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PartSelect Number PS11743900
This electronic clock assembly is seven and a half inches long. It is three inches wide and is intended for use with a range's control panel.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1. Turned off the circuit breaker for the oven.2. Opened oven door used a phillips screwdriver to remove four black screws from under the top panel.3. Lifted panel slightly & removed from oven.Removed four screws using 1/4" nut driver to remove old display unit. Disconnected three wire harnesses.4. Connected three wire harnesses to new display unit & replaced four nut screws. 5. Hang the top panel on the top of oven & replace four screws removed in step 2.6. Turn on the circuit breaker for the oven.("Very easy! I'm a 63 yr. old woman!)
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First I turned off the power at the breaker. Then I removed the 4 screws holding the panel in. These screws are located under the panel and accessed when the oven door is opened. The only caution is not to take all the screws out. Just the 4 that hold in the front panel.The panel came off by lifting it and pulling it slightly forward. Then I removed the 3 wiring harnesses. I then used a 1/4 inch socket wrench to remove the (4) screws and replaced the clock unit with the new one. I tightened the 4 screws, re-installed the wiring harnesses and swung the panel back in place . I then locked it in place with the 4 screws on the bottom of the panel. When I turned on the power and my wife saw the lit up clock she was so happy! End of story.
This was soooo easy, yes even you Mr. All thumbs, can do it. First it was nice to receive the exact parts I needed from PartsSelect. I needed to take the 4 screws that held the wall oven in place and pull it out about 1". Then, using a battery powered screw driver I removed 4 screws for under the Clocks panel, (you'll need to open the door, can you handle that?). After you've done that simply lift the Glass up and off by grasping the panel and with thumbs on the bottom tilt bottom toward you as you lift up, comes right off. Now disconnect the wire ribbons (4 of them) to seperate the panel from the oven and set the panel down on a towel on the table. Now using a nut driver take out 4 "nuts" and replace the clock card. Be sure to wipe off the INSIDE of the glass panel while you have the card out, and wipe the cards glass so the digital readout will be crystal clear. Re-assemble in the reverse order and you are done. Should take you less then 15 minutes and your wife will think you are a hero! (or you wives can do it and impress the husband!)
Two separate problems. The display gradually dimmed over time and finally went out completely. It was really easy installing the new display module. I analyzed the old one and found an 68uF electrolytic capacitor (<$1) that was bad. Don't know if any other component was bad. In looking at the display module it seems it was way over-priced at over $200. The second problem is that one of the small burners had a open heating wire. The installation of the new burner was OK except the new unit did not have any clips to hold it in place. I couldn't transfer the old clips over. So I just placed it under the holding bracket and hoped that it wouldn't move while I was putting the unit back in place and it didn't. So that is working OK now.
1. Turn off the circuit breaker for the oven2. Open oven and using a phillips screwdriver remove four black screws from under the top panel. 3. Lift panel slightly and remove from oven. Disconnect three wire harnesses.4. Remove the old display unit by taking out the four screws using a 1/4" nut driver.5. Install the new display unit using the four screwsfrom step 4.6. Hold the top panel close to the top of the oven and attach the three wire harnesses.7. Hang the top panel on the top of the oven and replace the four screws removed in step 2.8. Turn on the circuit breaker for the oven.
