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PartSelect Number PS11746855
This part is used to carry water from the circulation pump to the arm.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1. I removed the covers below the door and watched during a wash cycle to see where the water was leaking. There was a small pinhole on the rubber connector at the end of what turned out to be the "top shower hose". I was hoping I could just replace that rubber connector, but apparently it is permanantly attached to the entire "top shower hose" assembly. 2. To remove the top shower hose I first turned of the circuit breaker to the dishwasher. 3. I needed to slide the dishwasher about half way out of the cabinet, requiring removal of two screws at the top of the dishwasher attaching it to the counter. 4. I also had to turn off the water and disconnect the water supply hose (at supply valve, not inside the washer) because it had no slack to allow the dishwasher to slide out of the cabinet. 5. I removed the hose clamp at the bottom of the dishwasher. 6. I removed the top dish rack (there are clips on the ends of the rails that can be opened to allow the rack to come out).7. I popped off the upper washer arm by fiddling with the clip mechanism. Then I removed the threaded "nut" holding the hose in place.8. As others mentioned, it is good to remember to save and re-use the hose clamp and rubber washer.9. Removed the old hose.10. Ordered new hose, waited for delivery. Kids washed dishes by hand for a few days.11. Installed the new hose. Replaced the rubber washer at the top end and fastened with the "nut." Replaced the washer arm and top dish rack.12. Connected the bottom end of hose, re-using the hose clamp.13. Positioned dishwasher back under cabinet and replaced screws.14. Re-connected the water supply hose.15. Turned circuit breaker back on.16. Began using dishwasher again. Observed a few wash cycles to ensure no leaks.17. Re-attached the covers below the door.18. Done.
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First I disconnected the dishwasher electric, water supply and discharge hoses. I then pulled the dishwasher out. After opening the door, I removed the retainer clip holding the upper wash arm, then the nut holding the top shower hose in place. Close the door and lean the dishwasher on its side to get at the underside where the other end of the hose is. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the top shower hose. Reassemble everything in reverse order. In hindsight, I didn't need to buy the new hose clamp or the tub top washer (I reused the originals). Good luck!
The problem was the rubber end on the upper shower head pipe at the pump. Not to hard . Slide dishwaser half way ouy the ptpe is on the right side.The bottom end is is just a clamp the top drops in from the top, inside there is a nut above the upper shower head. You can unsrew the nut with your fingers, it is right above the upper shower head.There it a washer at the top of the pipe that should be replaced that doesnot come with the pipe
I first removed the bottom access panel and 2 upper screws holding the dishwasher to the counter. Be sure to remove the standing water in the bottom tray. I pulled the chassis far enough forward to reach where the top shower hose attaches ( the supply line and wire had enough slack to move the chassis ). Not knowing how the rotating shower arm attached, I unscrewed the ribbed retaining ring above it, and found the whole assembly came loose - freeing the upper end of the shower hose. Put a shallow tray under the lower end of the shower hose to catch the remaining water and loosen the hose clamp to free the remaining end of the hose. Transfer the rubber washer at the top end and the hose clamp at the bottom, to the new hose and install. A quick repair, but one that shouldn't be needed on a 4 year old dishwasher.
I just followed other directions that were on this sight piece of cake. Preperation took longer than the repair.
I had to take the complete builtin dishwasher out of the base cabinet in the kitchen.turn off electricity - circuit boxturn of water supply - turncock under sinkremove kickplate - screw driverdisconnect electric wires - screw driverdisconnect water feed - 5/8 wrenchremove top screws at counter underside - screw driverpull out dishwasher - hands and sonturn dishwasher upside down - hands and songot some water on floor - towel to mop upremove top shower hose ( a rigid pipe with a screw fitting at top and a neoprene coupler at bottom) - handsThe neoprene coupler is the part that failed, it had worn thin due to heavy water flowreverse process - same tools voila - no water leakI replaced a Silverware basket at the same time, which took two mintues as I had to remove the handle from the old basket and press fit onto new one - handsParts Select had the parts I needed and delivered in less than 48 hours. That is great service.
I removed the four screws that hold the front kick plates on. Then, I removed the hose clamp (on the right side of the pump that secures the top shower hose assembly to the pump assembly. Then I pulled the dishwasher out, and pulled out the four black snap clips that hold the insulation in place. I then folded the insulation back and reached inside the dishwasher to disconnect the hose assembly. On the top spray arm is a nut that is easily removed without any special tools.Be sure to save the rubber washer unless you order a new one along with the top shower hose.Overall, an easy fix. Saved about $100.00 by doing it myself.
Turned off electric. Disconnected water supply. Removed screws holding dishwasher to counter top. Lowered leveling feet to get a little more room. Pulled dishwasher half way out of cabinet area. Removed old hose, cleaned tub opening and pump discharge. Installed new hose. Special note: Washer supplied was not correct. Part number in data base is wrong. I used the old washer and some silicone sealant. I could not find the part anywhere. It appears to be a Maytag problem. If the old washer is good, use it. The sealant is a good precaution.
Removed bottom panels and examined below dishwasher. Discovered hole in rubber connector to top supply hose. Ordered part late Wednesday night, it was delivered Friday afternoon. Pulled dishwasher out from under counter far enough to peel back insulation and remove top hose. I had already removed the trays from inside the dishwasher. Carefully removed the retainer clip for the top sprayer arm and used a pair of Robogrips to loosen the nut holding the top hose in place. Re-used the top washer and the clamp for the bottom connection. Tested with a quick rinse cycle and no leaks. It's working fine now.
The repair was very easy. The hardest part was the clean up. Ordering the part was easy. They show a coplete break down of the parts needed. with part numbers. I selected the part. filled out the order form and in 3 days the part arrived. It took me a matter of 1 minute to install the part. This was the easiest repair I have completed!!! Thanks
Replacing the hose was straight forward. However, to remove the top end you must remove the top sprayer. While gently pulling on the sprayer it popped off. There is a plastic piece that holds it in place which broke. Finishing the install was delayed until this part could be obtained. I would recommend that this piece be puchased when the hose is purchased.
Hardest part is removing unit from under counter. Degree of difficulty will depend on how plumbing and electric are connected to unit. In my case the supply hose, electrrical cable and waste hose all had plenty of slack and unit only has to come out about 20" to get to top tub connection. The leak was on the rubber connection that attaches the hard plastic hose to the pump under the tub. That attaches with a standard automotive type screw band clamp. The other end goes into the top of the drum and atttached into the uppper spray arm with a plastic nut (I replaced the rubber washer when changing this side just to be safe.) Level of difficulty for me was easy but if you are not familiar with dishwasher installation and connections, could be time consuming. And obviously had to discern where leak was before ordering parts. I had taped it with black electrical tape as a temporary fix to make sure that was the part that was leaking. It was not obvious as it was just a small pinhole.
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