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PartSelect Number PS11746562
The thermal fuse is not included on this part. As per the factory: This is a substituted part and should only have 3 terminals. The P4(Y) terminal has been removed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Simple task - remove the front door cover to expose the cover for the control panel which is then also removed. Be sure electricity is disconnected from the appliance, then simply remove the old control board (remove the quick-connect wire harness) and slide the replacement board back in. Reconnect wiring harness, replace cover and door panel, then turn-on electricy. NOTE - I suggest you shut off power at the breaker panel vs. disconnected the direct wiring at the appliance. The reason for this is because the new controller board could be damaged in the process of connecting the wires and any sparking that would take place when working with hot wiring.
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Following advice given on website by previous customers I was able to remove 6 tork screws and check the fuse which was okay. Proceeded to remove the control board and found significant burning on the bottom side. Ordered a new board online Sunday night, shipped Monday by two day Fed Ex, arrived Weds. morning and installed it in less than 10 minutes. Fair price, excellent service and shipping. Thank you and I would buy from you again.
The cycle select buttons on the top of the door worked and would light, however, the power button did not function and did not light. The faulty part ended up not being the control board but the control panel, which included the power button. I spent a good amount of time troubleshooting the problem until I figured this out. The part number was (8531257) Panel-cntl.
Upon replacing the circuit card I found that one of the connectors was burnt. I fixed the connector and installed the new card, but it itermittantly still does not work. I think that the micro switch may be defective.
I replaced the electronic control board,
First- unplug dishwasher.I replace the circuit board by removing the 6 top screws on the door, I needed to gain access to the inside of the door. unplugged the wiring harness, removed old board, replaced with new and connected the harness correctly, reattached the screws.Plugged the dishwasher back up to the power and it now works!
Disassembled the contal panel & replaced electronic controler, put it all back together & ran a cycle & it worked just great. Got rid of the ghost!!!! It hasn't come on by itself once since. .
Besides the circuit board I had to replace the keypad membrane but that meant getting the hole plastic cover. Turned off the power to the Dishwasher first then I removed the front door using the Torque Allen Wrench. From here it was simple enough to disconnect the electrical connections to the switch panel the control board and the door interlock switch. I used a small flat screwdriver to release the tabs holding the switch panel and control circuit board from the plastic cover. Put the switch panel into the new cover along with the control board and the interlock switch. Then reconnected the electrical connections and put everything back together. Put the door back onto the front of the unit and screwed it all together.Turned the power back on the started the dishwasher. Ran fine for the first load and stopped at the end. But the CLEAN light on the switch panel was blinking on and off and I could not get it to turn off and that was preventing me from restarting the dishwasher for another load. I called the help desk and looked on line for a possible cause. Finally someone told me to check the heater cause the CLEAN light flashing was an indication that there was a fault during the cycle and it holds the system in a lock out mode. Haven’t had time to look into it any further so that’s on my to do list. I reinstalled the original control board and just watch the timer and after an hour I turn it off.
After doing research, figured that it had to be the control board. Direction were fine, except that the screws holding the cover to the dishwasher had torx heads. Fortunately, I have a set of those.
Replaced control unit. Front panel now works so can pursue repair of water controls.
Lights were blinking and was unable to make cycle selection so I ordered this part based on KitchenAids reccommendation. Installed part and it did not work, pretty simple. All I did was removed the 6 screws, unplugged the harness, placed new control board and hooked up harness. But did not work so I'm looking for another solution. Just ordered the Thermal Fuse, so we'll see how that works out.
removed 7 screws from inside door removed old control board installed new control board put 7 screws tested dw all set
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