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PartSelect Number PS11743061
The docking station is located on the water supply tube at the far back. It provides water to the upper and middle spray arm and also includes the flappers.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The upper arm was held in by a torx screw. The shoulder on the screw held the arm in place. Once removed I simply swapped parts and installed screw. The lower arm was held on by a plastic nut with knurled edges that you can remove by hand. The arm simply lifted off and I swapped arms again. The rollers are held on by a curled plastic lock that grips the wire basket.
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Remove the racks top and bottom. The Station D seals are at the far back on the tube that supplies water to the top and middle spray heads. Unsnap the old one and snap in the new - it only goes one way! This will repair the seal aroound the tube that supplies the middle sprayer and restore pressure to all 3 heads. Repalcing the screen accumulator is harder. you need a torx driver. remove the little thumb nut on the bottom sprayer and remove the sprayer. Then remove the tube where you just replaced the D station. (You of course could have done this earlier if you were doing both repairs) then 6 screws on the impeller housing. Now remove the 1 torx screw on the impeller and pull the impeller up and off. Remove the 3 screws on the cover and 2 screws on the accumulator. Clean all the old food scraps that are clogging up the works and reassemble in reverse order. Washer is working again!!
First I read all the reports for not cleaning properly already listed on this site. I had to replace the docking station with flappers. When I removed the station I lost the flappers down the water delivery tube just like Jon said I would in his repair post so I removed the water distribution assembly fished out the old flappers and snapped in the new. But then I figured I might as well check out the accumulator while I was in the tub anyway - I had read that you need Torx screwdriver bit, which I had, undid the screws, pulled out the accumulator screen which was about 80% clogged, discovered I need a new chopper blade and my impeller is disintegrating, put it back together and lost ten minutes looking for the three screws I had incorrectly put in too soon, and now it is cleaning a packed full load like it was supposed to do.**I love this site - I went to the virtual repairman and it listed every problem I had with this appliance in the order they happened (door latch broke years ago). - I think I am going to look up stuff that I own so I will know ahead what could go wrong with them.And absolutely NO DUCT TAPE was used in this repair.
Removed the screws holding the door liner in place removed latch. Waited for half of the parts to get here, about 2 weeks. Parts got here except for Door latch and seal they were back ordered. One month after I ordered all parts finally arrive. Replace door latch assembly and replace door seal reinstall retaining screws....Done works good again. Parts were all the correct ones just took a long time to get here.
Removed assembly holding the docking station to insure the passageway was clear. I reversed the flappers and noticed an improvement in cleaning then decided to order a new part. Installation was simple and the repair seems to have worked well.
Removed top tray. Removed old wash arm (rotating) and installed new one using a screw driver.Manualy un-snapped station docking (w/flapper) and removed. Snapped in new one.
This repair was really three separate easy repairs.The top rack docking station is really simple -- pop the old one off and snap the new one on.The impeller is easy IF you have the right Torx screwdriver. You have to take a few layers of water handling plastic parts off to get the the impeller, but it's all pretty easy. I did strep a couple of Torx bits when I put one of the parts back on, but I've had this apart at least three times and they held up the first few times. I'll buy some new screws next time.There are a few things to keep in mind when changing the door latch and control panel. First, change the latch as soon as it breaks, instead of waiting for it to break more and destroy the control panel in the meantime. I'd have save $60 and most of the work if I hadn't put it off. Second, turn off the power. Changing the panel requires removing and replacing some wires, and it would be EASY to contact wires that you probably don't want to. A nutdriver makes quick work of everything that the Torx doesn't fit, and the remove/replace is pretty easy. Be attentive when refitting the ribbon cable for the control panel - if you're not familiar with this kind of connector you need to figure out the funky slidelock mechanism of the shell. It's easy though.All the parts fit perfectly, and appear to be factory exact replacements. It works fine now, too.
By reading online about some similar problems, I discovered that the accumulator did, in fact, have some holes worn through the screen and was leaking sediment back into the rinse water. After waiting for 2-3 months because the apart was on back-order at the factory, it took me less that 1 hour to remember how the unit went together (reviewed the parts diagram online) and connect everything up. On the first rinse, the dishes were really clean - well worth the wait. Doing dished by hand reminded me of the old days....
