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PartSelect Number PS11743364
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the compressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.
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I could hear a loud hum from the compressor motor cycling on/off every 5-10 seconds. Pulled the capacitor and relay switch from the compressor. Checked compressor terminals with ohmmeter, no shorts to ground so it was ok. A gravely substance rained out of the overload relay switch when I removed it, so I assumed it was bad. Didn't need to check the capacitor as it was only another $20 or so to replace. Also didn't notice any oily residue that would signify a coolant leak, so assumed the system was still pressurized. New relay switch and capacitor plugged right in, no tools needed. Re-secured the assembly with it's original keeper clip wire and I was done. Plugged it in and made sure it was cooling properly before replacing the various back cover panels. Like a new reefer! Couldn't have been easier. Just be careful with the capacitor when you remove it. It could hold a lethal electric charge.
Removed back cover by removing 6 screws, vacuumed the dust out to make it less unpleasant and made sure I had the fridge far enough away from the wall to easily see. The kit was a little different from the relay that was in place - the old one on the compressor was encased in a small plastic carrier, and the replacement was two separate pieces, a short connector wire and a much bigger cover. I made sure the fridge was unplugged, then pulled off the wires (recorded what color went where) and pulled the relay with it's carrier from the compressor. I realized that the carrier was not to be reused, and pushed on the relay and the overload pieces, put on the provided white connector wire, connected the colored wires back to their new connections (orange wire now connects to white connector wire), and carefully snapped the new big cover over the wires and relay. Be careful with the wire routing - don't want to dislodge the connectors when putting on the cover. Remounted the back cover and plugged that puppy in - worked like a champ!
I didn't do it, my husband did. He removed the back panel and used an ohm meter to check the compressor and found that that was working so he decided to replace the overload relay and capacitator. He has an hour lunch and since the parts were in he decided to change it during his lunch hour. The minute he had them replaced....voila!! Cold again! We had a different fridge that had the same problem, but we thought it would be too expensive to fix so we junked it......wish we would have tried this!!! So proud of the hubby!
First of all, let me say that I'm a 50 year old single woman. If I can do this repair, anyone can! After unscrewing the back of the unit that houses the compressor, I found the relay overload switch which is attached to the compressor. I pulled the part off and discovered that it comes in one piece. The replacement part came in 3 pieces. I intially thought they sent the wrong part. After a little thinking outside of the box, I figured out that the replacement part was indeed the correct part and that it comes in 3 pieces instead of one. It would have taken 5 minutes to repair if I had realized this early on. Once replaced, the refrigerator/freezer was cooling within 10 min. I sent the Run Capacitor back after telephoning a customer service rep. She was so courteous and helpful! What a fabulous company. I highly recommend. I saved myself approx. $250.00 doing it myself.
removed all 6 screws in back of fridge. located the condenser the relay was a white like circut to the left of the unit. The entire pience comes off easy using a flat screw driver to pry it off the pins. The replacement came in 2 pieces insted of 1.I replaced the relay and then the overload reconnected the wire harness back the way it was before. The new relay has a larger connector prong for the live wire so the kit comes with a jumper wire so the original wire harness can be used without splitting the cabel made the repair very easy. Also the new capacitor is bigger and better so I replaced that as well. The capacitor makes sure the relay gets stable current so its good to have a working one.
