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PartSelect Number PS11747680
Water that fills your dishwasher lifts this float. When it reaches a certain level, the float triggers the float switch to shut off, thereby shutting off the flow of water into the dishwasher.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Remove lower cover to expose the motor, valves and electrical connections. turn off water supply and electrical circuit breaker. Disconnect leads from float switch. Remove float switch with a single phillips head screw. Replace with new one and attach leads---very easy.Remove water inlet electrical connections--remember which goes to which connector. Disconnect hot watter supply with open ended box wrench.Remove water inlet valve from washer wall by unscrewing two sheet metal screws. Use 1/4" socket and 3" extension for this. Use pliers to release the hose clamp holding the rubber water line onto the valve outlet stem. Reverse this sequence to intall the new switch. Moderately easy. Have sponge and paper towels to soak up spills when you do the disconnects. .
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I removed the two plates located below the dishwasher door to expose the float switch. I removed the two screws holding float switch, I removed screw holding switch actuator, then I removed float assembly.Installed new float assembly, but could not use the float palnut, it had too small of a hole, I substituted a larger one that fit the float better. Note I fitted the palnut to the float (the nut cuts it's own threads in the float) before installing the float. This made installation easier. Next I transferred the two wires from the old float switch to the new float switch in the same positions as the existing switch wires. Then I installed the float switch. Finally, I cleaned up the float switch actuator and screw so that the actuator moves freely on the screw. I then installed the float switch actuator and ran the dishwasher to check for proper operation. Note: this float and switch control the water level in the dishwasher. If the actuator sticks, the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the float has collected dirt inside, it will weigh more and the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the switch sticks or fails the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. That is why I relaced the parts: float and switch. I don't want to go back and work on this again.Lastly, after a few days of proper operation, I installed the two plates located below the dishwasher door. Job done!
First, I removed the foot plate(s) at the bottom of the Dishwasher. (2 screws each side)Then I removed the two top screws at the front of the dish-washer. The screws were mounted into a board under the counter that had broken loose. (A minor secondary issue specific to my situation.)I gently inched the dishwasher out from under the cabinets.SLOWLY, I tipped the dishwasher over on its side, allowing the water still inside to drain into a pan. Minor cleanup required for the cup or two that missed.I then had access to the part. I disconnected the power from the wall socket, and I closed the valve for the inlet water from under the sink.I removed the screws holding the Water Valve to the DishWasher case. Then I took a sharpie and marked one side of one of the two power connectors, black-mark to black-mark.When I went to disconnect the inlet pipe, there was more dripping than I expected, so the valve under the sink was not closing completely. I needed to shut off the water supply to the house for the next stage.I disconnected the inlet water supply, which continued to drip slightly into a bucket. I then removed the coupler from the old water valve. It was badly clogged and corroded, so I went to a local HW store and found an exact match 3/8" to 3/8" right angle coupler with compression fitting on one end.BIG TRICK, before installing the new coupler, WRAP the compression fitting threads with teflon tape. You will not be able to wrap it once it is installed. In fact, I needed to uninstall the part once after I discovered this, to wrap the threads smoothly.Once pre-wrapped, wrap the other threads that screw into the water valve. Tighten until secure, AND aligned with the direction of the flow tubes of the original.Match the electrical connectors, black-mark to the same position as before. (The new water valve will NOT have the black-mark on it, unless you transfer one!)Connect the Water valve back to the Dish Washer chassis with the two screws previously removed.Connect the inlet water back to the compression fitting with the pre-wrapped threads.Gently return the dishwasher to upright, and then plug it in.Open the valve under the sink slowly and watch for drips or leaks.Run the dishwasher at the start of a cycle, long enough to determine that the valve activates, and allows water to flow. Then stop the cycle.Gently walk the dishwasher back under the counter, observing that you do not kink the copper water inlet pipe, or the drain pipe.Adjust the feet, if necessary, back to fully support and level the dishwasher.Install the two screws holding the dishwasher to the cabinet front. Then install the kick plates and tighten those 4 screws. Clean up any residual water from the process.
Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops
Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point. Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.
Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.
had to remove the iner door plate and remove the main switch or latch to get to the micro switches witch one had over heated over time,it is working like new at this time.
I removed the access panel and it was right there. one screw - disconect the wires & it was out. then right back in - access panel on, and done.
By the book. It didn't solve the problem. I think I need the key pad , but I ' m not sure it is worth it.I may have to buy a new dishwasher.
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