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PartSelect Number PS11744309
This switch controls the speed of the fan.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First, the Sears repairman diagnosed the switch as broken, and told us that th part, if it were available, would be $150 plus labor. However, he said it was not available, so we'd need to get a new counter top stove all together. Not.I came to Parts Select, and I found the fan control switch listed here (if you found this story, you've found the right part). In one day, I had the part in my hand...the part that Sears said didn't exist. First, I turned off the main fuse switch controlling the stove top! Very important! Then I tried to heat up the elements to verify that the electricity was disconnected.I removed the glass top, then the pan, then removed the side screws that hold the flange in place, the same flange thae holds the knob control area in place. Then I removed the knobs (they just pull right off). Then I removed the knob control area. A small nut holds the fan control switch in place. Remove that, then the switch is loose under the control area. There are 4 wires, but two are connected to each other, so don't panic! Swap them out for your new part, and at this point, very carefully, turn on the main electric again and verify that the switch works. It should.Turn off the electricity again, then mount the switch up under the control area. There should be a little, bitty tab on the control switch box that fits perfectly into the metal control panel, just to the left of the hole for the stem of the control switch--proof that this switch is meant to be used on this Jenn Air Expressions model CVEX4100/4270/4370 series counter top. Then reverse the steps to replace all the panels, knobs, pans and elements, and you can cook without smoking up your kitchen, all for thousands less than a brand, new appliance.Oh, one more thing. The nut around the old switch cannot be used on the new switch. However, you can use a nut from a coaxial cable fitting! It is the same thread count. I used mine from an RCA In Line F Connector 4 pack...part number VH664N.
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I looked up the part on the web site and ordered it. When it arrived, I unscrewed the control face plate and got access to the switch. The new switch did not match the old one. I called Jenn- Air parts, and they said it was the correct one. although the switch looked different. (The old one looked like it had 4 connections. After closer look, it had three connections all on one terminal.) I installed the new one and it worked. If you replace your fan switch, be careful. The new one is different than the old one, but it works fine.
Took the modules out of the cooktop. Removed all screws in the metal trim piece around the top of the cooktop. Removed the trim piece. Removed screws that held in the control panel and lifted control panel out. Removed screws holding on the top black glass cover of the control panel. Unhooked and removed the broken switch. Went to order replacement part... The switch for the cooktop was No Longer Available - tried everyone! DH had a great idea - look at the part they use in the newer cooktops and see if it might work. Ordered it with fingers crossed. Spec's on part checked out. Had to extend one of the connection receptors. Hooked up the switch and tested - Voila! Put everything back together and all is well. Dont have to replace a really good cooktop, even though it is 15 years old!!!
Shut off the power at the fuse box.Removed the IR unit.Removed the (4) surface unit control knobs.Removed the 3 screws (philips) that hold the control strip in place.Loosened the old switch with a 1/2 " wrench.Removed the control strip,Removed the old switch, moved the wires from the old switch to the new switch, it was a bit different, but although at first glance it looks like there are multiple connections for the blue wires, they are all interconnected, on both the old and the new switch.Mounted the new switch in the control strip, then when testing it (no power yet) I found out I had mounted it wrongly (Off was now on top) I turned the switch, mounted the control strip and all the knobs.Turned the power back on and everything worked as designed.One word of caution, I used my lathe to drill out the broken stem from the original control knob (did not want to spend the $$ for a new one) if you do not have the tools to do that I suggest you buy that knob also when you order your new switch.
The repair was very easy, but you did not supply the nut that hold the switch in place, and the one that was on the switch was a different size. Therefore we had to go to a store and beg them to look through old stock to find a nut that worked.
neighbor did it. removed glass cooktop in order to access the switch. removed switch. replaced with new one. replaced glass cooktop
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