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PartSelect Number PS11743057
The pump ejects the water from the unit.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
You have to pull the dishwasher out from underneath the counter and set it on its side. Before removing, I used a shop vac to remove any standing water from inside the dishwasher. Once I pulled out the dishwasher, I then tilted the dishwasher forward to let remaining water fall on the floor, again, using the wet vac for clean up. After it is on its side, I used a socket wrench to remove the one bolt that holds the drain valve on. Then I used a socket wrench to loosen the clamp for the drain hose and removed the hose. You then need to turn the entire drain valve 1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise to remove the old drain valve. Once it is off, remove the bracket from the old drain and attach it to the new drain valve using a phillips screwdriver. Before I reassambled the drain valve, I used my wet vac to remove any debree from where the drain valve connects to the dishwasher. Reverse the prior steps to install new drain valve and install dishwasher back under the counter. I tested the unit before installing the dishwasher back under the counter to insure it fixed the problem. The hardest part about doing this, was actually taking the dishwasher out from under the counter, very easy process in general. One thing I couldn't figure out about my original problem of the water not completely draining out, is why would the drain valve start draining the water then after 20 seconds it would stop? I couldn't find the answer, so I assumed the drain valve is like a 2 stage system and took a chance on replacing the drain valve; it worked.
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Were these instructions helpful?
It was very simple. After disconnecting the dishwasher, I pulled it out from it's space under the cabinet and turned it over on it's side. The pump twists into place and is held by two small bolts. It's very easy to get to and nothing else needs to be taken apart or disconnected. Used some silicon sealant to hold in place after replacing the pump and waited 24 hours to run. The pump was the problem and the dishwasher now runs fine.
First of all I shut the power off to the dishwasher at the breaker box. Turn the water off to the dishwasher. Unhook the water line and then remove the screws that go around the outside trim edge of the dihwasher that secures it to the cabinets. Then you will want to look at the adjustable legs on the dishwasher. You may need to lower the legs to get the dishwasher out from underneath the counter top. While you are doing this you should also pay attention to your drain hose. My drain hose had plenty of slack so I was able to pull my dishwasher out from underneath the cabinet and then unhook it. You should have towels or a bucket in place to catch any water that is inside the drain hose. Next I laid the dishwasher over on its left side and I was able to access the pump. I then used a flat screw driver to remove the hose clamp and remov the drain hose from the pump. I then unplugged 1 wire connector and a bracket and could turn the pump counter clockwise and removed it from the dishwasher. There is a bracket that must be removed from the old pump to the new pump. Once this is accomplished You are ready to reinstall the new pump. I took a towel and wiped the area where the pump hooks into the dishwasher to make sure all debris was removed. I then used a very small amount of gasket sealer and placed it around the "O" Ring on the new pump. Next place the pump back in the whole and turn in a clock wise direction securing it back into the dishwasher. Hook up the drain hose and the wire connector. Make sure the bracket is postioned properly and you are ready to put dishwasher back under the counter.
It was my first time repairing a dishwasher. I was a little worried. I also wasn't sure about how to remove the drain pump. Well, the hardest part was just getting the dishwasher out from under the counter. I did find a crimp in the drain line that probably contributed to the original pump going out. I fixed that, removed the old pump by removing one screw holding a stablizer bracket and twisting the pump connection. The original bracket is needed, so I removed it from the old pump, attached it to the new pump and reversed the removal process and secured the pump by reattaching the stabilizer bar with the single screw. I then slide the dishwasher back under the counter. Runs great. Easy repair. The part was shipped and delivered on time. Very impressed with the process and will order my appliance parts from you in the future.
As others have described once you slide the dishwasher out and tilt it for access you simply remove the discharge (use something to catch the water), torx screw that secures the bracket to the unit, and twist counter clockwise until the pump is free from the drain tub. Reassemble in reverse order
First I unpluged the wire from the drain pump, Then I removed the drain hose form the drain pump, then removed the screw holding the pump to the bracket. Then just turned the pump to the left and pulled down on the pump. Installed the new pump in the reverse order. Was a very easy install. And the problem is now fixed.
