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PartSelect Number PS11743234
This limit switch is a little over an inch long. It is an assembly of plastic and metal. The switch pictured here is black, though this type of switch is also available in white.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I replaced the actuator switch and rubber pad with the switch actuator. I had attempted to repair previously without replacing the pad but the problem continued. I put up with the problem for a long time waiting for the opportunity to get to the appliance parts store but their hours are hard to deal with and work myself. I was able to find the part easily with the on-line catalog and parts diagram and ordering was no hassle at all. Shipping was extremely fast. I remove the front panel by removing the drip tray and the 2 screws at the bottom. Then gently lift up on the front cover assembly (careful with the connector to the circuit board at the top) it slides over 2 screw heads at the top. Remove all the screws that secure the dispenser to the fridge, one screw is hidden on the right side (as you face the front. Work the dispenser out and careful of the water tube coming from the top - it stays in place. The wire connector must be unplugged from the left side in order to remove the assembly and not actuate the dispenser while working (a good idea to unplug the fridge). A small phillips screw holds the switch in place and the actuator fits over with the slots fitting over lugs on the assembly. Reinstall as you removed - be careful to be sure all wires go back into the proper location and "tracks" to keep them out of the way and avoid pinching (if the actuator will not go back flush in its location check the wires to the switch). Plug all wires bach in and don't forget the harness to the top of the circuit board on the front panel.Plug back in and check your work.Important to replace the actuator pad - its "elasticity" is the return mechanism for the switch actuator. Probably the issue I had after replacing the switch and still suffering the same problem.Good Luck!
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Shut off power, removed the torx screws that hold the dispenser assembly to the freezer door, disconnected "ribbon cable" from keypad and removed the dispenser assembly to counter. Unhooked sides and removed rubber actuator pad, unscrewed limit switch, removed and disconnected 2 wires. Reversed the above with new actuator pad and limit switch. Total time about 20 minutes.
Replaced old dual outlet water valve with new design, which eliminates the (reportedly) troublesome "y" connector. A relatively simple matter of unplugging the refrig., turning off the water that feeds the ice maker and removing the cardboard/fabric service panel at the bottom rear of the refrig. Removed one screw with a nutdriver, disconnected the valve from both lines and out came the old valve with little fanfare. Next, as I replaced the valve with the new and improved version, cut out the "y" connector and used the supplied union and tubing to connect to the existing water line (just upstream from where the "y" connector was). Then, as my water/ice dispenser was sticking "on", I went ahead and replaced the rubber activator and internal switch. This just required moving a few hex screws on the front part of the dispenser to gain access to the parts. A relative snap and now all is working well.
I am going to be completely honest here. This problem had persisted for months. I finally decided that I would buy all the associated parts and repair the unit hoping to cover the problem. Much to my surprise, after carrying out the repair, using the instructions provided by PartSelect, I still had the problem. I decided to remove and LUBRICATE the button which depresses the Limit Switch when you push a glass against the rubber membrane. Low and behold the problem was solved. The frig is nine years old, so I feel I may have prevented other problems in the future by replacing the three parts. It was a follow the directions sort of repair. I was very pleased with PartSelect response to my order (received it next day) with standard shipping.
first i remove the two screws like the guy said on your web site. then i pulled the cover off with a upward motion revealing three more screws witch i removed. I then removed the dispencer. unpluged the wires and removed the switch and pad and replaced with new parts.I reinstalled the wires then the unit, installed the screws and cover.Checked for proper operation.Then enjoyed that cold beer! Thanks to your wed site and repair info. I saved at least 100 buck to the repair man. Thanks Partselect.com
Pull out fridge and unplug Remove drip tray from dispenseerUnscrew face plate (star bit) 2 screwsCarefully disconnect wire strap from faceplate controlsUnscrew dispenser from chute - 3 screws and one is hddend next to actuator.Carefully disconnect another wire strap to remove unit.Remove actuator padRemove limit switch (i small philips screw)Replace switch & padRe-assembleNeither the actuator pad nor the limit switch appeared broken or worn but it appears to have solved the problem.Not a terribly complicaed repair but you need to take care not to damage anything as you take apart. More work than just changing a filter or bulb.
