake. I called the return number, and the person who answered was extremely helpful. She gave me the return authorization number and I put the part in the mail. Ten days later, I received an email from PartSelect.com confirming that the part had arrived and that my account had been credited. The entire process was easy and pleasant. Anybody can do this! Just make sure to shut off the power at the breaker box before you start on the job.
first i removed eight torx (t-20) size screws...from the inner door . Then the wired harness surrounding the latch handle...( just a warning..im very very handy..esp with electric and got a little too cocky....pls make sure you turn off the power to the dishwasher...and avoid being zapped as i did ok?) the replacement part snapped in perfectly and was actually better quality than the maytag original...all it took then was to put the eight screws back and the washer was up and running in about 1o mins..
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