I removed screws in trim, kick panel and counter top. Turned off breaker at electric box, Dishwasher slid out easily. diconnected water line; so i could slide entire unit out of cabinet. Laid unit on side and cleaned up the water that leaked out.Removed the pump with nutdriver, replaced pump and reconnected electric, drain hose and screws.Replaced unit into cabinet, connected water and turned on electric. no leaks, ran machine in rinse cycle, at time for pump I could hear and feel it was running, but no water. Evidently my original problem was the "air gap" device. I repaced it $4 at Home Depot and it works like a champ.In hind site, the air gap probably ruined the old pump, so you might want to consider changing it out whenever you change the pump.
Looked on line for replacement parts and found this website along with drawings, videos and owners who had the same problems and followed their descriptions on how to fix the different items I had to deal with.
removed dishes, vacumed water out, unhooked fresh water supply and drain hose. Then slid out unit, tipped it over unhooked hose and twisted drain pump off mount, inserted new unit and locked it into place. Returned dw under counter, connected hoses for water and drain and tust run....all ok!
First I shut off the water and electricity to the dishwasher. I removed the screws holding it in the cabinet and pulled the dishwasher out. Disconnect the water line and turn the unit face down on the floor. I disconnected the wire harness by pulling it out. It was a little hard to pull out. Then I removed the screws holding the pump in place, then removed the pump. I inserted the new pump and replaced the screws, and the wire harness. Then stand the unit upright, reconnect the water line (use teflon tape to prevent water leakage), put the dishwasher back in the cabinet, and restore power and water. Then you're done. It would have been very simple if I had used teflon tape the first time. I had a leak the first time I reconnected the unit and had to take it out again and apply the teflon tape. After that, everything was fine. The dishwasher works great.
It was very simple. My neighbor, whom I call Tobias Maintenance & Repair, did all the work, while I watched with a glass of Jack Daniel’s. The pump twists into place and is held by two small bolts. It's very easy to get to and nothing else needs to be taken apart or disconnected. Used some silicon sealant to hold in place after replacing the pump and all seems good again. The pump was the problem and the dishwasher now runs fine.However: The Float Assembly I thought I ordered was not the one I received. Also the pump drawing did not indicate that I would not require O-Ring Drain Pump, so that was ordered. My request for return information has been ignored. Please send me $8.80 and I’ll call it even.
Problem seemed to be the bottom wash arm. Had somehow gotten too close too heat element, bottom of wash arm was melted slightly causing it to rub. I guess when it got heated up toward end of cycle it began rubbing on heating element. Thought it was somthing in chopper at first, but after inspecting twice, could not find the reason for the noise. Replaced drain pump also, same way as others have instructed. Wash arm was even easier. One screw to remove w/ pliers, pop off arm and put new one on. Problem fixed !
Replacing the pump was not too difficult- if you can instal a dishwasher your can reverse the process to pull it out. This pump require only a few screws to loosen and to re-install. I did use a little silicone where it mates with the tub, but he o-ring should be the seal.The bigger issue was the crud left by the washing process over the years. I would suggest either finding a chemical that will dissolve the hardened grease/calcium (?) build-up that was occasionally coming out in pieces large enough to cause the drain problem. It is all through the pump/spray system, and some areas you really cannot get to without breaking a glued joint. Perhaps, the pump was fine, too, and all it need was the cleaning. In the end, it works like new now.
Removed the old part, which just snapped into place, replaced it with the new part that was sent by your company. Unfortunately, when the new part was plugged into the correct spot, it would not stop running. So all water that went into the dishwasher was pumped right back out. So obviously there must have been an addition issue with the dishwasher.
I removed the washer from under cabinet.Turn unit on its side,removed hose connection,removed mounting screws,disconnect wire plug and removed drain pump.I put a small amount of sealant on pump where it contacts the tub and reversed the process. Parts received in record time and in great shape.
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