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11746740-1-S-Whirlpool-WP8577274-Thermostat, Internal-Bias
11746740-1-S-Whirlpool-WP8577274-Thermostat, Internal-Bias 11746740-2-S-Whirlpool-WP8577274-Thermostat, Internal-Bias http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/4LNNCW1Q.gif

Thermostat, Internal-Bias

PartSelect Number PS11746740

Part may differ in appearance, but functions the same as original part. This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, KENMORE®, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Shuts off too soon.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Too hot.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Will not tumble.

Compare At

$25.68

You Save

$4.28

Your Price

$21.40
Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 16 reviews What's this?
1-15 of 16
 

279 of 319 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Socket set
Customer: Steven from East Norriton, PA

Dryer overheated, blew out thermal fuse

I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still overheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!

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23 of 30 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Jim from Tucson, AZ

Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash e1 trouble code

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!

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19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: prem from brandon, FL

Dryer dial when set and turn on it turn off in about 2 minute.

dryer remove bottom panel and r&r thermistor very easy to do. your self diagnose help I could not have done it

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16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Dixon from Santa Fe, NM

Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.

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8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Joyce from Holbrook, NY

When using the dryer the cycle would stop and display e1 as the reason

Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.

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8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Eugene from Columbus, NJ

Switch broke and would not light the refrig compart

The repair descripition was accurate. The difficult part was getting the old switch out. It has a release clip that is hard to reach. It took several tries and a bit of force to get the old part to release from the cabinet.

In stalling the new part was easer that the instructions explaned. There was no need to split the original plug. I unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new and snapped it into place. 30 seconds after I started the reinstall it was in the cabinet and working

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5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Socket set
Customer: Dwayne from Bainbridge, PA

Dryer would shut off mid way through cycle and give an e1 error code

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: ALAN from MIDLOTHIAN, VA

Dryer too hot

I replaced both the thermal fuse and the thermistor at the same time. That seemed to fix the problem; but after a couple of days the dryer would not start. When pushing the Hold to Start button, the dryer just gave one beep and would not start. I did a resistance test on the old thermal fuse, and it was OK; so I put the old thermal fuse back in and the dryer works. Evidently, it was just the thermistor (thermostat, internal bias) that was broken. Both are very easy to change.

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: Rory from LEESBURG, VA

Dryer kept throwing the e1 error indicating the thermistor needed replacement

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Socket set
Customer: Carl from STAUNTON, VA

Dryer would not start

Unplugged dryer, removed bottom front panel, removed fan cover. I used a 1/4 ratchet to remove 2 screws and the old fuse. Installed new fuse, fan cover, and front panel. Dryer works great!

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Michael from ONEONTA, NY

The dryer would shut off mid-cycle.

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Customer: Richard from ABSECON, NJ

Dryer would not heat

Replaced Coil kit and internal bias thermostat. Checked overheat fuse. Still not heat. R/P igniter and igniter thermostat to be sure not bad. Still no light or heat to ignitor. Pulled wires from two thermostats in series where flame comes out and found them burnt and one completely open. Repaired wire and dryer works. Had relied on various videos to get me through process. Parts were not that expensive so I don't really think a waste of money compared to calling a repair person.

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3 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Brad from Wausau, WI

Gas dryer shut off mid cycle in timed cycle mode

Removed the lower front cover of the dryer. Removed the lint filter and removed the cover from the air duct by removing two 1/4" bolts. Removed the two 1/4" bolts retaining the thermistor. Installed the new thermistor and covers.

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27 of 157 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: Ronald from Louisville, KY

Dryer shuts off on any cycle except "air only"

I read in the forums that thermistor replacement fixed this issue 56% of the time. I replaced the thermistor and then ran three loads of clothes through a one-hour dring cycle at the highest temperature and the dryer did not shut off.

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58 of 654 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: April from Verona, WI

Power would come on, but dryer would not start

Put both parts in and it started (not sure if we needed both, but my husband put both in)

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1-15 of 16