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PartSelect Number PS11748479
This hi-limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 225 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 185 degrees Fahrenheit - the differential of 40 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Took the cover off the front of the dryer by removing the two screws that hold the cover in place. Then removed the two screws that held the heating element in place and removed the heating element. Removed the screws that held in the theremostats and then disconnected the two wires and put them on the new thermostat. Rescrewed them in with excisting screws and then put the heating element back in. Put the cover back on and turned on the dryer, and presto it all works again.
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How to take apart a dryer:The first way:1) Remove front lower panel (2 screws on bottom).2) Remove the front black plastic air duct.3) If you have long arms, or an extention socket wrench, you might be able to reach the heating unit, otherwise use the Second way:The second way:1) Remove front lower panel, as this will expose the screws to the dry door unit.2) Remove dryer door unit (2 screws on bottom, 2 spring clips on top), and disconnect assoc wires.3) Remove dryer lid:3.1) Remove 2 screws on front (previously hidden by door unit3.2) Remove 2 clip hooks on back of dryer3.3) Lift lid rear above center guides, and wiggle away from front spring clips4) Lay dryer on back, as this will allow easier removal of the drum5) Remove screws securing the heater control unit.Attempt 1: Disconnected heating element and saw that the heating coils were broken. Ordered new heating coil and new belt.Attempt 2: 3 weeks after installing new heating element, my wife informed me that the unit was no longer putting out heat!!! So, I ordered the Thermostat and Thermal Fuse. Put dryer back together.Attempt 3: Turned it on - absolutely nothing - dead, dead, dead. Discussed purchasing new $600+ dryer. Started taking it apart again, and discovered that door wire was never reattached. Meaning the dryer thought the door was wide open.Attempt 4: Now the dryer squeaks. Took dryer partially apart and added white grease to wheels that support the drum. Currently, all is well with the world.Moral of the story: Replace the entire heating unit, check belt for cracks and grease the wheels if you get a chance.
Thermostat failed and would not regulate temperature, thus blowing out high limit thermal fuse as it should, after melting the wire connecting the two components. After replacing both items and the melted wire, I cleaned all the vent ducts to assure that they were clear. The appliance then worked as good as new.
`replaced high limit thermal fuse and limit thermostat. I checked the ohns reading and found they were open circuit. Running great now.
removed the top of unit then the door and front panel. The drum had to come out and the remove the heating element on the back wall. I replace the heating element then the thermal fuse and limit switch. replaced same the reinstalled drum. Kinda tricky with the drive belt but after 15 minutes or so I got it in place. Replaced the door and front panel along with top of unit...plugged back ain and it worked. my cost to repair with board, and 2 switches 89 dollars. If I called a repairman house call started at 150.
First I removed two screws that held front lower panel on, then the three srews that held plastic blower sheild on and removed it, then I removed the two screws that held the element inplace, pulled it forward to the front of the machine, plenty of wire length available.I unscrewed one themal fuse at a time and replaced with the new one so I did not cross the wires. I then reinstalled the element to the machine reattached with the scews.
This Web site is a treasure. I found it and watched the repair videos. First, remove the bottom panel on the front of the dryer, the one below the door. Then remove the door panel, detaching the signal and light wires. Be sure to mark them first, as to which is on top and which is first. Then I removed the drum panel, with the lint box attached - you only need to remove that from the drum panel if you want to clean the inside of it. Lastly I removed the drum. You have to take the belt off the roller underneath first. After taking everything off from the front, it's super easy to get to the fuse and thermostat in the back. The most challenging part was putting the belt back onto the roller. It has a spring, so you have to stretch it far enough so that the belt will fit around it. Be sure to watch the video to understand the configuration of the belt and roller. Good luck!
Take front lower cover off with two screws at bottom.Remove heating element from lower left side rear. Leave wires on until element is removed.Replace element and thermostat and then switch the wires from old parts to new parts one at a time so they don't get crossed.Clean any lint from inside dryer at this time.Install new parts back to dryer.Replace front cover and your done.
