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PartSelect Number PS11742274
Meant as a backup to a high limit thermostat, this fuse is typically set to trip at a higher temperature than that of a high limit thermostat. This is a one-time use fuse, so when it does trip, you do need to replace it. It's letting you know that something is wrong with your dryer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The video on the web-site was very helpful in showing how to take it apart. First we remove the power plug from the wall outlet. Then we used flat scrapper to push the top two hidden clips to release the Dryer's top. We used the nut driver to unscrew the two screws that held the front panel. We carefully remove the wires that were connected to switch sensor for the door, and the lights. Next step was to unscrew couple more screws that held the front piece from the main fan housing. At the bottom locate the tensioner of the belt. Release it. Remove the dryer drum with the belt. We took the opportunity to clean off the lint that was all over on the bottom of the dryer. We then could reach the bottom left back of the dryer to unscrew the screws that held the heater unit. Before that we unscrew and release the wires for the Thermal fuse and the limit thermostat which are all located on the heating unit. Then we replace with new pieces. Upon removal of the heating unit we noticed the broken heating element. Next was to place the drum back in. We made sure that the drum lined up with the rear support piece then the front. We rotated the drum just to make sure that it was sitting correctly. Then we screwed the front housing unit. Then we put the front panel back on the hooks at the bottom. That help to line up the front panel with the main chasis. We connected all the connectors to the right terminals. Last was to set the top down on to the chasis. We checked that the duct in the rear is not obstucted. Lastly was plugging in the power cord and testing the dryer. It is working again. Thanks to Part Select's video and parts. Total time was just over half an hour.
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Were these instructions helpful?
I just took the bottom front panel off and the parts I needed to rplace where in the back and very easy to get to . I decided to replace all 3 while I was in there. The parts were not to high, so that is why I did that.
A friend did the repair for me. Very simple. Saved me a lot of money by getting the parts and fixing the problem. Thanks!
Opened top cover at corners to access screws on each side of front. After removing screws from inside of front door, lift the door and panel off of retainer clipson the bottom front corners. Thermal fuse is located at the back left side mounted on the heating element cover. Can be checked for contunity if open. Next to it is the thermaostat limit control. Both should be replaced, even if just the fuse is open. Why? The dryer took long to dry since it was new. This not only corrected the starting problem, but it now dryes faster. Apparently a defective thermostat limit when it was new.
Remove screws to top of appliance lid and control panel paying close attention to location and type of screws. Lift back of top panel and lift off front top lid until it snaps up. Slide top panel to side and remove upper front panel screws from the inside of dryer one on left and one on right. Be careful to not let front door fall outward. Slide door panel up off of hooks at base of panel. Remove duct assembly by removing three screws located on the inside of the dryer at the front. Slide out and remove air duct assembly.Removing the High Limit Thermal Fuse was straight forward. Didn't really understand the online instructions but performed a continuity test across terminals and there was no continuity, so I replaced.Repare took 1-2 hours, next time will probably cut in half now that I know where to remove screws to access motors & fuses and dryer assemblies at base of dryer.
How to take apart a dryer:The first way:1) Remove front lower panel (2 screws on bottom).2) Remove the front black plastic air duct.3) If you have long arms, or an extention socket wrench, you might be able to reach the heating unit, otherwise use the Second way:The second way:1) Remove front lower panel, as this will expose the screws to the dry door unit.2) Remove dryer door unit (2 screws on bottom, 2 spring clips on top), and disconnect assoc wires.3) Remove dryer lid:3.1) Remove 2 screws on front (previously hidden by door unit3.2) Remove 2 clip hooks on back of dryer3.3) Lift lid rear above center guides, and wiggle away from front spring clips4) Lay dryer on back, as this will allow easier removal of the drum5) Remove screws securing the heater control unit.Attempt 1: Disconnected heating element and saw that the heating coils were broken. Ordered new heating coil and new belt.Attempt 2: 3 weeks after installing new heating element, my wife informed me that the unit was no longer putting out heat!!! So, I ordered the Thermostat and Thermal Fuse. Put dryer back together.Attempt 3: Turned it on - absolutely nothing - dead, dead, dead. Discussed purchasing new $600+ dryer. Started taking it apart again, and discovered that door wire was never reattached. Meaning the dryer thought the door was wide open.Attempt 4: Now the dryer squeaks. Took dryer partially apart and added white grease to wheels that support the drum. Currently, all is well with the world.Moral of the story: Replace the entire heating unit, check belt for cracks and grease the wheels if you get a chance.
Opened things, saw lint buildup, cleaned inside of dryer, then cleaned entire vent discharge system, put new thermal fuse back, turned on dryer and heard metal to metal, opened dryer back up, saw missing glides (both gone). Ordered what I thought were 2 glides, 2 days later 1 showed, called and was told I didn't "update" when I changed order info (parts supplier cautioned to replace 2, should only sell in pairs) so then had to wait again for 2nd glide to show up. Replaced them today and noticed dried clothes are now cooler when finished. Will note in future if clothes are warmer, clean ductwork.
Follow the instructions on this webside
After finding the culprit was the vent duct no longer connected to the internal drum duct, and cleaning the whole inside of the cabinet out. Must be a dryer made on friday or monday as no clip or screw to keep the two pieces together. Caused it to vent inside the unit. Pulled the bottom off, key is to remove the tension clips that hold the front panel on and then pull it off as there were additional tension clips holding it together. Unscrew the two screws with a nut driver that hold the thermal Fuse part. Change out one wire at a time to keep them aligned properly. Screw it back on, reattach bottom and start it up.
Thermostat failed and would not regulate temperature, thus blowing out high limit thermal fuse as it should, after melting the wire connecting the two components. After replacing both items and the melted wire, I cleaned all the vent ducts to assure that they were clear. The appliance then worked as good as new.
`replaced high limit thermal fuse and limit thermostat. I checked the ohns reading and found they were open circuit. Running great now.
Unplug dryer. Remove front lower panel, remove black air duct, remove heater element on back wall of dryer, pull wire spade connections off element, transfer wires and plugs onto new element, install new fuse, install heating element into dryer, replace duct and outer cover. Pretty easy with a socket driver.
Unplugged unit, unscrewed the old fuse, disconnected the wires then replaced it with the new fuse.
removed the top of unit then the door and front panel. The drum had to come out and the remove the heating element on the back wall. I replace the heating element then the thermal fuse and limit switch. replaced same the reinstalled drum. Kinda tricky with the drive belt but after 15 minutes or so I got it in place. Replaced the door and front panel along with top of unit...plugged back ain and it worked. my cost to repair with board, and 2 switches 89 dollars. If I called a repairman house call started at 150.
I read the parts select troubleshooting Info guide to get an Idea of what could be wrong. I took front of dryer off to gain access to the high limit fuse. After removal of fuse I checked with ohm meter to confirm fuse was blown then replaced with new one. The job was done In less than thirty minutes. Anyone with any basic mechanical skills can do this repair easily
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