Upon careful inspection, I found that the dispenser also would occasionally fail to shut off when dispensing whole or crushed ice, which led me to think that the problem was in the dispenser actuator rather than in the water solenoid or fountain switch control board. To inspect the actuator mechanism, I shut off power to the refrigerator, removed the escutcheon mounting screws, the escutcheon, the cable from the fountain switch control board, and finally the fountain bracket assembly. There was a small amount of hard water scale on the back of the actuator pad, but no groove in the plastic part of the pad that actuates the switch. I replaced the pad and switch (1 screw) and reassembled the dispenser. The dispenser no longer sticks and shuts off normally.
I removed 3 screws that held face panel in place and unplugged and removed face panel. I removed one screw holding limit switch in place, unplugged switch and removed actuator pad and switch. Installed new limit switch and actuator pad. Repaced front panel and dispensor - now works like a new one.
I first read about others with the same problem on your web sight and figured if they could do it so could I. Anyway the directions are a little hard to read but it was very informative and straight forward. I took the advice of one of the do it your-selfers when it came down to removing the spring. Be careful not to loose it. Everything was there that I needed and went on without a hitch. Now it was time to see if my repairs were done correctly. Pow! Everything worked. This is a great web-sight to buy parts if you are a do it your selfer. Easy to follow instructions.
Un plugged refrigerator, removed 2 screws holding the front control cover in place. Removed 3 screws that held the despenser assey in place and removed the power cable. Inspected the burnt and melted assey and got on line with parts select and chose the parts I needed and ordered them. They had it all and shipped it that day. I was back in business in about 3 days. Thanks again. You have saved me on this appliance several times.
1 Remove the two screws at the bottom of the Ice Dispenser faceplate. 2 Carefully remove Faceplate and remove the wire connector on the back side.3 Remove the three screw holding in the Ice and water dispenser.4 Disconnect the wire harness going to the dispenser.5 Remove the Actuator Pad.6 Unscrew the Limit Switch.7 There are two wire connectors to be removed. As you remove one place it on the new Switch. Repeat for the other wire.8 Install the new Limit Switch with the screw that was removed 9 Install the new Actuator Pad.10 Reconnect the wiring harness to the dispenser.11 Place the dispenser assembly back in place and reinsert the screws.12 Carefully reconnect wire harness to the back of the faceplate.13 Reattach Faceplate to the refrigerator.14 Install new Dispenser Grill
Needed special "Torques" tool to remove front panel from refrigerator door not a problem, however, some folks may not have this type of tool. Replaced rubber actuator pad and DID NOT replace limit switch. Old pad was worn out & wouldn't reset. Replaced water outlet valve this fixed the water flow to the ice maker. Had to guess if this was the problem. I guessed right as the water flow to the door water point was working but the ice maker water flow was not. I also used a special tube cutter (I had one) to cut the water tubes to get a clean cut. Most of the time was spent on vacuuming the underside of the frig. Bottom line the ice maker works again!
the entire assembly was removed using some small hex and torx wrenches. I am not a refrigeration expert and had no diagram but this was very intuitive to replace all the parts above. I figured I would replace all these other related parts while I was digging around in there.One thing to watch out for is to label the wires going into the switches before you take the old one out. You do not want to wire them up wrong, so use a sharpie to label the colors before disassembly.Also take the time to clean the parts in soap/bleach to clean all the years of filth that accumulate.I replaced all the parts above and cleaned everything well in under 20 minutes. Saved a fortune thanks to partselect!
1. Unplug refrigerator and remove fountain drip tray.2. Remove the two #15 torx head screws that were covered by the drip tray.3. Pull the bottom of the trim panel out and push up to remove panel and then unplug switch circuit board connector..4.Remove the three screws (same size as the other two) and then remove the switch, ice door, etc assembly and unplug the connector.5. Aside. At this time I extended the water hose which has been short since new. Used a couple of inches of 1/4 inch plastic tube. Heated it with boiling water and slipped it over the existing tube to extend it about 1/2 inch. Now the water flows in a uniform predictable stream.6.Remove the tiny phillips screw holding the switch in place. 7.Remove and replace the old switch and actuator pad and screw. Check operation of switch. I lubricated the surface between the switch actuator bar and the rubber with a little plastilube(white) grease. Probably highly optional.8.Replace and replug the assembley. Tuck the actuator pad around the edges if needed. Remember to turn the screws CCW until they fall into the old threads and then tighten them until snug.9.Plug in and mount trim and connect refrigerator.
Viewed the repair video. Removed covering. Replaced limit switch, control board, and solenoid. Very easy repair!
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