In my case I had no idea initially what was wrong so I tore the entire dryer apart. Took the control panel apart, the front kick plate off, the door assemly off, then took the entire dryer housing off the base so I could get to everything. It was at this point I decided to try to seriously repair it myself. I found PartsSelect, read through the appropriate repair stories and determined the only real possible parts. I ordered the parts, received them promptly, and replaced 4 of the 5. The parts were easy to replace, just unplug the wires, used a socket set to remove the bolts holding them and replaced. I also unplugged the two wires to the element, unbolted it, cleaned it out and replaced it. The 5th part, the roller shaft did not have to be replaced. The original was in fine condition, it had simply loosened and was wobbly from 12 years of use. The bearing was still perfect with no slack in the shaft at all. After hooking up what I needed to for a test run, all was well. I then took about 2 hours to put everything back together. The dryer now works perfectly........dries loads completely in approx. 30 minutes and runs whisper quiet.
Removed lower panel 2 screws, removed blower vent housing 3 screws,reached in to lower left back wall and removed 2 screws and removed the heating element,wires were long enough to reach the front. Replaced thermostat and element and re installed.The vent was loaded with lint .The dryer works like new. Really easy
My problem was that my AMANA dryer would not heat. The site suggested testing the two thermostats so I opened the dryer but didn’t follow the instructions in the video tutorial on the site since my AMANA is different. I used a nut driver and needle-nosed pliers for the whole job. Here’s what I did:1. Unplugged the dryer.2. Disconnected the exhaust pipe at the dryer.3. Pulled dryer away from back wall about two feet.4. Removed the two bottom panel screws (floor level) and removed panel.5. Removed the two door panel screws and removed door panel by pulling out at the bottom until the two spring clips released from the top panel.6. Noted the colors of the wires going to the door switch and removed (green, black and white from left to right).7. Noted the colors of the wires going to the lamp and removed (bottom - black and top - red.)8. Removed the two top panel screws, lifted up the top panel and leaned it against a support.9. Removed the four bulkhead screws and carefully lifted up and removed the bulkhead being sure to support the drum. Took note of the belt path around the motor and idler pulleys.10. Reached under the drum and took the belt off the idler pulley and motor drive pulley.11. Used the belt to lift and remove the drum through the front opening.I noticed that the internal vent pipe had become disconnected (which probably caused internal overheating) so I fixed that.I then removed the wires to the thermostats and tested both for continuity. The limit thermostat was bad. I also saw that the belt was becoming cracked. I ordered a new limit thermostat and belt.Installation of the new parts was a snap. I removed the old thermostat with the nut driver and replaced with the new one and pushed the wire connectors back on. Replacing the belt was a little trickier but not a problem. (Be sure to route the new belt correctly as noted on Step 9 and place ribbed surface next to drum.)I closed up the dryer by reversing the opening steps.
Easy, but the directional video on the website wasnt for the dryer my daughter had. Didnt have to take all apart as directed. Should have only taken the lower cover off the front of the dryer. But, got the chance to really vacuum & clean out all the extra build up of lint that was a Major fire hazard. Turned out good in the end, Dryer heats like it should now. Thanks from TEXAS
not sure if it was the fuse or the limit thermostat because for $15 I re[laced both, just in case. quick and easy and the online video was awesome. it took longer to fit it back together than it took to take it apart and replace the componants.
Replaced Heating Element - 240V High Limit Thermal Fuse &Limit Thermostat
Online research ... found PartSelect ... pointed to High Limit Thermal Fuse being most likely culprit ... bought Limit Thermostat just in case to save shipping ... turns out probably didn't need it, but replaced while the heater assembly was out in open. Only had to remove bottom "kick-plate," then Lint Duct Assembly (good thing ... was half full with debris) ... then heating element ... total 11 screws ... easy ... half time research, half work.
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