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PartSelect Number PS11743765
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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My wife had been complaing about excessive noise from our 25 year old dryer so after DISCONNECTING the dryer from the wall outlet I popped the top panel loose @ the front with a screw driver @ each front corner @ took a look. No cause was visible so I removed the rear cover & still nothing so I laid the dryer on it's back to remove the front cover. First the 2 wires to the door switch were disconnected then the 2 screws @ the top corners that hold the front panel to the side panels were removed. The front panel then slid up & lifted off exposing the front of the drum, belt & support pulleys. Upon inspection I found the bottom support pulley sleeve bearing to have worn out. Both pulleys were replaced because they only come as a pair now along with the tensioner pulley (idler pulley), the belt & the rear lip seal on the drum since it had a 4" section missing from the edge @ one point (all of these were the original components). Replacing the rear drum seal took the most time because the old adhesive had to be removed. I did this first so the glue could set while I installed the new pulleys & belt. By the time they were installed, the glue had set enough & I could continue the re-assembly.We now have a 25 year old dryer that sounds like it's new & @ a fraction of the cost
I Looked on internet sites for this type of problem.Most sites said the support rollers could cause this.I found your site PartSelect and with help of your diagrams of the machine ordered the parts I thought were needed plus other parts that might cause the problem. With machine torn down I replaced the rollers.I had also ordered the main drive belt and idler assembly with the rollers and these also needed replacement. It is a good idea to order other suspect parts when doing this type of repair since you can return the parts not needed.Your return policy is great.Edward Brennan
I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actually did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!
I wasn't sure if the problem was the belt (probable) or the idler pulley assembly (less likely) but the total for both parts was about $26 plus shipping. So why not replace both to be sure?As it turns out, my original idler pulley assembly does not turn. Rather, it has a concave semi-circular piece that is fixed in place. The belt ran in a groove in that piece.The replacement part has a nylon wheel that turns. As a result of replacing the idler pulley assembly (which I don't think was necessary to fix my tumbling problem) the dryer runs much quieter. (We used to get a fair amount of squeaking when the belt rubbed).As for the actual repair (I would rate myself as above average on tackling household repairs), it was about the simplest repair I've ever done. I followed the video provided on this site (excellent video) and it took less than 20 minutes -- cleaning up all of the lint/odds and ends under the washer and dryer took longer than the actual repair.My only issue (minor) was disconnecting the electric harness. It did not slide as easily as in the video. I had to coax mine a bit with a small screwdriver (make sure your dryer is unplugged!!). I suspect it was simply a function of the harness never being unplugged -- the dryer is 9 years old.I also felt great because I'm sure I saved a $125 service call (for only $26 in parts and 20 minutes of my life).Good luck!
1) Removed top of dryer2) removed belt and drum3) removed front of dryer4) popped clips holding down motor5) unscrewed rear fan from motor (by exposing and holding fan)6) changed motor 7) changed support rollers and idler pully8) reassemled dryer
replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot.
Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.
Prop up the hood of the dryer with flat bar. Take out 2 screws holding dryer front end and 2 switch screws for dryer light inside dryer door. Secure dryer drum with bungee cord. Lift front end and remove. Remove broken belt. Route new belt over drum and pass underneatch idler pulley at botttom of dryer. Apply pressure to idler pulley w/one hand while securing belt around motor with the other. Make sure drum seals are snug between front and back of dryer while putting everything back together. Have confidence. This is a very easy fix.
When the belt broke my renter tried to fix it with duct tape and in the process the idler pulley either broke or somehow got lost. When I began to fix the dryer with a new belt,I discovered the idler was gone. SO, not knowing what it looked like was a problem. Going to the PartSelect web site I was able to see the exploded views of the whole dryer and pick out the right repair items. Really worked slick. Thanks. Allan W. Rutter
I order a new belt and I watched the video instructions on how to replace it, follow the instructions, removed the top and took out the dryer tumbler or can, found a broken idler pulley, order a new one, got it in about two days, replaced all the parts and now its working like a new dryer, I called several repair shops and I got estimates from $65 to $150, I spend less than $35 and it took me about 35 minutes to install and I got it fixed..
Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.
I ordered the belt idler pully and drum support rollers and after watching the video on Parts Select web page, changed the parts. It could be done by one person, however having a second person to help with the drum installation worked great. I discovered the motor bearing on the front side of the motor was the source of the squeek. I disassembled the dryer again and removed the motor. After ordering a motor the installation and reassembly went smoothly. The parts came in two days of placing the orders and virtually new parts in the dryer makes it seem like a new machine.
Took a bit to first figure out how to get the front of the dryer off in order to access the motor, wheels, and belt, but found a "how-to" online. Once I had that, the rest was easy.Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!
1st, I have a 50 yr electrical background. Impressive right. Anyway my problem was with a Gas Whirlpool Dryer (2004).I can’t express enough how important on any dryer to clean the venting system and the exhaust fan as recommended. I usually do but I let it go 2.5 years more than I usually do. So when the dryer was running it was not completely plugged but enough to get things more toasty inside the machine. The Igniter was lighting when the machine was cool and the gas flowed fine then the gas stopped but the igniter still was trying to start the flame again. As soon as the temperature dropped it would start to work again.I watched a few videos on its repair and figured if it was needed, I might as well order the Gas Valve Coils, new Drum Belt, and Tension Pulley assy. I Unplugged machine, and shut off gas to it. I got my meters out opened the back, pretty easy, make sure to wear gloves SHARP STUFF. All stats and sensors tested well (not Open Circuit). Removed the Motor Cover and it was packed with Lint. ShopVac time. Nice and clean did the whole back while I was at it. Put all covers back on, put back on, gas on, plugged in. Tried machine same issue. Turned off Gas, Unplugged Machine, and Lifted top after removing 2 screws by Lint screen Port being careful not to drop them back into Lint Screen Port. Unplugged door switch connector Removed (2) 5/16” screws holding front on and lifted front off. I shimmed the drum so it would not dangle. Unplugged (2) Gas valve coils and checked for an open, but they checked good. Note: Sometimes this happens when the coils are cold, and they don’t fail until they get warm. Removed and replaced coils, new Drum Belt, and Tension Pulley assembly, vacuumed carefully. Put front back on, Plugged door switch back together, Put Top down and secured with the 2 screws.It is suggested that you put some cold damp towels or clothes in before testing so the dampness will make the sensors see the proper temperature in the drum. Put the Lint Screen back in, Turned on Gas, Plugged machine back in. Success I Spent $40 and saved $600+. NOT TO MENTION, HAPPY WIFE/ HAPPY LIFE. Good luck and I strongly suggest you watch as many videos as you can on the web. I might mention that prices were the best, but check around if you don’t believe me. Good Luck.Thank you,-Larry Burbank, CA
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