I noticed that the dishes on the top rack were not getting clean. While the dishwasher was running, I opened the door to see if the arms were moving/spraying and they were not. I cleaned the filter and checked the impeller and both were clean and not damaged. After looking how the top rack slides into the "flapper" I took it off to inspect it. It was missing the rubber to make the seal with the tube from the top rack. After replacing this part, the dishwasher is cleaning like new. Here is the part PS2340934 Docking Station with Flappers
Maytag should be ashamed to put such poor plastic material in an otherwise good design. The seals that join the rotary sprayers to the rear wall had hardened and crumbled away. When I discovered that water pressure had been lost at the spray arms, it was a simple fix. Snap off the failed parts, pay Partselect $37 because Maytag wanted to save a dime and snap in the new parts. (Parts that will fail again in another 3 years.)
I removed the shelves out of the dishwasher unsnapped the old parts and snapped in the new! Replaces the shelves and it is washing like a new machine! Thanks!
The old docking station seals were getting very soft. To put a band aid on the wound until the new docking station got here I put a sleve on the washer bar feeder tube. This made an improvement. The docking station was removed using a screw driver to unsnap the station. Then all I had to do was snap the new one in. Be care ful not to pull on the piece the docking station is snapped on to. There are metal clips behind there that hold that water delivery tube on to the back of the dishwasher. Those clips are twisted on and can be striped off easily by pulling strait towards you. If that happens you must secure the clips using self tapping screws and a water proof sealent.
Docking station just pops out, you grab the right side and pop it off. Replace by placing the left side in place and then push the right side until it snaps in place. VERY easy. The gaskets were worn out and that was allowing a lot of water to escape, not enough pressure to clean the dishes.
In the back of the dishwasher there are two docking stations for the racks to go into for the water to flow to the rack spinners. These stations have rubber gaskets and flaps in the back that totally wear out. Where our problem was mostly the top rack at first I just replaced the top one and the dishes got cleaner but not perfect. So then I ordered the second one and replaced that one too, now the dishes are perfectly clean all the time!! I would suggest replacing both at the sam time. Just pull off the old part and snap the new part into place. No tools needed. Have to remove the top rack to replace that one. The bottom one could be replaced with the rack pulled out. Thank goodness for Parts select!! This has been the worst dishwasher ever and I have replaced so many parts throught Parts Select. My $189 dishwasher I had before this high end dishwasher was much better-- I know why Maytag got bought out--poor quality!
Problem 1: The dishes on the top rack were frequently still dirty, as if they hadn't gotten rinsed thoroughly (especially in the corners). We have now replaced both the upper and lower docking stations in the back of the machine. Washing has much improved. I no longer have to post-wash my glasses!The docking stations snap off. Just be careful that the little gray flappers don't fall down inside the column they are attached to. You will have to remove the column (metal snaps on roof and back wall, then wiggle free from the bottom center) and fish them out. Our docking stations showed significant wear on the rim of each opening, as if things were not lining up correctly and it rubbed each time the rack was pushed back in. None of the flappers, old or new, seemed to create a fantastic tight seal against the rims. Perhaps they are meant to be pushed closed by the rushing water in the column?Problem 2: Broken door handle/latchThis is the second door handle/latch that has broken on this machine (only 5 years old). We had the same model in our previous house, and had to replace that handle within 2 years, as well. Replacement is simple removal of about 10 screws to open the door compartment. The part comes with new switches attached on the posts on each side, but they are not needed. Push in on the 2 little little prongs to snap them off, and use the existing switches (two brown and black little rectangular things attached to wires on the old latch). They just push on to the new part once you depress the little switch mechanism. Align the new latch with screw holes and replace screws.So 2 new dishwashers (one in 2002, another in 2004), each needing a new latch after about 2 years, and one of them needing ANOTHER new latch after another 2 1/2 years. We did notice this part was redesigned when we replaced the latch the first time on the 2004 DW. Much easier to replace! However, the point that stresses/breaks is still molded plastic around metal pins. That's the weak point. Poor design.
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