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PartSelect Number PS11748729
This part includes the black handle, latch and 2 switches. This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dishwasher from operating when the door is open.
NOTE: White handle is no longer available.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
All i had to do was ....first unplug the dishwasher,then remove 10 of the Torx head screws on the inside of the door.(from the top down)With that done i could open the cover without taking it off. then unplug the switches,and replace the new handle. screw the cover back in place. done! piece a cake! MDPS (don't forget to plug it back in)
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First turned off power to dishwasher. Then, I removed all the screws on the dishwasher door. Removed old plastic door latch from wire assembly piece. Pressed on latches for square small wire boxes connected to wire assembly piece to be able to handle wire assembly plastic piece without attachment to dishwasher. Tried to snap door handle to wire assembly plastic piece, but didn't seem to fit - was too tight. Checked for discussion online and found that it required heavy pressure to snap in place. Used pliers to clamp down on outer plastic on wire assembly piece to squeeze fit door latch plastic hooks in place. This was difficult, but with heavy pressure finally managed to snap in outer hooks. Then with difficulty snapped in inner hooks. Was afraid of breaking new plastic piece, but all worked out well. Door has never opened and closed so well!!
If you have already figured out what the problem and the part number is, and have gotten this far, then you probably already know how to fix it and do not need instructions. But if you do, I took the following steps: 1) Use a #T20 star bit to remove the screws from the inner door panel. [Note: I would use a manual screw driver as opposed to a drill/driver, because you are less likely to accidentally strip the threads in the screw holes]; 2) Lift the panel up and detach the wire harnesses from the metal receptacles attached to the old assembly. 3) Remove the old latch assembly, and then press the wire harnesses into the metal receptacles on the new assembly. [Note: You may have trouble getting the wiring harnesses out. If you pull hard enough you can get them off, but if you truly cannot, simply detach the metal receptacles from both the new and old latch assemblies and place the old metal receptacles on the new assembly with the wire harnesses still attached. If you choose this method, be careful with the little plastic retainer bars that secure the metal receptacles, they are pretty easy to break.]; 3) Put the new latch assembly in its seating and re-secure the inner door panel. If you used a drill/driver before, I would really switch to a manual driver at this point. 4) Take the dishes out of your bathtub, and place them in the dishwasher. 5) Close the door back. 6) Stare.
I removed eight screws and installed the new parts. The replacement factory parts are better then the originals and the latch handle should not break again. Had I called for service it would have cost $149 (not incuding parts) just for them to show up to look at it and tell me that they need to order these same parts. Plus, I would have had to wait an addtional two weeks for them to order the parts and come back to do the repair since most service companies do not carry parts with them. Their parts are marked up and would have cost 30% more for the same factory parts I order from you. The parts including shipping were $36.30 and I had the repair completed in three days, including standard shipping time. Quite a savings! and very easy to complete the repair.Thank you!
The repair is simple open the door and remove the perimeter screws and lift the door panel up. Be careful of attached wires. The handle only requires that you remove two electrical connectors and reconnect to the new latch handle and realign it with the screw holes in the door panel. The seals are not as easy to change they are attached with spring clips that I had to snipe through to get the old seals off. The new seals did not come with new spring clips, so I flattened the clips and reused them, they did not hold as tight, but seemed to work. Then just reinstall the panel.
Received the entire latch/switch assembly rather than just the plastic latch handle. This was a pleasant surprise, especially for the price. The latch assembly was clearly a better designed and more robust assembly than the original. Removed the inside panel of the door by removing the dozen or so TORX screws. Pulled the inside panel away from the outside door panel (gently, cables attached) to gain access to the latch/switch assembly. A second set of hands was helpful for this and some following steps. At that point the latch assembly was free mechanically from the door, but there were two wiring harnesses attached to the latch assembly via plug connectors to the two microswitches on the latch assembly. It looked like it was going to be easy to unplug the harness from the switches, but I could not do it. Never did figure out how to do it. Removed the two microswitches (with harnesses attached) from the 'old' latch assembly by pulling back the plastic tab that holds each switch in place. At that point the rest of the latch assembly was completely free from the machine. Removed the two microswitches from the 'new' latch assembly using the same method as above. This step requires care as the plastic parts and switches can be damaged. Put in place the two 'old' microswitches with wiring harnesses attached on each side of the 'new' latch assembly. These snap in place. This requires care, as above, and the second set of hands to hold away the inside door panel. Put the latch/switch assembly in place in the door, and put the inside door panel back in place. Re-installed the TORX screws holding the inside door panel - and latch assembly - to the door. I kept the 'new' microswitches because one day the 'old' switches may fail. If that happens and I want to replace the microswitches, I still don't know how I will remove the switches from the wiring harness. I guess I'll figure that out if the time comes. Except for the difficulties disconnecting the microswitches from the harnesses, this was an easy and straightforward job. The latching of the door seems more positive, now, and the machine is working fine.
