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PartSelect Number PS11747248
This thermostat is also known as a thermal cut-off fuse and is used in conjunction with your range. This part establishes and maintains the internal temperature of the oven cavity. When the temperature of your range gets too hot it will trip the high-limit thermostat safety, this will cut the power to the oven so that it does not continue to overheat. For this installation, you will need a Phillips screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers. If your oven does not heat after a self-cleaning cycle you may need to replace the high-limit thermostat.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Something Kitchen Aid wont tell you but running a self clean on this model stove blows the fuse located on the back of the stove. First I slid the stove out and removed the back of the stove held in place by 8 Phillips screws. The thermostat fuse is located near the top middle on the back of the stove. Remove the 2 screws holding it in place. Disconnect the wires, plug in the new part. Put it all back together. Job done in less than 30 minutes. This repair would have cost $164 through A&E factory service.
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My wife used the self cleaning function for the first time after 1.5 years of owning, of course out of warranty. A quick google search identified the problem. Called Kitchenaid, they said of course it can't be that simple, they had never heard of this problem, need to schedule a service call. Googled and found this site, Ordered the part, came in, only took a screwdriver and about 20 minutes, just like all the other posts.shame on Kitchenaid for not owning up to the problem. I even e-mailed them all the links, they did not acknowledge them.
My husband did the repair and said it was very easy to do with the following instructions that I got from the Fix Ya website. This is a design flaw in the Kitchenaid convection ovens. I can help fix this problem if you have a built in oven (I don't know if the parts are located in the same place for stand alone ovens). First it is not a FUSE that has blown rather it is the thermostat in the rear of the oven. (Part #4452223) This small part cost about $37 US and after shipping it will cost you about $47. I tried to get an estimate from an electrician as to what of frustration I decided to tackle the problem mthey would charge for the part and to come out and fix the oven an the price was about $90 for the part and anywhere between $100 and $170 more for the service call + repair! After a day myself.The very first thing you must do is shut off the circuit breaker to the oven and put a very large sign on the panel that reads DO NOT TOUCH! That is 220 volts to that oven and while most panels have just the oven ont circuit you dont want anyone reactivating that circuit by mistake! The next part requires a little work. Find the side panel screws (usually located in the oven door) and remove the two panel flanges that cover the 2 or 4 mounting screws that keep the oven in the wall. Now go underneath the oven and find the power junction box, take off the cover and disconnect the wires that run from the oven. Remember which goes where. Next remove the little nut that holds the electical conduit cable to the junction box then loosen the wires. Once this is done you can now slide the oven out and get to the thermostat.This part requires a little elbow grease. Find a platform or table that fits just under where the stove will slide out and slide the oven on top of the table or whatever for support. In the back of the oven there will be a sheet metal panel that covers the thermostat and other wires, remove the 5 or 6 screws that hold this panel on and put the panel aside. Almost in the middle of the oven's back you will see a little black device with two wires running out of it (one red the other white or yellow). It will have the part number on its front, remove the wire and notice that the thermostat is half red and half white (remember this for the new part will have the same markings) the red wire goes onto the lead coming from the red markings. When you have the new part simply put the new one in (remember: the red side to the red wire), attach it to the back of the oven, replace the sheet metal cover and slide the oven back into place securing it with the screws. Viola! you are done! Turn on the power and then test the oven (I used the broil setting to warm it up then switch to a temperature setting). The entire process took me about an hour and I am NOT a handyman!
Don't, Don't, Don't!!!!!!! call a repair man to replace the thermo fuse. If you are able to use the T.V. remote and crack a twist top off a cold beer, then you can DO this. I am 47 years old and half retarded and my 84 year old neighbor and I completed this task in 12 minutes. Turn off the breaker panel, pull the oven out, (it is hard wired). We placed it on a 4 wheeled dolly. Unscrew 11 screws, pop the panel. The fusee is at the top/center with two screws holding it. Pull the two wires off, screw it back in place. Put back the panel & 11 screws. Put the oven back in place. Turn on the breaker and you are done. PS Tell your wife or girl friend this might take an hour or so. Send her to the store for a six pack & steak.
Very simple. I removed two screws holding the oven in place. Slid oven out onto the kitchen floor - it doesn't really weigh that much. I then removed about a dozen screws holding the back panel in place. I removed the back panel, disconnected the thermostat by unscrewing a single screw and pulled the defective part from the connectors. I then installed the new thermostat, screwed the back panel back on, slid the oven back into place and re-secured with the two screws. Voila! Repair done. The whole procedure took about 15 minutes and was not difficult at all.
First I cut off power ! 2 screws for oven trim,4 more to disconnect from cabinet. Hardest part was pulling oven out and pushing back in. I found a big box of correct size to rest it on so I didn't need to disconnect the powerline. 8 more screws to remove the back panel. 2 screws to remove the thermostat.Then put it back together. New part had arrived sooner than expected, cost of the part was less than a minimum service call would have been! I absolutly will use your site again.PS Wife was amazed and now thinks I'm a genious.
Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.
I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point thermostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.
After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.
I first did a search with my issue, found out there were many others with the same issue. That then led me to see the part, a fuse / thermostat, was the culprit and easy to replace it seemed. But first called a service co. who confirmed my findings, and quoted a fix of a $2-300! So I bought the part; worse case I'd have someone else install. The web site noted the few screws to remove and a key suggestion to find a box of same height to easily slide out oven; I used a porter cable nail gun case which worked great. Took my time removing trim, mounting screws etc., slid out oven easy. Removed back plate and there was the older one. Removed and installed new in a minute. Spent more time cleaning around trim than actual install. What a great day it was. Wife was happy too!
Shut off power at breaker and removed oven door to lessen weight. Removed oven trim and retaining screws and tried pulling out of cabinet. Stuck on power cable, so had to remove Mircrowave oven above to get to power cable plug. Removed oven back cover panel to access thermostat. Easy to unplug and replace with new thermostat. Reassembled and turned on power. Cooked dinner in oven.
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