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PartSelect Number PS11746926
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The drive coupling on my Kitchen Aid Blender shattered into dozens of pieces. Found this website and realized I could buy a new one. Could not remove coupling base with "official" instructions. However, user comments on how they removed coupling base very helpfull. Put thin blade screw driver thru hole on bottom of blender base, held the blade from turning and twisted the coupling base off. Very easy and quick. New one when on just as easily.
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part does not fit this model like it claimed it did. Blade assembly was too small in diameter. This part will cost more to send back for refund. Part did not work. Blender still broken.
All I had to do was replace the part! Service was excellent! Ordered the part and had it the next day and my blender was up and running!!
KitchenAid Blender: The directions said to use a screw driver to pry off the old drive coupling, and then clean out any remaining broken pieces. The drive coupling screws on so that did not make sense to me. I called KitchenAid and they gave me a number of the closest KitchenAid dealer. I was told that I needed to be careful not to bend the drive shaft; I would need to find some way to secure the drive shaft from turning while unscrewing (a reverse screw) the drive coupling. Find the appropriate size thin ignition wrench. Remove the old coupling and screw on the new coupling.
This is my favorite blender and I wasn't willing to buy a new one without trying to repair it. I have replaced other components of the motor but the grooves finally wore out and needed replacement so that the blades would rotate. I really didn't need the dome assembly but thought the new blades would be sharper so, might as well change it too. A flat head screwdriver was recommended for removal of the drive coupling. I found that it was digging grooves into the metal ring in the base - which would not have damaged the operation - so I took an old pair of (very dull) steel calipers, covered the ends and it popped right off. I had it up and running in less than five minutes.
Piece of cake. Part was expensive and shipping likewise. Very fast
First I disconnected the washer and used a shop vac to suck out remaining water throught the effluent tube. I then pulled the washer out from the wall and opened up the panel in the back where I saw a penney in the baffeled catch basin and, a wad of lint wrapped around what looked like three 7" wires. I opened up the top with the putty knife and flipped it bacl. I then proceded to remove the top sections of the tub (soap/bleach dispenser, etc) then I removed the dome using a stubby screwdriver to 'pop' the internal catches. The next thing to come out was the perforated baffel. I could see the blockage through the drain holes in the bottom of the tub. I made a hook out of a coat hanger to extract the wad and 'wires'. Also, a pair of needle nose plires were used to pull the wires through the tub holes. Rhe unit was then re-assembled and has worked fine since. The 'wires', it turned out, were identified by my wife as the wires from some of her underwire bras! They will get handwashed henceforth!
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