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★★★★★
★★★★★
Brian S - November 21, 2021
Verified Purchase
No good
At first I thought the threads were different. Turns out, the splined center was not aligned with the threaded housing. I was unable to muscle the threads in against the misalignment. I checked the return policy, which basically states, if you try to put it in, you own it. So I figured I might as well try to fix my new part. I used a c-clamp to temporarily compress the spring and re-align it. The oil seal popped and it leaked out. In the trash it goes.
Besides the installation tool is no longer available.
November 22, 2021
Thank you for your review. I’m sorry to hear that happened, we will be in touch soon to help fix this issue.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.1 / 5.0, 4 reviews.
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Making squealing sound
Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!
Frances from Dixon, CA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Washer made screeching sound during spin cycle. Also, the clothes were still very wet at end of spin cycle.
I used two vise grip wrenches in place of specialized tool that is no longer available. I put the vice grip wrenches on the brake assembly and hit them alternately with a hammer. I also used penetrating oil.
Note, the parts package stated made in USA but the bearings had China stamped on them.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Washer making high pitched squeal at stopping of spin cycles
My washer is apparently 37 years old. I bought it used in the 90’s and have had to do little or nothing to it repair wise. It started to make a loud squeal/squeak when the spin cycle stopped. I watched a couple videos showing the brake assembly, bearings and belt replacement and was able to find parts. However, one bearing appears to no
... Read morelonger be made (just repacked with heavy duty grease) and the special tool is nonexistent. I read others using a chain clamp vise to remove the brake assembly and bought a 20 inch chain clamp vise and a 3 set variety of vise grip pliers for about $20. They make an 18 inch chain vise but glad I got the 20 inch. I used two vise grip pliers to clamp chain around notch two notches that the specialty tool would normally grab. It was a cumbersome getting in there to whack the pliers with a small sledge hammer so I got a approx 18 inch 2x4 and cut a notch at the end to keep chain vise from digging into bottom of washer and whacked the end of the 2x4. Seemed to work ok and did the same to tighten back after replacing break assembly. Got it out back together and no more squeal.
I determined that the spin bearing was bad and decided to replace the brake too. Placed the machine on its side and then removed the rubber cap, v-belt, screw, drive lug and pulley. Then used a chain-vise grip to turn the brake off with the aid of a 3 foot long pipe extender for leverage. Blocked up the tub to align the transmission and i
... Read morenstalled the new spin bearing, brake, pulley and drive lug. Adjusted the drive lug position to contact the ccw motion of the pulley at the point when I could just feel the brake pressure. Installed the screw and rubber cap. Replaced the drive belts. Tested and all works. Halleluah!
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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10 questions answered by our experts.
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Dav
February 8, 2018
My washer completes the agitation cycle just fine (no strain). When it goes into spin mode, the motor acts as if it is under great load (even with an empty tub) and the thermal protector kicks out, after the tub attempts to move slowly. I have removed the tub drive belt (leaving water pump belt in place) and the motor runs fine in spin-mode, and pumps out any water as normal. I am leaning towards something in the transmission when it switches into spin mode. Would this be in the transmission or tub bearing? Thanks!
For model number A183
Hi Dav,
Thank you for your question. You would have to look at both of those parts to determine which once is not working. Your tub bearing is one of the easier ones. You would just look at that part to see if it is worn. You could also take a look at your brake assembly as well. If both of those parts are fine, it may actually be your motor that is the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Jeff
November 5, 2017
My machine spins fine, and the pump works fine, problem is it will not agitate. Both belts have been changed as a possibility, no change. With the belts off, drive pulley turns both directions but not freely, motor slides smoothly on the mounts, when in agitate mode there is no noise or grinding - just doesn't agitate and the belt slips on the pulley. Could this part be part of the problem/solution?Thanks
For model number A5000
Hi Jeff,
Thank you for your question. I would suggest taking a look at the agitator cogs inside of your agitator. They have tiny teeth on the outer side and sometimes (because the part is plastic) they can wear down over time and your agitator will not agitate. I would also suggest taking a look at the agitator itself as well. It could be that there is a part at the base that has worn down and may need to be replaced. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Mark
January 17, 2018
My washer chirps really loudly just during spin. It is not a constant sound. Also it makes loud chirp when I lift the lid. I replaced the belts and the same thing happens. The machine does not leak. I was going to replace the tub bearing kit next. I do not want to take this apart again so I thought also of the mounting stem tub seal kit, tub gasket, damper pad kit, centering springs, and glide and spring kit on the motor. What else am I not seeing other than maybe bearings around brake assembly?
