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PartSelect Number PS11744913
Used with some front load washers. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Pulled out machine...removed top panel..unscrewed existing valve and removed it...then reversed the whole process with the new valve..it was very easy to do and worked perfectly...no more water in tub!
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1. Removed the 4 screws across the top of the back of the washer which hold on the washer top.2. slightly lift the backside of the washer top and pull/ slide to the back to remove. Top will unlatch and and lift off.3.Remove the star screw that attaches the water valve to the back of the washer.4. Remove hose clamp and 4 wire clips from water vale assembly and replaced with new valve. 5. Reverse order to reassemble.
Turn off both hot an cold water supply valves. Unscrew both hot and cold supply hoses from rear of washer making note of which inlet they came off of. Pull washer out to access screws to remove top cover and water inlet valve. Remove top cover unscrewing 3 torx screws on the rear of the washer. Unplug the 4 wires wires from water inlet valve - make sure you remember which pairs go to which solenoid. Remove 1 phillips head screw that secures the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Remove water inlet valve. With a pair of pliers loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the inlet valve. Take the new water inlet valve and loosen hose clamp with pliers and push the hose onto the barbed fitting as far as it will go. Make sure hose clamp is over barbed fitting securing the hose. Attach both pairs of wires to the solenoids in the same position that you removed them. Position water inlet valve into place and secure with phillips screw. The part that I received did not quite line up with the hole on the rear of my washer so I had to elongate the existing hole on the rear of the washer with a drill so I could secure the water inlet valve as designed. Screw on both water supply lines making sure the hot and cold are screwed back on to the right inlets. Turn both water supply valves on and test looking for leaks. Secure the top cover back on with the 3 torx screws and push washer back into place. Viola! Ready for the next load of wash.
The Part Select website has some great information provided by customers. I search my error code problem that shut down the washer when filling and found the most likely scenario was a faulty flowmeter.The other problem happening at the same time was the drum filling with water when the appliance was not in use. I thought the two problems were related, but upon further research decided that the most likely cause was a faulty water inlet valve.I order the parts from Part Select and I could not believe how fast the shipping was. I just ordered regular ground but the parts got here in a couple of days.The repair was easy. Remove four screws (need a star bit) from the top lid of the washer and remove the cover. The flowmeter and the water inlet valve sit right on top of the washer. Even with the lousy set of pliers I used, removing the clamps and disconnecting the hoses on both parts was easy off and easy back on. I had more trouble with the electrical leads on the water inlet, only because they were on so securely and I didn't want to rip out the wiring.All together the repair for both parts took about 30 minutes.Make sure you turn off the water supply and be ready to mop up a little excess water from the water supply lines when you disconnect them from the washer's water inlet valve.
Very simple repair:- Turn off water and detach water supply hoses. (Good to have a bucket nearby to catch water left in hoses.)- Remove 3 screws from the back of the lid; slide lid back 1" and lift off.- Valve is mounted just under the lid on the back wall of the washer -- remove 1 screw from back of washer that holds valve assembly in place.- Remove the 4 electrical connectors (2 black & 2 white) I numbered them with a sharpie so I wouldn't forget how to reattach them. :-)- Use pliers to squeeze & slide the little hose clamp that holds the internal hose on the valve assembly. Once the clamp is out of the way, pull the hose off the valve assembly.- Reverse the process to install the new valve assembly.I ran into a little problem mounting the new valve assembly. The screw hole in the back of the washer did not line up with the mounting hole in the valve assembly. I had to drill a 3/16" hole just to the right of the original screw hole on the back of the washer. Used the new hole to mount the valve assembly, done.
This washer had been faulting since it was 1 year old but it only happened 1 to 2 times a year. As the fault problem became more often, I realized it was a hardware or computer malfunction. But what was the problem? Well the problem always was a faulty flow meter. I replace the valve and the flow meter. But I tested the flow meter several times.-- I replaced the flow meter and the valve. And for once in 5 years it did not fault.
Turned off the water and unplugged the machineTook off the top of the washing machine by removing three screws along the back sideRemoved the hoses connected to the water inlet valveRemoved the hose coming out of the water inlet valveMarked the 4 electrical connectorsUsed plyers to pull the electrical connectors off. Needed to just pull hard. Won't break them off.Remove the screw that connects the valve to the back of the appliance.I confirmed this was the part causing the problem by blowing air through it with my mouth. I could tell that the hot water side was not closing all the way.To replace the part, just repeat the steps above in reverse.
following the procedure was easy except the alignment of the new valve was off by 1/4 inch and I had to drill an additional hole to reuse the screw for attachment. Piece of cake otherwise.
Unplugged and disconnected water lines. Removed three machine screws on the back edge of the washer top. Lifted the back and then pulled it to release it from the front. Removed 1 screw from the back next to the hot water connection. Slide the water valve assembly over to the left if you are standing in front of the washer and it pops out. Then slide the hose clamp for the small hose off and use flat head screw driver to pry hose loose. Then use flat head to gently work connectors off. Then reinstall everything in reverse order. Reconnect water lines turn on water and watch water leaks before cover is reinstalled.
Repair was very simple. First watch the video that is available on this website. The installation went exactly like the video described. I pulled the washer away from the wall a few inches. Removed the three screws that hold the top on. Removed the top. Shut off the water and removed the water lines. Removed the single screw that holds the inlet valve in place (T20 torx).Removed the inlet valve, removed the hose from the valve. Reversed the operation to re-install. About a 20 minute job, tops. Tested the washer when finished and it worked great. It has been a couple of weeks now and no water has accumulated in the drum.
Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped. Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.
I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.
Replaced inlet valve. Took top cover off. Accessed inlet valve. Removed hoses. Replaced valve. Works like a charm.Corrected problem
Removed hot/cold water hoses from back of washer at water inlet valve. Pulled off top of washer by removing 3 screws at back of panel. Noted that water inlet valve had been damaged in move from storage. Pulled off 4 wires, 2 for hot and 2 for cold. Removed 1 screw holding inlet valve assembly to frame. Used pliers to release retainer ring on hose. Removed hose from valve outlet. Reversed process to install new valve.
Simple repair. #20 Torx, pair of pliers and 10 minutes to complete the job. Part was exact fit. Turned off the water supply, removed the three screws at the back, slid the top to the back and lifted it off to reveal the valve. Removed the screw holding the valve in place, slid the valve to the right and pulled the valve out to the inside. Used pliers to move the hose retainer off the valve, removed the hose, unplugged the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new valve.
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