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PartSelect Number PS11744496
This part is used for the 6" and 8" burners.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will still function the same.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.
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Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.
Parts arrived very quickly & the installation was quick & easy. Will order again.
switch went wellremoved 4 screws and lifed front panal up and out
Opened the back of the cooktop and found upper right element control switch burned. I removed the retaining screws and wires and spent two weeks chasing the switch at a local dealer. Found exactly what I needed at PartSelect.com and paid less even with shipping than at the local. Installed the switch with original screws and presto!! it worked.
Remove 4 screws that holds down panel;removed dial;removed screw that held switch to panel. Took off wire one at a time ann put on corresponding lug. Repeated above in reverse.
switch power supply off at breaker panelunscrew control box assembly from stoveslide control out of stoveunscrew burner control out of assemblytransfer wiring from old control to new in same relative locationreassemble in reverse orderrestore powertest burner in all positions
Looked up schematic. Removed 3 screws holding cover. after I shut power off of course. Took off knob. Oriented new control to the one on panel. Disconnected each wire one at at time and immediately attached it to the new control for each wire. Removed screws holding old control and inserted and screwed to the new control and put the knob back on. Put the cover back on. Worked fine. Probably should replace the others as they don't turn as easily as the new one. Probably will spray some contact cleaner which will give me a few more years.
Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.
1. Pressed new door strike into access panel replaced access panel.2. Turned off power to stove at main power switch panel. Opened access panel and decoupled down draft fan discharge duct. Pulled range out of counter about 3 inches to clear instrument panel side plates. Removed knob from control switch. Removed 4 screws retaining trim at bottom of instrument panel. Removed 4 screws holding instrument panel in place. Lowered instrument panel. Rotated panel top outward to expose surface burner infinite control switches. Checked all connections to suspect control switch with voltmeter to ensure no residual voltages present. Held new switch in same position as installed switch and swapped connections one at a time. Removed two screws holding old switch in panel and removed old switch. Installed new switch in panel using the two screws removed. Re-assembled range in reverse order above and slide back into counter. Recoupled downdraft fan discharge duct and reattached access panel. Reattached conrol switch knob. Restored power to range at main power switch panel. Turned control switch to High until element was red hot. Turned control knob to Low and verified element heat was reduced normally. (Control switch failure was determined by changing stove top elements and experiencing the same high only heating and loss of heat control. A small jar was used to hold all screwa as removed.)
I removed 2 screws to release the plate that held four the switces. I removed 2 screws to release the bad switch. I removed one wire at a time and connected the to the same post on the new switch, screwed the switch into place and reinsalled the mounting plate. The stove works fine.
The repair is very easy. Part Select is awesome as far as getting you to the right parts. Just remember that when you do a repair with electricity that you take the time to shut off all possible power sources. I did not and got lucky that I did not injure myself because I did not know the fan switch was also bad. This caused a direct contact with a metal part on the control switch housing while I was disassembling the stove top control. Take your time and think. Should have no problems. Norbert.
First I located the proper breaker in my electrical panel to turn off the power to the cook top. Then I removed the two screws that hold the housing of the burner knobs and fan switch and lifted it up as much as the attached wires would allow me. To replace the Infinity Control Switch I removed the two "star" head screws from top of housing (under knob) which allowed me to pull the switch off of housing. I pulled off each wire, one at a time, and attached them to the identical place on the new control switch. With all the wires reattached I installed new switch into hole and replaced the 2 screws. To replace the fan switch I removed the 2 nuts on back of housing which allowed me to drop down the switch, swap the wires onto the new switch and place it back onto the bolt posts and reattach the nuts. Finally I turned the breaker back on and tested both new parts to make sure the problems had been corrected. Cook top works perfectly now.
We unplugged the range from the wall first so as not to get electrocuted. We removed the face of the control panel by removing the screws and 2 hex nuts underneath that hold it in place, and removed the trim. Then we disconnected the malfunctioning control switch, taking note of what order the wires go in. Hooked the new switch up and popped it through the face of the control panel. We then put the trim back, and reattached the control panel with the screws. Very easy!!
Changed out surface burner switch.Unscrewed two screws, changed plug onto new switch.Don't forget to turn off power!
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