For model number LAT9304AAE
Hello Mark,
Thanks for your question. Given your situation, the brake is the most likely cause for your issue. The bearings are a possibility as well, but the brake is the most common reason.
I hope this helps.
My moms washer during the spin cycle will either have the motor spin and not have the tub spin in which case the belt gets smoked and/or the motor overheats, or the tub spins but at the beginning of every rotation the motor really struggles until the tub gets up to full speed. Is her issue the brake, bearings, the transmission, or ?? fyi, both drive belts and the pump were just replaced.
For model number LAT9706AAE
Hello Mike, Thank you for the question. This sounds like an issue with the Transmission, PartSelect Number PS2347239. Hope this helps!
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Shelly
March 20, 2018
Our washer is 20 years old. Just finished installing new damper pads, tub stem mounting kit, belts, and cleaned. After putting it back together and running a couple of test loads, no more leaks or 'walking' (yea!); but found water was sloshing out of the top of tub. Finally figured out tub was spinning while agitating and the brake wasn't engaging. So, my first thought was to disassemble the pulley/brake again thinking that i had missed a step putting it back together. I'm also not sure i had the stop lug installed correctly. Once i got to the brake removal (i do have the brake wrench), i couldn't get the brake loose. It and the transmission spin when i attempt to loosen the brake. Pardon my lack of knowledge since this was a first for me, but i have several questions. 1. After reading a couple of the posts here and noting that one person 'blocked' the tub/transmission before installing the brake, is it possible the brake is misaligned? 2. Because i can't get the brake loose again, is it possible i installed it too tight? 3. Would not having the correct spacing between the stop lug (assuming 'rounded side up' from the video means the top of the washer) and pulley potentially cause the brake not engaging issue? 4. Or last, but not least, is it possible that the brake went south after being removed for the first time and i just need a new brake? I appreciate any and all helpful tips you can provide. By the way, the videos on the website are really very helpful! Thank you!
For model number LAT9206BAE
Hi Shelly,
Thank you for your question. If your washer is spinning and agitating at the same time, the issue is with the transmission and it will need to be replaced. The part number listed under your model number for the Orbital Transmission Kit - Deep Tub is PS2347239. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Darin
May 23, 2019
I can spin the clutch by hand, both belts have been replaced, and the transmission spins when i spin the clutch by hand. When running on agitation cycle, the clutch appears locked and the agitator is very difficult to move, but on spin cycle the wash drum spins normally and the clutch and transmission move as normal. Is it a malfunctioning brake?
For model number Maytag A5000
Hello Darin, thank you for inquiring. For this symptom, besides the Belts part PS2005284, you will want to replace either the Glide and Spring Kit part PS2017149, or the Tension Springs part PS2016844. We hope this helps.
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Greg
May 6, 2023
I need to replace the tub bearing however, I can’t get the agitator off.
I found only one (1) set screw and removed it but, the agitator will not move.
What’s the process of removal?
For model number A211
Hi Greg, thank you for reaching out. We have researched the model and found a video to help you replace the tub bearing. The washer in the video may vary in appearance, but the assembly and disassembly instructions are almost the same. It also includes the instructions for removing the agitator. We hope this helps, good luck with the repair!
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Edward
August 12, 2019
My dryer won't spin but belts are new. What can that be
For model number LAT7306AAE
Hi Edward, thank you for your question. It looks like you might want to check your lid switch, your brake rotor bearing, your brake assembly, rear bearing, and your motor pulley as well. If those parts are fine then it might be your transmission or motor that are the issue. Good luck with your repair.
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Paul
July 14, 2021
Old Maytag washer. Noticed a burning rubber smell. Thought it was the drive belts. Replaced both. They were worn but not bad. Adjusted tension on new belts. Filled and ran spin cycle normal spin speed and pump drain. Added dirty clothes and started normal wash cycle. Noticed burning rubber smell again and that agitator is not working. Any ideas?
For model number LAT9416AAE
Hello Paul, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking for wear or damage to the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit. If both are good, you may have a defective Drive Motor. We hope this helps!
I trying to check the bearing and brake but having trouble removing the agitator. Removed the set screw at the base but it will not budge.
Is there a specific tool to use?
For model number A211
Hi Greg, thank you for the question. If the agitator cannot be removed even after removing the set screw at the base, it means that the agitator is stuck. To remove it, first, take a tow strap and wrap it around a board. Slide the strap under the agitator, and now pull the agitator up with the help of the board. We hope this helps!
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