Unplug the power cable. Remove 11 torx fasteners holding the inner door panel. Remove two sets of wires from old opener and install the new door opener assembly. Replace all the screws. About 10 minutes with a power driver.
opened door and unscrewed screws. Once we got that off we needed to shut off the power which was the hardest part as my husband had to go to the main box and flip breakers till figured out which one it was. With help holding parts and wires so we didn't have to discoonect everything it was really easy to just reconnect the new parts, place in the latch and screw the panel back in. Everything fit like a charm and when we turned it on it worked. So we are very happy.
Removed 11 T20 Torx head screws. Removed and replaced latch. Removed and replaced door seal and foam insulation strip - no additional tools required. Super easy to repair and didn't leak a drop afterwards.
I was extreemly pleased with the replacement handle unit. The original unit had a plastic pivot points - the replacement part replaced these points with metal rods. The pivot points on the old unit were the points of failure.The repair should have been done with a "star" head. Not having this, I was able to use a hex wrench instead.The repair time was less than 10 minutes, most of that time removing and replacing the star head screws. If you have removed the old part, you have essentially completed the repair.The biggest problem was identifying the proper handle unit. There are two very similar. Measure the distance between the mount holes in the unit and refer to the grid in the picture. The grid on your site was extreemly helpfull given the lack of part numbers printed on the Maytag OEM parts.
Pretty easy job. You need torx tips for your screwdriver. An electric screwdriver got all 8 or 9 screws out of the door panel in about 60 seconds, separated inner door from outer door, pulled out handle assembly & disconnected wires, attached wires to new assembly, screwed it all back together. Be prepared... the handle will break again. It's just a bad design by Maytag. This Maytag model is so bad the company discontinued it. Beware of the control panel getting corroded from steam & failing. If replacing this panel, make sure you seal where the cable goes into the touchpad with some kind of waterproof glue, nail polish remover, or sealing tape so it doesn't happen again.
I unscrewed the inner door panel and the old latch assembly came out. I went to the circuit breaker and cut off power to the DW. Then I unplugged the old latch assembly and plugged the new one in. There were some springy metal pieces that had to be pushed back to get the old plug off and the new one on. After that it was just a matter of aligning the holes of the latch assembly with the holes for the screws and replacing all the screw holding the door panel, and tightening them up.
Repair was fairly easy. There are 11 screws You have to remove then simply unplug the electrical connection from the door latch/switch and plug in the new one line up the screw holes tighten them down and your in business.
First I removed the torx screws halding the inner door panel on. I then seperated the door panel from the door and removed the latch assembly and disconnected the switches from the latch. After installing the switches on the new latch I replaced it between door and inner panel. Finally I replaced the torx screws and was finished.
This repair was really three separate easy repairs.The top rack docking station is really simple -- pop the old one off and snap the new one on.The impeller is easy IF you have the right Torx screwdriver. You have to take a few layers of water handling plastic parts off to get the the impeller, but it's all pretty easy. I did strep a couple of Torx bits when I put one of the parts back on, but I've had this apart at least three times and they held up the first few times. I'll buy some new screws next time.There are a few things to keep in mind when changing the door latch and control panel. First, change the latch as soon as it breaks, instead of waiting for it to break more and destroy the control panel in the meantime. I'd have save $60 and most of the work if I hadn't put it off. Second, turn off the power. Changing the panel requires removing and replacing some wires, and it would be EASY to contact wires that you probably don't want to. A nutdriver makes quick work of everything that the Torx doesn't fit, and the remove/replace is pretty easy. Be attentive when refitting the ribbon cable for the control panel - if you're not familiar with this kind of connector you need to figure out the funky slidelock mechanism of the shell. It's easy though.All the parts fit perfectly, and appear to be factory exact replacements. It works fine now, too.
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