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PartSelect Number PS11745467
This clip attaches the tinerow to the rack. Sold individually.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This part is extremely delicate if put in or if you try and force it on. You will break more than you fix. There is a definite trick and when you know it, the installation is (no pun) a snap. The trick is to place the small plastic in such a position that the only "snap' required for installation is on the heaviest and thickest port of the small part. Then carefully use the pliers to pinch only between the plastic covered bar and the heavy part of the plastic clip...blip, it goes right on. Try it any other way and you will break more than you can fix....
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Bottom wash arm bearing and seal were severely worn and leaking. Replaced in about one minute with new parts from PartSelect.com, and took the opportunity to clean out the arm -- stringy, fibrous matter was clogging two jets.Top arm horizontal rubber supply tube was disintegrating and leaked. Replace with Spray Arm Kit -- this took maybe two minutes! Lastly, two to of the upper right-rear folding rack tine clips were broken -- replacement was difficult as the old, broken clips were very stiff and came off only after much physical persuasion! New clips were installed easitly -- in a "snap". Time ~ 5 minutes.Best of all, the new parts were delivered to my home within 36 hours of my internet order. I thought the prices were fair, too. Thanks.
There were two somewhat difficult parts: identifying the correct clip (first time I got it wrong and had to reorder), and attaching the new clips in the proper orientation without breaking them. The correct clips have a snap-in feature to hold a wire fence upright. Two tines of the fence snap into the clip, which attaches to the lateral wires in the upper basket.To remove the broken clips, I pressed the flat blade of a large screwdriver against the open side of each, noting which wire each came from. I measured the distance between the two wires for the next step.To install the new clips, I first attached them to the moveable fence. This is because (1) the clip has extremely complex geometery and it took a while to figure how it should be installed (I had no model because the old clips were completely destroyed) and (2) the notch for the fence is quite rigid on one side, and quite delicate on the other, and it took a bit of force to get the the thick bottom wire of the fence to seat properly without breaking the delicate part of the clip. There is no way to put the fence into the clip if you have first installed it onto the wire basket without breaking the clip because the beefy side is not flexible. I used the flat blade of the screwdriver on the beefy side and pinched the bottom of the fence into it with my thumb. Each clip must straddle one of the tines of the fence, so the tine can swivel into the upper part of the clip to stand upright. This is definitiely a spatial relationship challenge and it took a few minutes of trial, error, and visualization to figure out. You must also be sure that the tines you select correspond to the distance between the two locations on the wire basket where they will attach.Once the clips were on the fence, I rotated the fence so that the tines locked. Then I attached the clips to the basket, using the flat of the screwdriver blade and a steady pressure to snap it on.
I read a couple of stories about how easy these are to break when installing. So I used extra care, and made sure to push carefully in just the right places. What worked for me was raising the tines of the cup rack to apply some leverage as I squeezed the clips into place with my fingers. No tools. No broken clips. No injuries. No cursing.
First, I removed the tines which were still connected to the top rack by the unbroken parts of 3 clips. (The part of the clip which is subject to breakage is the top, where it allows the tines to be clipped up or released and laid down.) I left the broken clips on the rack as a guide to where to install the new ones. I then attached the new clips to the tines, which is like assembling a puzzle. It would be helpful to replace one clip before all 3 break, so you have an illustration, but it's fairly easy to figure out how to attach the clip as long as you realize the tines need to be released and folded down, or clipped in the up position. With all 3 clips attached to the tines, simply pop the broken clips off the rack and attach the tines to the rack with the new clips. I appreciate the advice from the users who warned against breaking the clips with a tool. It's not really necessary to soak them in hot water. My advice is to use only fingers for installation. Brute force is not necessary... just position and pinch.
Very easy to snap in. I would recommend to make them more slippery to snap in. Maybe use a little soap or place them in hot water before you place them on dishwasher tray.
No problem. Just snapped new parts in place. My wife has been after me for 2 years to fix this. I had it looked up on the internet an ordered and paid for in 10 minutes 3 days later the parts arrived and in 10 minutes job was done.
Removed top rack from dishwasher, removed broken clips - 2 out of three were snapped, and replaced them with FOUR - spaced more regularly to take the stress since this is the second time 2 out of the 3 had snapped. Simple job; rack swings well now, folds easily and clips securely upright.
The clip configuration combined with how the tine bar was suppose to snap in and out of the clip was actually quite confusing but once I was able to figure out how to slip the clip onto the tine bar the repair took less than 10 seconds.
Loosen the front of the chassis with two screws in at the top after removing the tip of the chassis. The plastic top bearing around the dryer drum, drum slides affixed to that bearing had worn out. I ordered the parts along with a bearing kit for the center rear of the drum. All were easily replaced once the parts arrived (the next day from ordering!). I also replaced the felt around the front of the drum which was worn. Finally, I 'greased' the idler pulley close to the motor and reassembled all. It works like a champ!
Actually I had taken the dishwasher most of the way apart to clean out some pieces that had gotten to the pump impellor and were making noises when draining. While doing this I found the flange on the wash arm bearing ring was totally wore away. The clips on the tinerow clip had been broke for a while so I went ahead and replaced them too. Both parts were easy to replace requiring no tools. One thing I should mention is that the replacement tinerow clips were gray instead of white.
Ray from San Rafael, CA said to apply them to the thick bottom wire of the moveable fence. That is what we did. We used the old broken ones as a guide to where they should be placed on the moveable fence. Then, we followed Richard from Larkspur, CO's advice to pinch them on using pliers. Worked like a charm! Thanks very much!
Found it best to take the tinerow out altogether and put the new clips into it. First fit the upper part of the clip on the tinerow, then the middle clip. Laslty put the three clips onto the main carriage.Looking at how the clips were on the tinerow on the right hand back side helped.
The wash arm parts were the most functionally important. These just snap into place. I was amused to see that the lower spray arm seal no longer even resembled the shape of the original part. My seal had worn to the shape of a thin fingering. The dish rack clips were a little more challenging. Snapping off the old ones was straightforward but figuring out the proper orientation of the new clips required a little thought. However, I like puzzles.
I pulled the top tray out by unhooking the end clips. Replacing the broken clips that hold the swivel racks was a breeze The top spray arm was replaced with two screws.
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