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PartSelect Number PS11744496
This part is used for the 6" and 8" burners.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will still function the same.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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Simple Repair!Turn off PowerRemove four screws under panel.Remove old burner knob.Drop Burner Panel from rangeRemove 5 wire connectors from old burner control with pliersRemove 2 screws that held burner control to range panelInstall new burner controlRplace two screws to burner controlReplace 5 wire connectors to new burner controlReplace 4 screw under panelReplace knob to new burner controlTurn on electricityMade wife happy!
shut off power , remove vent cover, 2 screws to free the switch box , there was enough slack to turn it over , idendtify switches to be replaced , double check you got the right ones , got em , nut driver for the fan switch, torex for the burner switch , test ,put it back together , and clean up , no more than a half hour . order parts on monday , delivered on tuesday afternoon with 3-5 day shipping. thanks guys
The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the glass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.
First step is turn the power to the range off. Then I removed the grate covering the down draft vent in the center of the cook top. Inside the vent opening are two screws that secure a panel that holds the four knobs that control temperature settings. Remove these screws. Slide the panel tward the back of the range while lifting it up. This will allow removal of the panel. Remove the knob from the burner control you are replacing. Under the knob are two screws. Remove the screws and let the controller drop out of the cover panel. Take the new switch and carefully remove the wires from the old controller and place them on the new controller in the same position. When the wires have been connected, put the controller back in the control panes and secure it with the two screws. Replace the panel back into the cook top. Tilt the control panel so the front is low and the back is elevted. Engage the lugs protuding out on each side of the control panel opening. Lower the panel back into the opening and secure it with the two remaining screws. Replace the control knob and you are done. You just saved yourself a $125.00 service call. Total cost for the controller $35.00.
Shut down the power so I would not be surprised, removed the four front screws on panel. lifted burner knob panel to expose screws holding infinite switch and wires, easy replacement.Even the size of the clips would not let you place them on the wrong prongs. plugged in new brurner and cooking steaks once again. Disapointed in visa's additional "International charge" of $2.83 and then $3.83 to purchase these items, but overall they were great people to deal with.
I changed out the infinite switch without any problems. The indicator light was another problem. It wasn't the light that was bad, it was the indicator light lens that snaps into the panel. The light then attaches to the lense. The lense broke and the indicator light pulled away with the tension on the wires. Now I have to order replacement lens and will have a spare indicator light.
Shut off breaker! Important as switch connectors can easily come in contact with range when dropping control panel out of range face. Removed 4 screws underneath control panel & above oven door. Panel drops out easily. Removed end caps (4 small screws). Reinstall end caps on new touch-control panel. Removed screws from old circuit board/clock to instal new circuitboard/clock on new touch-control panel. Attach ribbon cable from touch panel to circuit board (easy connector, lift ends of connector to raise shim-like piece, insert ribbon, push shim-like piece back in). Remove 2 star screws at each switch(x4) shaft on old panel. Reinstall switches on back of control panel, reinsert screws from front to each switch. And extra set of hands is handy to hold panel while positioning switch and driving screws. Return reassembled control panel to position, drive screws in underneath. Turn breaker back on. Done.
1. Removed all four switch knobs (to be replaced with new knobs purchased with the replacement switch.(unnecessary if you are not going to replace all the knobs) 2. Removed the switch plate assembly by removing two sheet metal screws.3. Inverted plate assembly and removed five wires and then removed two additional screws that secured the faulty switch to the plate assembly.4. Reconnected the five wires and attached the new switch to the plate assembly.5. Re-positioned the assembly on the cooktop and secured with the two sheet metal screws.GAME OVER!
removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from
It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly. First killed power the electric stove. I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .
First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on. I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity. I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............
Finding part needed and quick shipping were great. Web site so helpful. Initial attempt to remove old part was troublesome because I took out wrong screws thinking I had to remove parts beneath burner. Once I figured it out, it was so easy.1. Turn off power.2. Remove 4 screws BELOW control panel (open oven door to see them) 3. Pull off 7 front knobs.4. Lift out loosened panel.5. Take out the two screws holding control switch to front panel. Note orientaion of switch.6. Replace wire by wire to new switch.7. Put it all back together. Make sure switch is put in same direction.8. Turn power on.
Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select
The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.
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