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PartSelect Number PS11742274
Meant as a backup to a high limit thermostat, this fuse is typically set to trip at a higher temperature than that of a high limit thermostat. This is a one-time use fuse, so when it does trip, you do need to replace it. It's letting you know that something is wrong with your dryer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I removed two screws that held front lower panel on, then the three srews that held plastic blower sheild on and removed it, then I removed the two screws that held the element inplace, pulled it forward to the front of the machine, plenty of wire length available.I unscrewed one themal fuse at a time and replaced with the new one so I did not cross the wires. I then reinstalled the element to the machine reattached with the scews.
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I followed the Part Select troubleshooting information and was able to pinpoint the problem, which turned out to be a thermal fuse. I ordered the new fuse, which arrived in two days via UPS. I checked the new fuse for continuity and then installed it. I figured that something must have caused the thermal fuse to teach the temperature at which it activated, so I checked the thermostats and the dryer vent to make sure it was not plugged. Neither of these was a problem, so I decided to change the fuse out, which solved the problem.
This Web site is a treasure. I found it and watched the repair videos. First, remove the bottom panel on the front of the dryer, the one below the door. Then remove the door panel, detaching the signal and light wires. Be sure to mark them first, as to which is on top and which is first. Then I removed the drum panel, with the lint box attached - you only need to remove that from the drum panel if you want to clean the inside of it. Lastly I removed the drum. You have to take the belt off the roller underneath first. After taking everything off from the front, it's super easy to get to the fuse and thermostat in the back. The most challenging part was putting the belt back onto the roller. It has a spring, so you have to stretch it far enough so that the belt will fit around it. Be sure to watch the video to understand the configuration of the belt and roller. Good luck!
In my case I had no idea initially what was wrong so I tore the entire dryer apart. Took the control panel apart, the front kick plate off, the door assemly off, then took the entire dryer housing off the base so I could get to everything. It was at this point I decided to try to seriously repair it myself. I found PartsSelect, read through the appropriate repair stories and determined the only real possible parts. I ordered the parts, received them promptly, and replaced 4 of the 5. The parts were easy to replace, just unplug the wires, used a socket set to remove the bolts holding them and replaced. I also unplugged the two wires to the element, unbolted it, cleaned it out and replaced it. The 5th part, the roller shaft did not have to be replaced. The original was in fine condition, it had simply loosened and was wobbly from 12 years of use. The bearing was still perfect with no slack in the shaft at all. After hooking up what I needed to for a test run, all was well. I then took about 2 hours to put everything back together. The dryer now works perfectly........dries loads completely in approx. 30 minutes and runs whisper quiet.
The video on the site was very helpful in completing the repair. The one suggestion I woul make is to check the actual heating element before ordering the Thermal Fuse. In my case the new fuse did not work because there was a break in the actual heatng coils. I replaced the heating element and it works fine now.
I ordered the parts from a local Maytag dealer and they gave me the wrong parts. I called them back and they said it would cost me $75.00 plus labor and parts. I said no thanks. Ordered the parts online got it in 3 days. Repair took me 25 mins and I only spent $6 plus shipping. The repair video helped a lot , thanks.
Easy, but the directional video on the website wasnt for the dryer my daughter had. Didnt have to take all apart as directed. Should have only taken the lower cover off the front of the dryer. But, got the chance to really vacuum & clean out all the extra build up of lint that was a Major fire hazard. Turned out good in the end, Dryer heats like it should now. Thanks from TEXAS
Remove front bottom panel, remove fuse, replace with new fuse, replace front cover
not sure if it was the fuse or the limit thermostat because for $15 I re[laced both, just in case. quick and easy and the online video was awesome. it took longer to fit it back together than it took to take it apart and replace the componants.
Online research ... found PartSelect ... pointed to High Limit Thermal Fuse being most likely culprit ... bought Limit Thermostat just in case to save shipping ... turns out probably didn't need it, but replaced while the heater assembly was out in open. Only had to remove bottom "kick-plate," then Lint Duct Assembly (good thing ... was half full with debris) ... then heating element ... total 11 screws ... easy ... half time research, half work.
It was easy . Romove the top then the front cover then remove the drum ,take the drive belt off before removing the drum .the element board is on the left lower conner , remove the bolts and wires take photo of disasembly for referance then remove the old parts and replace with new .assemble the dryer .make sure that you unplug the unit before you start you repair .
Unplug the unit. Tip the machine to the rear, and put a block under the front to gain access the bottom of the front panel. the Remove the 2 screws on the lower front panel, and remove the panel. Remove the 2 screws holding the door assembly. This assembly has clips that hold it on top, so pull out on the bottom, and pull down. Be sure to mark the wires on the door switch. Remove plastic blower box assembly. This is fastened from inside the drum with 3 phillips screws. The heating element and thermal fuse are located in the left rear corner of the machine. Remove 2 screws holding assembly, and pull it out to the front of the machine...the wires are long enough to allow this. The thermal fuse is screwed right to the element. Just lay the elements side by side, and transfer the wires from 1 to the other. Put everything back together in reverse order. My dryer now works like new. This is an easy job for an average handyman.
Took the dryer apart and tested the parts with multimeter. Saw that fuse was out. Ordered two fuses and heating element although only one fuse was bad. Just to help the dryer last longer replaced another fuse and heat element. Parts select had the parts their within two days and it was a holiday weekend. We were amazed. Thanks
This is an easy fix with just 2 small screws holding the unit in place. NOTE that if the dryer is plugged in, there IS current to the leads and they are hot.It will make the buzzer sound if you ground the unit to the dryer, or it will make your finger buzz if you cross the wrong terminals with your finger.Best to unplug the dryer before the replacement.
The hardest thing was getting to the part once I was to that process it went really well
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