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PartSelect Number PS11747064
This part will fit between the newer type lower wash arm and the wash arm retainer nut of your dishwasher.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed upper basket and installed the arm. New snap in didn't require phillips screwdriver as old one and new support had split to insert. Replacing upper spray spinner dropped screw down around pump. This caused misery unassembling lower covers to receive Stainless Steel, so magnet won't help ended up with mirror and hemistat to reach through large screen figures. So make sure to put towel or something in the bottom to catch parts.
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Removed spray bar by removing the plastic finger thumb screw and replace as shown by you web page. Very simple.
First I removed the nut holding down the lower washarm in place. I then lifted up the lower washarm where it's held in place by the nut. I replaced the two new parts: The lower sprayarm seal that seats underneath the lower washarm and the washarm bearing ring that seats on the top of the lower washarm just underneath the nut. A schematic parts list diagram can be downloaded on the KitchenAid website. The wobbling motion of the lower washarm still seems to have the same amount of play as it had before I replaced the two parts. The lower washarm itself is in fine shape including the nut. I even attempted several other different ways to install the seal and bearing ring, yet the washarm still wobbles when I manually spin it. I called KitchenAid to find out if wobbling of the lower washarm was normal. Unfortunately, the person I spoke to didn't seem to me to knowledgable enough in this area.
piece of cake to do, follow instructions on sheet provided easy as 1,2,3...
I ordered the parts from parts select and was pleasantly suprised at the diagnostic diagrams, the home install video, and the quality and pricing of the parts. I had ordered just the top bearing a few years ago and did not realized the bottom seal was bad also. I found the seal pushed down around the pump housing which caused excessive ware on the pump housing top and the top of the wash arm because the gap in the lower seal expanded over 1/4 inch causing the wear on the top of the wash are. This job is normally very easy. Unscrew the thumb screw on top, remove old bearing, pull off the wash arm, remove old seal. Then just put new seal on top of pump (check for any burrs and remove with a fine grit emory sand paper) put on the wash arm, insert top bearing and tighten finger nut tight. I had excessive wear (due to age of unit and lower seal not in proper position), so I had to construct a spacer to take up some of the slack. I could not find a nylon washer(and you need nylon) in the stores ready made and did not want rubber or metal washers due to the adverse effects these would have on the new bearing. I improvised. I purchased a pack of 10 nylon wall anchor washers from Menards (after they said no nylon washers were available:) I used 2 inch O.D. washers with 1/4 inch I.D. which was a perfect center hole and used a drill to enlarge center from 1/4 inch to 1 inch I.D. (to fit around the finger nut screw stem), and removed all burrs. Unscrewed top finger nut and placed under nut on top of seal and the 1/8 inch width took up the slack. Problem solved.
When water started splashing under the door and onto the floor, I noticed that the spray arm was wobbling. The retainer nut was broken, so I ordered it as well as the spray arm bearing ring. After I put them on, it still wobbled and splashed water. That is when I studied the diagram on the web page and noticed that my wash arm bearing ring was broken. So, order all 3 of these parts and your dishwasher will be repaired with no effort at all.
Washer arm at the bottom was loose and flopping around and making waves when the bottom was full of water . This caused the dishwasher to appear to leak.For the Washer Arm Bearing Ring, First I removed the bottom drawer. Then I unscrewed the retaining screw with my fingers. and lifted off the wash arm. I then removed and replaced the Wash Arm Bearing Ring which looks like a top hat with the top cut out. The rim of the " hat " on the one I removed had completely worn away and looked like a 3/4 inch cylinder It took a couple. of minutes to figure out which part I really had to replace. I then put back the wash arm and tightened the screw back, replaced the drawer and everythig worked perfectly.For the Spray Arm Feed Tube, I first unscrewed the one screw holding the old tube in place. The old part was orginally in two parts. The new part is only one piece. I placed the new part in its place, and replaced the screw.
Detached lower wash arm and replaced bearing.5 minute fix.
Removed the center screw in, then the wash arm, removed the old seal and replaced it with the new one, replaced the wash arm then the screw in, and was done and ready to try it out.
I unscrewed the remaining part of the retainer nut with my finger and then I removed the old sprayarm seal and replaced it with a new one. Next I removed the wash arm bearing ring and replaced it with a new one. Then finally I screwed in the wash arm retained nut with my fingers. I did all this within 5 mins. I saved alot of money doing it myself. My dishwasher is working great. I love kitched aid dishwashers. I have another one in my 2nd home.
Actually I had taken the dishwasher most of the way apart to clean out some pieces that had gotten to the pump impellor and were making noises when draining. While doing this I found the flange on the wash arm bearing ring was totally wore away. The clips on the tinerow clip had been broke for a while so I went ahead and replaced them too. Both parts were easy to replace requiring no tools. One thing I should mention is that the replacement tinerow clips were gray instead of white.
most everything snapped easly into place only one screw to deal with. very easy repair.
Unscrewed wing nut by hand and remover wash arm. Seals slipped in with out force.
I removed the end clips so I could slide out the upper rack........I recommend doing this carefully inorder to reuse the clips. All the repairs were easy..........at first I thought the lower arm was not tightened enough, but a simple search told me that it is supposed to "wobble".Thank you for making it so easy to find the right parts. You do an excellent job of organizing parts by model #.
unscrewed upper wing nut with fingers replaced the washer arm bearing ring and lower spray arm seal- (a little confused where to place the washer bearing ring since old ring was broken and had slipped down into washer arm.Your schematic showed clearly how to do it. Cost of repair was about $30. I think my local repair shop ( a reputable company ) would have been in the $200 or more range.. Thanks. The letters from other customers were a big help.
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