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PartSelect Number PS11743618
This part, when activated, releases water from the supply line into the ice mold.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Shutoff water and turn off fridge. Remove the main water hose from the fridge with pliers, then remove back bottom plate of fridge where the hose was at (about 5 screws) in order to disconnect the hoses going into the valve by pushing in on the plastic colored fastener(blue & white) while pulling on the hose at the same time. Do this for each of the hoses. Then disconnect the wires from the valve and unscrew the valve(1 screw) from the back plate. Replace with new valve which comes with brand new fasteners for the hoses so all you have to do is insert the hoses in the valve and reverse the above process to install the valve.
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Diagnosing the part I needed was the biggest problem and thus my offer to post this feedback. I assumed the dual valve was the culprit by the description on Partselect - if the part was to allow water to dispense (into the ice mold) when activated, it stood to reason that when NOT activated, it should STOP the flow. I guessed right. Partselect should add to the description that this part also controls water flow to the drinking water dispenser, not just for the ice. Unplug fridge and close water supply valve (probably saddle valve in basement...)Part is located on back of fridge, lower left hand side. The water lines will lead you right there. Remove all sheet metal screws with nutdriver. Remove panel to gain access. Remove all water lines, taking note which lines went into which opening. Note: no tools necessary for this. Pull line out with one hand while depressing the blue plastic ring around the intake of the valve. Will pull right out. Have towels and/or bucket to capture water in lines. Replace lines simply by pushing them into the correct opening. Replace valve and panel. Plug in fridge, turn water supply back on. Also want to say the the service was GREAT from Partselect. Called the 800 number on a Sunday afternoon. Rep was GREAT. Had part two days later - sent regular delivery! Awesome!
I changed out the water valve behind the refrigerator that controls when the ice maker and water dispencer receives water. It was easy. I removed the lower back panel to get access to the valve. Pulled the hoses out by pushing up on the ring between the valve and hose and the hose came right out. I disconected the power lines. Of course the water was disconected and power plug out prior to starting the job. I replaced the valve and reconnected the lines and power. I put the back panel back in place and turned the water on to check for leaks. The next day I had ice in the ice maker.
It's good to note, first, that the dual water valve on Amana fridges are notorious for cracking and leaking, either due to the fridge being left in the cold (the water inside the valve freezes and expands, cracking the water valve) or from issues related to shipping. Read the reviews, here - it's a common issue, but easy and cheap to fix yourself. Here's my steps. I first turned off the water source to fridge by closing the correct valve. Next, I unplugged the fridge from electrical and from the water source line. When looking at the back of the fridge, I unscrewed the bottom left cover plate from the fridge body. After unscrewing and removing the plate, I made sure to note which lines came from which areas of the fridge and where the lines ended up at the dual water valve, and how they were routed through the plate and into the valve. The way this fridge is setup, the water source line screws into a main line that heads to the top of the fridge where the water filter is (like a "line in"). There's another line that heads back down to the bottom of the fridge (line out). The "line out" inserts into the outside plug of the dual water valve. The two lines coming out of the dual water valve are different sizes. Make sure to note which line goes to the icemaker and which line goes to the water dispenser inside the fridge. Once I knew which lines needed to go where, I grabbed my empty bucket, pulled the water lines out of the dual water valve with some pliers, and emptied the water into the bucket. After cleaning up any water splatter with my dry towels, I unscrewed the dual water valve from the plate. Once the old dual water valve was removed, I replaced it with the new valve and screwed it back into the plate. I cut off just a bit of the water line ends that were damaged due to pulling with the pliers, and then inserted them back into the correct spots on the dual water valve. I screwed the plate back into the fridge, reconnected the water source line (make sure to use some kind of water sealer tape or putty), plugged the fridge back into the electrical socket, turned the water source valve back on, and waited for leaks. No leaks! Once I was convinced there weren't any leaks, I had to bleed the water lines for about 20-30 minutes (it takes FOREVER...) by putting my bucket under the water dispenser inside the fridge and holding the water button for what seemed like an eternity - until the water was streaming steadily out of the dispenser. Voila! Good as new! Keep in mind that I didn't go through ALL the minute parts of each step - that would take too long. I'm believing that you'll be perceptive enough to catch the small things like looking at how the lines are routed into the dual water valve and where things are screwed into. Use your BRAIN, and you'll be fine. :-)
removed the old valve from back of fridge by removing screws that held mounting plate. removed water lines by pushing in on quick connects and pulling hoses out. A little different type of connections. installed new valve and pushed hoses into connections making sure that they snaped in. reinstalled screws and checked for leaks. took about 15 minutes!
