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PartSelect Number PS11746141
This water inlet valve should be located behind the lower kickplate panel in either the right or left corner. The attaching solenoid on the valve will open and close according to the desired amount of water needed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
After removing the kickplate covers from the bottom front of the dishwasher by removing the 2 screws that attached the covers I determined the inlet valve was leaking, I turned of the water and disconnected the electricity from the dishwasher.I rolled the dishwasher from under the counter and removed the water supply line from the elbow at the bottom of the dishwasher inlet valve with an adjustable wrench. We then set the dishwasher on its back to gain easy access to the inlet valve.To remove the inlet valve, Using a philips head screwdriver I removed the one screw holding the bracket and the valve was loose from the dishwasher. Then, two wires were removed from the valve by sliding the clips from the tabs on the valve. The hose that carries the water to the dishwasher was removed by squeezing the clamp with pliers and sliding it onto the hose and pulling the hose from the nipple.With the valve removed from the dishwasher, the elbow for the supply line can be removed from the bottom of the old valve and installed on the new valve using teflon tape to seal the connection.The new inlet valve was then installed by reversing the procedure.Checked to make sure there are no leaks and the dishwasher was good as new.
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First: Turn power to the Dish washer OFF, then remove the two panels at the bottom of the dishwasher.Two: remove the Door face panel for easier access to the inlet-Valve.Three: remove screw that holds Inlet-valve bracket.Four: slide Inlet valve bracket left and back to get out of slots.Five: Holding the Inlet-valve forward loosen and remove water line (copper tube nut / pressure fitting).Six: Remove two wire clipsSeven: Remove platics hose (Spring Clamp)Replace Inlet-Valve and reverse process///
I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.
First removed bottom kick plate cover to reveal the Inlet valve. Saw that it was leaking around the plastic around the solenoid. Turned of the water shutoff valve and unplugged the power cord. Unplugged the two wires from the valve and loosened and removed the tubing going into the valve. Removed two screws that hold the valve assembly to the front frame with a nutdriver. Slide assembly to the right and remove from the two slots. Ordered new valve from Partselect and replaced.
Remove and replace solinoid, remove and replace mico switch. These are the only two electrically controlled devieces controling water flow. Replacing switch without replacing housing takes a soft touch. A small screw driver helps. Electrical connections have a stay in place nipple. Plyers help get thoes off. Parts delivered as promised, correct fit. Phone contact available at order question.Would used this site again.grade 3.5 A=4
Turned off water supply. Then removed water supply line, secondary hose, and screw securing inlet valve. Valve will slide out. Removed brass elbow fitting from old valve. Applied plumbers putty to threads on both ends of elbow and attached to new valve. Installed new valve and secured with screw. Re-attached hose and supply line. Turned water supply back on and checked for leaks.
To perform this repair do the following:1.) Turn off power to the dishwasher2.) Turn off water, disconnect the water supply and drain using adj. wrench and/or nutdriver, remove any contents from inside3.) Remove screws (2) from underside cabinet, remove kick plate from bottom by removing two (2) screws there, pull out washer gently providing slack to drain hose and water line4.) Gently place washer on side, do not invert or lean on the front side, water may enter control panel and damage it5.) Remove the water line from Inlet valve using adj. wrench6.) Disconnect both wires from solenoid.7.) There is one metal screw holding the valve in place, remove it with a nutdriver, slide valve assembly out.8.) Remove the 90 degree brass angle fitting from old valve, this may require some effort. Using thread tape, install fitting on new valve assembly.9.) Replace parts in reverse order, using thread tape on any additional water line fittings requiring it, restoring water and power last.10.) Run a test wash and check for leaks.Hope this helps, it did appear to fix my problem.
I turned off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher. I also shut off the water inlet valve to the feed line.Disconnected the electrical and conduit. Disconnected the drain line and the water feed line to the inlet valve. I made sure I had old towels under the unit to catch any water flowing out of the pipes once disconnected.I removed two screws holding the dishwasher up under the counter edge.Then the dishwasher rolled out of from under the counter, I rolled it over to an area where I had laid down a moving blanket. I noticed the new counterbalance "ropes and pulleys" were a bit different design than the originals so I made sure the new style pulleys would fit and they did. I replaced both sides pulleys and link ropes, then I connected the spring to the rope and pulled the spring back to connect to the rear of the frame of the dishwasher. Door fixed!The inlet valve is a piece of cake, just removed one screw and the electrical connector and replaced, reversing the process.I cleaned up under the counter where the dishwasher mounts and also shot some "Foam" into some areas where I think sounds might have been leaking into the living room on the back side of the counter, I figured it could not hurt to seal off those areas to prevent as much sound as possible from entering the other living space. I reversed the process installing the dishwasher and then ran a cycle making sure that no water was leaking from the inlet or the drain lines.It all seems to be working now.While the dishwasher was out I wanted to figure out what this "Clunk" was every time you opened the door was, turned out it was something to do with the door catching the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwashers and then it would clunk as it sprung back. I just used my hands and kinda bent the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwasher back in and now they don't touch and the clunk is gone. So for about $60.00 in parts and 1.5 hours of my time the dishwasher is back in operation.
Decided to remove diswasher from built-in space to make part changeout easier and to check drain, wiring and change out water supply line. Since we had installed ceramic tile unit was a little hard to remove. Had to adjust front height as low as possible to get out. Once unit was out parts change went smoothly. Reinstalled and ran through entire cycle. No leaks!
Disassebled diswasher to get to main pump motor, goal was to test Ohms of motor for failure. After disassembling to get to motor it freely turned and checked good per specifications. However, chopper blade connected to motor was locked up, preventing the motor from turning thus not turning the pump. During disassembley of chopper unit, the old rubber Water Inlet Valve was broken. A large seed was wedged behind the chopper preventing it from turning. Afer reassembley and installing new Water inlet Valve all works well. This project was more than I expected when I started and was not in any instruction manual to figure it out. However, if I couldn't make it work nothing would be lost other than my time and the expense of a new dishwasher which I was already looking at if I was not able to repair it. Most appliances are relatively simple if you have some understanding of electrical units and basic tools to work on them. PartSelect is a great resource for replacement parts with great shipping services.
I tried to rule out other possibilities (jammed float, crud in the spray arm, clog in water lines going in to the washer) but I think I messed up. Replacing the inlet valve was easy, but it now looks like a motor problem. The next job may be DIY, but I am afraid the pros are coming in to bail me out.
I replaced the electric water valve (as suggested) It was in front of the unit, so it didn't need to be pulled out. I had to disconect the water line, and a by-pass line. The hard part was disconecting this rubber hose, as it was in back of the valve. Installed the part, connected the lines and two wires...No noise, works great....
I unplugged the dishwasher from the wall outlet, then pulled it out from under the kitchen cabinet. I then plugged the washer back in and turned it on to find the source of the leak. Not knowing the name of the part that leaked, or even its function, I decided to look it up on the Internet. After checking two kitchen appliance/parts website, I found the PartSelect site, and it was perfect: all I had to do was input the manufacturer and type of appliance and select the part from the list of illustrations. Very easy! I ordered the part, received it within a week and installed it on my son's used dishwasher in less than 15 minutes.
I lake to send you pictures -- Stanley --
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