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PartSelect Number PS11746563
This would be the main "brains" of the appliance which is activated by selecting a certain function with the touchpad. This part does not include the thermal fuse on the control board.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
It was very simple, no problems replacing the Electronic Board,. PARTS SELECT was very prompt in sending my order and I'm extremely impressed with their service. I would definately use them again.Roy Langdon PS: I also saved about $100.00
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Checked main house circuit breaker to ensure not tripped - was OK. Removed dishwasher lower kick panel to access 120 main feed (make sure main circuit breaker is OFF!) to ensure had 120 volts to unit - OK. Removed upper control panel (6 screws) to access main control board and main fuse. Checked fuse for continuity - no continuity, blown fuse. Continue to inspect main "Control Circuit Board". Found burn marks from over heating on main circuit board at 4 pin connector (tan wire that goes to one of the two door switches). Replaced main circuit board and fuse. Ohm checked heating element to ensure within specs (10-30 ohms) - OK. Cleaned up burned connector by removing terminal CARFEFULLY and cleaned with wire brush. Checked continuity/ohm's of both door switches (should be close to 0 ohms) and cleaned terminals at both door switches to ensure good contact. Reassembled unit, restored power at main house breaker, loaded dishwasher and ran unit through normal cycle. All worked like new! TIP - ensure main water feed coming from spigot is minimum 120 degrees, per manufacturer, as this will aid in shorter cycle times and reduce energy consumption. PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN PERFORMING THIS TASK AS 120 VOLTS IS DANGEROUS!
I read online about a few other people who had the blinking light problem. Suggestions were to press a series of other buttons in sequence. Didn't work. I went to the advice website and paid $24 to be told it was the control board. I ordered a control board. As I was preparing to install it, I noticed a black spot on the ribbon connector that was across two of the printed (?) flat wires. I gently scraped it off. It was shorting the two flat wires. I put it all back together with the old board, and all is working well. It's been a week.
Unscrewed door, removed cover , and removed control panel; the only tricky part of the repair. It slid out by moving it in the opposite direction than it appeared! Once I realized which way it came out, the wiring modules were easily snapped in place; the I just put it all back in reverse order. If I knew how to snap the panel out it would be a 5 minute job. A warrantied replacement would have cost more; how much depends on how much time a repairperson would "clock".
Pulled out the screws to the panel. Did a visual inspection and noticed a burn mark on a terminal on the circuit board. Replaced the board and now had no lights. Made sure the breaker wasn't tripped and than followed power through the dishwasher and it went to the fuse on the circuit board that you have to take from the old board and put it on the new board. Well anyway, the fuse was blown and had to get one of them. Now dishwasher works.
removed old control panel from dishwasher by unscrewing panel inside dishwasher door then replaced with new control panel.
Removed the front control panel and control unit cover. Removed and disconected old control panel and installed the new panel. Very easy project, even though I didn't know what I was doing. Unfortunately this was not the problem. I had to also replace the heater element and Hi-Temp thermostat. Also easy replacements. The "Just Ask" option is well worth the money. It was a great help in diagnosing the problem.
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