I searched in line for a replacement fill valve and easily found it on your site w/ excellent diagrams. I turned off the frig., & the part came out simply and logically first removing the 5 screws that hold it in w/ a nut driver. Then remove the supply water line and the other quick connect lines that feed the ice maker and the chilled water dispenser. Then, disconnect the two wire harnesses that clip off easily by hand. They feed the two relays in the valve and are color coded. Remove the valve and reverse the procedure to hook it back up. Note: a little water will come out of the lines so be ready w/ a small bowl and a dish towel. After installing the new part, it was necessary to "bleed" the water lines of air by drawing a few glasses of water from the water dispenser to get the system operating normally again. One tool, common sense, 30 minutes. Probably saved $150 + on a repair man plus parts markup. Thanks very much!!
Diconnecting the hoses was a pain as there are no instructions. Draw a diagram of each hose and color of the connectors or better take a picture before starting. Make sure the water is off, have a bowl & towels ready to mop up the water that runs out of the hoses. You have to push each hose in along with the little top hat connector that the hose runs thru. With both pushed in, hold the top hat connector down and pull the hose up and out. I could not reconnect without a leak on the hose that has a spring in it if I slipped the hose thru the white bracket. I ran the hose outside of the bracket and it went right in with no leak.
The water valve for the ice maker / front water dispenser was relatively simple to repace. I never used these platic type of connectors to for the platic water tubing, but read a couple articles on how they work - I'm glad I did. To remove the tubing, you have to press the platic rings toward the valve, then the tubing slides right out. Just push the tubing into the ring to seat it. A handful of screws hold the valve and cover in place.The new valve works, and I have a functioning ice maker again.
Followed instructions and installed dual water valve. Did Not Solve Problem! ... Then replaced Water Filter. This fixed "water flow problem" and "no, or hollow" ice cubes.
Removed the screws from the plate holding the valvefrom the frig. Removed the screws holding the valve to the plate. I took a picture with my digital camera before disconnecting any of the tubing or wiring to verify I put everything back the way it's supposed to go. I do this for most repair/replacement projects. Then I disconnected tubing and electrical connectors. Reinstalled new valve.
I simply removed the old dual valve and installed the new one. The lines were a snap to remove and replace. I couldn't be happier with the PartSelect web site and prompt delivery of the part.
took off left bottom panel 1.4 nutdriver took out old put in new water valve
Removed 5 srews with nut driver. Disconnected water lines and cut short piece off old lines. Reconnected water lines and reinstalled screws. Then connected water line to the replacement valve, it works great.PartSelect.com was the easiest way to obtain this valve. I ordered the part Monday and it arrived Friday. I'm very pleased with their service.Al - Mequon, WI
To fix the water valve was very simple. First I unplugged the refrigerator and turned off the water supply. On the back of the refrigerator I removed the water panel. I think it was about 5 or 6 screws I did this using a nut driver. After it was loose you can remove the panel out to where you can get to the water valve. To remove the water valve lossen one screw holding it to the panel. To remove the water lines you hold in on the coupler and pull the line out. Each time I pulled a water line out I put it right back into the new water valve just to make sure they where put back in the right place. Same with the electrical connections unplug one and plug it right back into the new water valve. When your done with that, screw the new water valve back on to the water panel and screw the water panel back on the refrigerator. Turn on the water supply and check for any leaks. If no leaks are found, plug the refrigerator back in. Pretty simple.
Frist moved refrigerator away from the wall and removed 5 screws holding valve plate to the back of refrigerator. Removed one screw holding valve to plate. Cut the three hosed as close as possible to the faulty valve with razor. Installed new valve to plate. shoved hosed into valve all the way to the seat bottom. Tested for leaks. Installed valve plate with the five screws. Rolled refrigerator back in place.Tested by filling cup with water at refrig. door. OKIce tray filled with water within 5 minutes. OK
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