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PartSelect Number PS11743485
This drawer glide rail is thirteen inches long. It is clear and made of plastic.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
First, removed glass shelf from fridge. Then removed old rails from underside of the glass shelf; this was a bit tricky because the rails have a plastic catch, so I had to wedge a screwdriver between the rail and the steel hardware under the shelf. Then I gently hammered out the rail. Reinstalling the new rails was very easy.
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1-Removed drawer; removed drawer shelve which contained rails; slid old rail out of shelve mounts with light taps on ends. 2- Screwed on the new rollers to rail guides; reinstalled new guides into shelve mounts; re-installed shelve onto mountings in refrigerator; re-inserted drawer nto new rails-Done! Received parts 48 hrs. after placing order!Great job! Third positive experience with Parts Select.
When the new glide rail didn't look any different that the one I thought was broken, I thought I'd assessed the wrong broken part as everytime I tried to put it in the slots it would still fall off, just like the old one.. But I went back and reread the other repair stories to get a picture in my mind what they were talking about. I realized I needed to get the glass shelf off but it wouldn't budge. I found the original information booklet and realized the two blue clips in the shelf tracks were nothing more than packing clips (we've had the fridge 8 year.) when I got those off (these took the most time and a flat head screwdriver) the shelf came right off. Then I put the glide rail brackets in the appropriate slots, pushed the rail toward the front of the shelf and when it got to the place of resistance, I just applied steady, gentle pressure to get the brackets to lock in place in the slots. Repair done, placed shelf back in fridge, put drawer back on, and it was done. Oh, forgot, I first had to take the little wheel thingy off the old raid and screw it onto the new rail before attaching the new rail to the shelf. By the Way, this was really easy to do. I'm a 66 year old grandmother and this was my first refrigerator repair. Always read the previous repair stories--they really do tell you what you need to do.
I first looked at the current assembly so that I could see how the new parts were to go (thanks Dad!) Then I removed the drawer and unscrewed the rails. Next, I removed the guide wheels from the old set of rails and installed them into the new rails. After that it was just a matter of screwing in the new rails and sliding the old drawer front plate onto the new drawer. Whala! Back in business.
I first removed the drawer and then removed the shelf to which the drawer guide is mounted. Removing the drawer guide from the shelf was the hardest part - it was quite tight. I used a piece of wood and a light tap from a hammer to get it free. I had to reuse the roller from the old drawer glide (one screw). I snapped the new glide onto the shelf and I was in business. The best part was that the part arrived the day after ordering it - though I didn't request overnight delivery and the repair took less than 10 minutes.
hit the old rail a couple of time with a screwdriver to loosen it. Put the new rail on. Put the slide tape in the grove on the rail. Tooks the old wheel of the old rail and put it on the new one. Done!
Removed and replaced by hand
I had a heck of a time getting the broken rail off the drawer. I had to pry quite a bit with a screwdriver to get it to slide off. Other than that, it was like falling off a log.
I matched up the holes on the shelf with the notches on the rail and snapped it into place. The only thing that was harder that weekend was watching golf and drinking beer. That took me four hours.
tricky part was removal of the old drawer rails. they have a little nub that sides in but does not slide out (the nub is a small triangle piece) so easily. needed to revmove the nub by use of a chisel (sharp knife would work). once that nub was gone the old rail slipped out and the new one slid right in.
Examining the right side rail, which would not stay in, there was a small projection on the outside of it which had sheared off. The fix was a straight replacement, just slide it in from the rear. It took a good bit of force to get the ramped projection over the hump and into its slot.
Remove rails by sliding toward the rear of the draw, remove screw holding roller wheels with screw driver, installrollers onto new rails, tighten screw, and insert new rails.Force rails forward till rail locks into place.
simply removed and replaced bracketsremoved the 2 screws from old brackets and replaced on new brackets
removed shelf, removed sllides and replaced
Was amazed that I could find parts for a model more than 10 years old. Hardest part was figuring out which was the left rail and which was the right. Then it was a snap with no tools
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