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PartSelect Number PS11747252
This switch is used for the right rear and left front burner.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I first turned off the power to the stovetop at the breaker box, disconnected the power supply wires, removed the stovetop from the counter, placed the stovetop on a towel on the kitchen table, removed the screws connecting the glass top to the base, removed the glass top, removed additional screws holding the sheetmetal housing for the switches, opened this area and located the faulty switch, disconnected the wires leading to the faulty switch, connected the wires to the new switch, secured the switch to the sheetmetal housing and put the unit back together. It was not a difficult repair, just took a little time.
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About three months ago, the glass surface cooktop started to develop cracks similar to what happens to a car windshield. About a month ago, the cracks turned into fault lines, making the glass surfaces unlevel and rendering the burner unusable. Also, the lower left burner dual control would not go to simmer after being on high. No information could be obtained about how to access the cooktop. I placed a service call to a local appliance repairer. For a service call fee of $54, he instructed me on how to pull the oven to access the cooktop, and quoted a price of about $725 to replace the glass surface and defective control. For about $350 in parts and about 3 hours labor, I replaced the glass and control, and banished a terrible buzzing noise the oven was making during preheat and baking.
First I turned off the power at the circuit-breaker. Next, I disconnected the wires to the cooktop pigtail in the junction box. I lifted the cooktop from the countertop by pushing up from under the countertop. I raised it up enough to slip some wood slats in to hold it up. I finally was able to support the unit on two two-by-fours which bridged the opening in the countertop. It is important to keep the unit topside up. The screws which hold the top in place all go in from the outside all around the perimeter of the top. Once the screws are out and the knobs pulled off, the glass top can be lifted off from the metal assembly which holds the controls. An ell-shaped sheet metal guard must be removed first. Then all of the screws must be removed from the control box. Raise the control box, remove one connector at a time from the defective switch and connect each to the same terminal on the replacement. Remove the two screws that hold the defective switch. Remove the defective switch and replace it with the new one. Then put everything back together and reconnect the wiring. Turn power on at the circuit breaker and it should work fine. Do not pry against the glass top when separating it. You can pry gently between the metal parts. Be sure all of the screws are out first.
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