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PartSelect Number PS11742274
Meant as a backup to a high limit thermostat, this fuse is typically set to trip at a higher temperature than that of a high limit thermostat. This is a one-time use fuse, so when it does trip, you do need to replace it. It's letting you know that something is wrong with your dryer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I just took the bottom front panel off and the parts I needed to rplace where in the back and very easy to get to . I decided to replace all 3 while I was in there. The parts were not to high, so that is why I did that.
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Opened top cover at corners to access screws on each side of front. After removing screws from inside of front door, lift the door and panel off of retainer clipson the bottom front corners. Thermal fuse is located at the back left side mounted on the heating element cover. Can be checked for contunity if open. Next to it is the thermaostat limit control. Both should be replaced, even if just the fuse is open. Why? The dryer took long to dry since it was new. This not only corrected the starting problem, but it now dryes faster. Apparently a defective thermostat limit when it was new.
How to take apart a dryer:The first way:1) Remove front lower panel (2 screws on bottom).2) Remove the front black plastic air duct.3) If you have long arms, or an extention socket wrench, you might be able to reach the heating unit, otherwise use the Second way:The second way:1) Remove front lower panel, as this will expose the screws to the dry door unit.2) Remove dryer door unit (2 screws on bottom, 2 spring clips on top), and disconnect assoc wires.3) Remove dryer lid:3.1) Remove 2 screws on front (previously hidden by door unit3.2) Remove 2 clip hooks on back of dryer3.3) Lift lid rear above center guides, and wiggle away from front spring clips4) Lay dryer on back, as this will allow easier removal of the drum5) Remove screws securing the heater control unit.Attempt 1: Disconnected heating element and saw that the heating coils were broken. Ordered new heating coil and new belt.Attempt 2: 3 weeks after installing new heating element, my wife informed me that the unit was no longer putting out heat!!! So, I ordered the Thermostat and Thermal Fuse. Put dryer back together.Attempt 3: Turned it on - absolutely nothing - dead, dead, dead. Discussed purchasing new $600+ dryer. Started taking it apart again, and discovered that door wire was never reattached. Meaning the dryer thought the door was wide open.Attempt 4: Now the dryer squeaks. Took dryer partially apart and added white grease to wheels that support the drum. Currently, all is well with the world.Moral of the story: Replace the entire heating unit, check belt for cracks and grease the wheels if you get a chance.
A friend did the repair for me. Very simple. Saved me a lot of money by getting the parts and fixing the problem. Thanks!
After finding the culprit was the vent duct no longer connected to the internal drum duct, and cleaning the whole inside of the cabinet out. Must be a dryer made on friday or monday as no clip or screw to keep the two pieces together. Caused it to vent inside the unit. Pulled the bottom off, key is to remove the tension clips that hold the front panel on and then pull it off as there were additional tension clips holding it together. Unscrew the two screws with a nut driver that hold the thermal Fuse part. Change out one wire at a time to keep them aligned properly. Screw it back on, reattach bottom and start it up.
Thermostat failed and would not regulate temperature, thus blowing out high limit thermal fuse as it should, after melting the wire connecting the two components. After replacing both items and the melted wire, I cleaned all the vent ducts to assure that they were clear. The appliance then worked as good as new.
`replaced high limit thermal fuse and limit thermostat. I checked the ohns reading and found they were open circuit. Running great now.
Unplugged unit, unscrewed the old fuse, disconnected the wires then replaced it with the new fuse.
removed the top of unit then the door and front panel. The drum had to come out and the remove the heating element on the back wall. I replace the heating element then the thermal fuse and limit switch. replaced same the reinstalled drum. Kinda tricky with the drive belt but after 15 minutes or so I got it in place. Replaced the door and front panel along with top of unit...plugged back ain and it worked. my cost to repair with board, and 2 switches 89 dollars. If I called a repairman house call started at 150.
I read the parts select troubleshooting Info guide to get an Idea of what could be wrong. I took front of dryer off to gain access to the high limit fuse. After removal of fuse I checked with ohm meter to confirm fuse was blown then replaced with new one. The job was done In less than thirty minutes. Anyone with any basic mechanical skills can do this repair easily
Remove screws to top of appliance lid and control panel paying close attention to location and type of screws. Lift back of top panel and lift off front top lid until it snaps up. Slide top panel to side and remove upper front panel screws from the inside of dryer one on left and one on right. Be careful to not let front door fall outward. Slide door panel up off of hooks at base of panel. Remove duct assembly by removing three screws located on the inside of the dryer at the front. Slide out and remove air duct assembly.Removing the High Limit Thermal Fuse was straight forward. Didn't really understand the online instructions but performed a continuity test across terminals and there was no continuity, so I replaced.Repare took 1-2 hours, next time will probably cut in half now that I know where to remove screws to access motors & fuses and dryer assemblies at base of dryer.
First I removed two screws that held front lower panel on, then the three srews that held plastic blower sheild on and removed it, then I removed the two screws that held the element inplace, pulled it forward to the front of the machine, plenty of wire length available.I unscrewed one themal fuse at a time and replaced with the new one so I did not cross the wires. I then reinstalled the element to the machine reattached with the scews.
I followed the Part Select troubleshooting information and was able to pinpoint the problem, which turned out to be a thermal fuse. I ordered the new fuse, which arrived in two days via UPS. I checked the new fuse for continuity and then installed it. I figured that something must have caused the thermal fuse to teach the temperature at which it activated, so I checked the thermostats and the dryer vent to make sure it was not plugged. Neither of these was a problem, so I decided to change the fuse out, which solved the problem.
This Web site is a treasure. I found it and watched the repair videos. First, remove the bottom panel on the front of the dryer, the one below the door. Then remove the door panel, detaching the signal and light wires. Be sure to mark them first, as to which is on top and which is first. Then I removed the drum panel, with the lint box attached - you only need to remove that from the drum panel if you want to clean the inside of it. Lastly I removed the drum. You have to take the belt off the roller underneath first. After taking everything off from the front, it's super easy to get to the fuse and thermostat in the back. The most challenging part was putting the belt back onto the roller. It has a spring, so you have to stretch it far enough so that the belt will fit around it. Be sure to watch the video to understand the configuration of the belt and roller. Good luck!
In my case I had no idea initially what was wrong so I tore the entire dryer apart. Took the control panel apart, the front kick plate off, the door assemly off, then took the entire dryer housing off the base so I could get to everything. It was at this point I decided to try to seriously repair it myself. I found PartsSelect, read through the appropriate repair stories and determined the only real possible parts. I ordered the parts, received them promptly, and replaced 4 of the 5. The parts were easy to replace, just unplug the wires, used a socket set to remove the bolts holding them and replaced. I also unplugged the two wires to the element, unbolted it, cleaned it out and replaced it. The 5th part, the roller shaft did not have to be replaced. The original was in fine condition, it had simply loosened and was wobbly from 12 years of use. The bearing was still perfect with no slack in the shaft at all. After hooking up what I needed to for a test run, all was well. I then took about 2 hours to put everything back together. The dryer now works perfectly........dries loads completely in approx. 30 minutes and runs whisper quiet.
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