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PartSelect Number PS11743364
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the run capacitor may need replacing. This repair is fairly easy to complete, and the only tools you will require are a 1/4 inch nut driver, and a 1/4 inch socket with a small ratchet. The run capacitor is located in the back of the fridge, so you will need to make sure you have room to work on this repair. Make sure to unplug the fridge prior to beginning the repair.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98. So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.
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Diagnosis: Defrost timer tested fine for continuity. Removed relay/capacitor unit from compressor (carefully). Tested compressor connections for continuity (OK). I tested the connection paths from timer to compressor and they were fine. At this point, I figured it could only be two things: bad compressor or  bad relay/capacitor. I put the odds on the relay and bet the $70 on the part. Before installation, I marked the timer position with a sharpie. It's located on the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment. After the part installation, the compressor kicked in, purring quietly. Condenser coils warm, Evaporator coils cold. After a few hours I had ice in the freezer. I checked the timer markings with a compact mirror. It had advanced over a half turn, assuring that the timer motor functions. . Next, I went to the grocery store.
I opened up the back panel, and with a multimeter found that the compressor was not getting power. The voltage stopped at the connection socket and run capacitor. Unplugged the fridge and discharged the capacitor, CAREFULLY removed these parts and replaced them. Fridge works now. The repair guy gave me an estimate of $900, but with partselect, I fixed my fridge for $63 including overnight shipping.Remember to unplug the fridge before removing the back panel, and vacuum any dust and dirt before you work. The power to the compressor is at WALL OUTLET LEVELS and can cause serious injury or death. Please be careful and wear proper protective equipment. The repair may extremely simple, but that does not mean you should be careless.
First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!
I was told to order the run capacitor and the technician thought it would repair the refrigerator; but it did not. The appliance technician had to take the run capacitor off and install what he called a "hard start" and the refrigerator is operating right now.
Remover rear cover at bottom of refrigerator. The replacement run capacitor was the same as the original one. The replacement Overload Relay Combination was slightly different. It plugged onto the compressor the same, but the connector where the power came in from the wiring harness was different. I had to cut off the original connector from the wiring harness, and then splice in new connectors onto those two wires which I could then attach to the replacement Overload Relay Combination. Fortunately the connectors I needed were fairly common and I had those available. After that it worked. My suspicion is that the Run Capacitor was fine, and it was just the Overload Relay Combination that failed. Replacing the capacitor without replacing the Overload Relay Combination did not fix the problem.
I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks
It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.
just took a screwdriver and prized of the little ketch that holds it on and then unpluged the parts then pluged them back on. i do all of my repairs myself.
installed new relay & overload kit, then new capacitor. The machine still does not work and i am at a loss as what to do next. any suggeations?
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