First I did it wrong-then I came and read how the 64 yr old lady it and she was spot on. First-turn off power to unit. Take off the 4 screws holding the upper part with the clock in it . (OPen the oven door for access) Then lift up slightly and pull the upper unit out. CLock is right there held on by 4 1/4 inch screws. Remove screws, unplug wiring and reinstall using reverse procedures. Then turn power back on. REady to go
Searching the internet, I found the part I needed for the lowest price at PartSelect.com. I reviewed the exploded parts diagram for my oven at PartSelect.com to get a general overview of how the oven was assembled - then I read the customer stories to get some hints from those who had done this repair before. My oven is a combination wall oven with a microwave on top. First, I shut off the power to the oven at the breaker box and then removed the thin, long rails from each side of the oven using a philips screwdriver to remove the 4 screws. This then allowed me to remove the plastic faceplate from around the microwave. Opening the oven door, I found 4 philips pan head screws underneath the control panel and removed them. The control panel will then easily lift up and then out. There are 3 areas where you must disconnect electrical connections on the control module - pay a bit of attention here, but they are sized differently and are not hard to match back up appropriately when you reconnect them to the new module. These connection plugs pull straight out with no tool needed. The old control module is held in place with 4 hex-head screws I removed with a nutdriver. After you remove the old module, it is a good time to clean the inside of the clear diplay area of the front panel with a paper towel dampened with a bit of window cleaner. Allow this to dry and then install your new control module reversing the procdures you used to remove it and reverse the procedures to reinstall the control panel, the microwave faceplate and the side rails. Cut the power back on and sit back as your wife finally thinks you are the genius that you truly are........
Screws removed from below panel. The most difficult procedure was removing the panel from the oven unit to get to the part. After lifting up and out, the panel back was revealed. Disconnected old part by pulling the three connections and replacing with new part.
Replacing the electronic Clock Assembly was a piece of cake - just as earlier DIYers had experienced.The door hinges were not any harder to replace, but it does not affect the behavior of the door. The light stays on unless we keep the door closed with a hook and anchor ( bent piece of metal and a wooden wedge). Not pretty, but effective. Obviously a design flaw... keeping door closed in this way forces all airflow to top and has melted the paint into a wrinkled surface. We had a service person replace the gasket seal and hinges before, but the problem still persists. I did discover that soaking the light cover in a cola drink overnight did a splendid job of cleaning off the gunk.
Turned off power at beaker box. Opened oven door. Removed four screws from botton of display panel. Lifted display panel up and out to remove. Unplugged three wire bundles from back of circuit board. Removed four screws holding circuit board and replaced circuit board. Reassembled panel. Turned power back on. Presto.....saved $200.00 from repair estimate.
Same as the others to get to the bad clock. My old part was a circuit board which was made with white material and manufactured by RoberShaw. The new one was on a green material and by another manufacture. The new one felt a little heavier and look like there were more componets on it. However the plug-in connections and the mounting method was exactly the same. Before reassembly, I used a long handled brush to clean out most of the baking gunk thathad accumulated in this area and I used a clean wipeing cloth to clean the inside glass for the display. The best thing about this was the part came on the Thursday beforeHollowee, I installed it as soon as I got home from work. My wife started baking cookies and cup cakes for trick ortreat and all is well.
I removed the four screws holding the control panel to the oven. I then lifted off the panel and rested it on the the oven rack which I set in the top position and pulled out about a foot. Next, I removed the three plug in cables and removed the two screws from the frame that was holding the clock assembly in place. I put in the new part and reversed the procedure. Total time to replace part was six minutes.
Removed the display panel with 4 screws. Then disconnected the wires and plugged in the new display panel. Turned on the power again and it was brand new.
I took out 4 screws under the display panel. Lifted the panel up and off the oven. It was connected to 3 or 4 plugs on the control panel. I unplugged them and un screwed the control panel and screwwd the new panel in replugged the wires into the panel. walla it worked.
Followed the very clear instructions written by others who also had a combination microwave/oven. Complication encountered because my oven is built into the cabinetry right next to a built-in refrigerator that protrudes by several inches. No room to get a screwdriver in to loosen the screws for the faceplate of the microwave on one side in order to remove the oven's display panel. Luckily had just the tip of a Phillips head and used pliers to carefully turn it just a bit with each turn until screw came out. Also didn't have the right tool to loosen the clock display little hex screws and used pliers for that as well. It was tough to get two of the electrical connections out--had to be careful wiggling them free so as not to break the wires. Finally used a tiny little flathead screwdriver to gently work each side up a bit until the whole connection could be pulled out. Took longer than it needed to.
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