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PartSelect Number PS11742505
This element carries 5200W and 240V.
Note: This element no longer includes two terminals and two adapter leads. They must be ordered separately.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Disconnected/marked all wires for element and 2 heating sensors. Removed upper strap that secured top of the heating element housing (tube). Removed housing by seperating top from dryer wall and lifting up on base; sliding down and out (may have to tip back of dryer up before sliding out). Once housing was out, removed single screw attaching base of element to housing and removed. Inserted new element and attached hardware/wiring in reverse order. Ran dryer for approximately 10-15 minutes; ensuring any residue was burnt off before use. This dryer is about 20 years old; after this easy repair it's now running like new. It used to take about 70-90 mins to dry a load of laundry, but now it takes about 30-40 mins. I'm very pleased that I saved money repairing this myself vs. purchasing a new dryer.
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I would not consider myself a do it yourselfer as I have done appliance service since 1970 but now work as an instrumentation technician.
The biggest problem was getting the back of my dryer off. After that, the heating element was relatively easy. I followed the steps from this site. First I removed the two screws holding the heating cannister in place and disconnected the two wires connected to the actual element. The Element slid right out and I replaced it with the new one that came (delivered in two days after I ordered it). Then I just redid everything in reverse to get the back back on to the dryer, plugged it in and got heat right away!
Looked at the videos, opened top and took off back pulled thermal fuse and heating element. Element coil was broke, Matched part numbers and ordered parts 3 to 5 days shipping. Recieved the next day and put back together and it works fine. Wife happy.
Replaced heating element,thermal fuse,cycling thermostat,thermal cut off kit and don't forget to flip your dryer fuse in the breaker panel that was a big one for me. Hope this helps you.
After reading a few online suggestions I didn't take any chances with the repair. I had looked at the heating element enclousure and found the thermostats and thermal fuse. I found the parts I needed on PartSelect and ordered all three. The thermostats were easy to replace as they were located in plain view. Removing the old heating element was a little more difficult but once I found the screw at the top of the enclouse (there is a hole in the back of the dryer cabinet above the back cover) I was able to use a nut drive (with extension) to remove the hex head screw and the enclosure came right out. One screw holds the heating element in the enclosure. The old heating element looked like it was rusted through - I'm sure the high heat over the 18 years we've had the dryer caused the oxidation. The whole thing took right at 30 minutes and was basically just removing the old parts and plugging the wires back on to the new parts and replacing the scrwes.
Followed instructions, installed part, apparent after turning on dryer and still no heat we didnt fix the problem yet, will try another different part at a later time. At least we know we will have a fresh heating element.
I first disconnected the power, dryer vent hose, back panel, disconnected power leads to heater element. Next removed top screw to the heater box, slid the box up and away from lower mount. At this point I was able to remove 1 ea lower screw holding heater element in place. Removed heater element and installed new element. Put everything back in reverse order and started dryer. (Note: Be sure dryer door is closed prior to starting dryer)Yep, I screwed that up. It no "worky" when dryer door is open. Once the door was shut, it worked like a champ.
First of all the instructions with the part were not very plain to understand so I returned to the web site and read some of the other custormers instructions and was able to figure out how to replace the part. Just had to unscrew the back panel and remove the screws from the heating element housing and then I took the screws out of the lint compartment so I could remove the whole housing to remove the screw that held the heating element to the housing and was easy to cut the eletric wire and conect the new wires and twist the new wire cap on and put everything back together. I was so glad that when I turned the dryer back on I had heat. I am 57 year old women and If I can figure of how to fix my ole dryer than I think anyone can. When I can I will order the part for a new timer. And I hope that my dryer will last another 10 years.
Unplugged dryer. Removed back panel from dryer. Using needlenose pliers, disconnected wires going into heating element housing cover. They basically just unplug. You have to wiggle them a little with the pliers to get them unplugged. The housing cover is the large metal piece on the right side of the dryer. Kind of looks like a catalytic converter from a car. Popped off housing cover by putting a large screw driver behind it and gently prying forward. The top came loose from the dryer and I then lifted it up off the two tabs holding it at the bottom. I then unscrewed the one screw holding the element to the bottom of housing cover. I slid the element out, inserted the new element, put the screw back in place and then put the housing unit back in place over the two tabs. I replugged all of the wires into the housing unit, replaced the back cover on the dryer and plugged the dryer into the wall receptacle. I turned the dryer on and it heated up right away. I have since dried several loads and it is working perfectly. By the way, I am a 65 year old housewife. If I can do it, anyone can. Mary McCarthyJacksonville, FL
According to previously submitted instructions. toughest task was replacing the tiny screw at the bottom of the heating element housing. Felt good to plug it in, start it up and voila, heat. thank you for the part.
My son did the repair and thought it went very well. You saved me about $400 to $800 in that I didn't have to buy a new one. You got this part to me in 48 hours and I appreciated your timely manner. Your service is great! Thanks MZ
Fairly straight forward except for hidden 5/16 self tap screw coming from back side of heat ducting that is welded to drier. You have to remove this by feel and restart by feel which may be difficult for some. This screw holds the element to the heat duct. It has to come out
Took off the back panel, and with a little prying got the heating element case off (it's on the right of my LE5800XK). Replaced the heating element, put everything back, and voila, works better than before.
First I took off the back protection plate and vacuumned all the lent away. I looked to see where the heating element was but honestly wasn't sure. So I went to the website and looked at the schematic diagram. Ah ha! It was 15 inches long and was in a riveted casing. So I ordered the element and fuse, not knowing what was broken.When I got the element I was surprised to see that there was only room for one screw. Great! I reached up in the casing and with a wrench took my time and unscrewed it. Looking around I noticed the only way I was going to get that thing out of there was to sort of bend it as I pulled it. Sure enough it slid out and when I looked at it the element was broken in one spot. To get it back in I reversed the procedure and pushed while I bent the frame gently. Then I replaced the fuse, put the plate back on and cranked it up. I was my wife's hero for a couple of days.
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