Problem: My Maytag side by side door refrigerator just stopped cooling and has to discard all frozen items after I discovered being away for 3 days. First, I went to my computer and read some of the repair stories at Part Select “Need help with your repair?” and installation video guide.1. I ordered the Refrigerator Adaptive Defrost Board (ADP) - followed the procedures how to disconnect and installed the new part. Unfortunately, it did not correct the problem and only warm is coming out.2. I ordered the Defrost Heater Thermostat Assembly - removed the old and replaced with new assembly. Again, warm air coming out. Meanwhile, I kept on hearing “clicking sound every few second” not knowing where this coming from. Again, at Part Select, I read the story about it and I ordered the Run Capacitor and the Overload/Relay with Capacitor. Soon as I opened the parts and tried to match it from the part at the back of the refrigerator and to the part from the compressor, I have discovered that they are not in compatible with the original parts from my Maytag Refrigerator and cannot be installed. And so I contacted (Email) Part Select customer service (Jeanette) if I could return the unused parts and had provided me the “Return address and the Reference Number”. This time, I gave Jeanette the Maytag Model and Serial numbers and asked where I could find this on my refrigerator and make the necessary repair and came back with the diagram and located #4 to the compressor. Ordered the correct part# PS2004058.3. Upon receipt of the part above, I was puzzled, in the plastic container are four parts, included a plastic cover. I have not given up, I removed the original part encased in white plastic container pulled straight off the compressor and examined it closely. Before detaching all the wiring, I also noted before disconnecting from wire harness and read the Diagram/Instruction Sheet provided. 4. From the four new parts provided, installed the Overload Terminal, bottom part on Compressor with one terminal to the Blue wire. Connected White Jumper to the old harness. Lastly, I plugged the PTC Start Device (two terminals) above the Overload Terminal on the Compressor with the proper wiring as I previously noted and installed the electrical cover. “Plugged in the refrigerator to the power outlet”. To test the result, I left a glass of water inside the freezer and a bottle of wine into the refrigerator. The result - I checked after 2 hours, the water was frozen and a cool wine. “Little frustration included here, as I am not an electrician.” But now, I could say, I fixed it, and very proud of this accomplishment. Thank You, PartSelect and to a great Customer Support!Safety Note: Always make sure to unplugged the refrigerator (power off) prior doing the necessary repairs.Rodolfo Julao/S. San Francisco, CA
Using a nut driver I removed the lower back panel to gain access to the compressor.Removed a clip that held Run Capacitor and Overload Relay in place on the compressor.I removed the capacitor first then pulled the relay off from the compressor.Then I unplugged the wire harness from the relay.This job is very simple if you have original replacement parts in hand to re-install.PartSelect provided me with the exact replacement parts... Update: My refrigerator has been running 6 weeks now.Soon after I sent the note above I had a Technician check for refrigerant in the system.There was none!The Technician,who replaced my evaporator-heater in November failed to plug properly the port on the compressor.So,this thing is now running better than before.It now makes ice in the same container at the same setting,in 6 hours instead of 8 hours.
unplug Ref. and on back of Ref., take back panel off to locate compressor. Attached to the compressor are 2 small parts, secured to the Ref. w/ a small clip. Remove the clip w/ a pair of plyers. Remove the Capacitor (white plastic electric part)form the Compressor - the black overload relay will come off with it. Plug the new relay in to the Capactor. Locate the two wires (used to connect the Ref. to the Capacitor) from the Ref, unplug them from the old Capacitor/Relay and plug them in to the new part(s). Plug the new parts back in to the Compressor. Reinstall the the small metal clip that holds the Capacitor/Relay in place. Plug Ref. back in - if no noise, parts have worked (allow 5+ mintues to test).
pull out the fridge, unplug. remove 4 screws to remove the black panel covering the compressor area (remember to unhook the power cord off of it). locate the capacitor/relay switch which is on the left side of the compressor. There is a wire hook that holds the capacitor in place. unhook the wire, then pry loose the relay and capacitor off. then unhook the wire connector (there's a latch you'll have to press or pull up to loosen the connector). put the new capacitor on the new relay, put the wire connector on the new relay, then plug it back into the compressor. one securely plugged in, put the wire hook back on. hook the power cord back on the black rear panel, screw it back onto the fridge. I think the hardest part of all this for me was trying to pull the refrigerator out of the cabinet. once I got access to the rear of the fridge, it was very straightforward.
Installed new parts worked great and most important wife was happy again
Remove back cover. Disconnect power. Pull out overload switch off compressor. Remove capacitor. The overload switch i ordered came with instructions. What took the most time was figuring out if i dared installing it the way i thought best. The instructions, in my instance, were incorrect. My overload switch didn't have a terminal #1. Long story short, i looked at the circuit diagram it came with, and based on process of elimination based on terminal sizes, I put it together. But the instructions weren't accurate. All in all for the average DIY, not a bad repair at all. I am still afraid that my problem is the compressor, b/c even after the new part is installed it still occasionally tries starting but can't, and keeps retrying until it does. It is either a faulty relay switch or a faulty compressor. We'll see which one wins.
Open back cover and check thecomprosser and ffan. Fan was working and compresore was very hot and freon pipes are not cold. Check the connectivity with the resistor meter on compressor and all 3 pin were checked out ok. that means compressor is ok. Then check overload relay and there was a short butn out. take the part # and order from partselect and i got in 3 days costiing me less than $ 20.00. replaced relay and frezzecompressor start colling the syatem.
Easily replaced the 2 parts after removing panel in back of fridge. Very easy and did the trick!
Unplugged the starter from compresser and put the new part in and all worked. Great service and I like the OEM parts not aftermarket. Will definately do service with you again. Thanks for making my life easier.
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