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PartSelect Number PS11742271
At 93-3/8" inches in length, this dryer drum belt from Amana has five ridges. It is all black in color and is made entirely of rubber. A flat belt, it is 3/8 of an inch wide.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First had to remove the front panel after lifting the top up on its hinges and supporting it. Diconnected wires to the front panel after marking them where they go. Saw where drum was rubbing above the impeller housing for the fan. Removed the drum slides and replaced them with new slides and brackets. Removed the belt and replaced it. It is a little tricky with the belt on the tensioner so pay close attention on how you remove it, it will make putting the new one on easier.Replaced the felt gasket with high temp glue. Cleaned inside and outside of cabinet. Put the panel back on,hooked up the wires and it looks and runs like new again.
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Removal of the entire 2 front panelsRemoval of the heat exchanger into the drumRemoval and replacement of the beltReinstallation of the heat exchanger, and both front panels
First unplug anf turn off the gas to the dryer.1. Remove the 2 screws located at the bottom of the front panel. 2. Use a flat head screw driver to pry the top of the dryer lid. The clips are pretty strong. This allows the front dryer panel to be removed.3. Remove the 4 screws that hold the front of the drum ring in place.4. Slide drum belt off of motor. Not the belt path before removing it.5. Remove drum. This will give you complete access to the dum support roller.6. This is a good time to vaccum the inside of the dryer.7. You will need a pair of snap ring plyers to remove the snap ring that holds the roller in place.8. Replace roller.9. Reverse installation.10. It runs great and has not been the quite in 10 years.I would definitely use Parts Select again.The parts shipped quickly and correctly.
I followed the instructions found on this site. The hardest part was figuring out how to release the clamps at the front of the dryer so I could remove the top.The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
i am sorry i dont know all the technical term but here it goes, first I turned of the electrical breaker to the dryer, I unpluged the dryer and disconnected the dryer hose to the outside of home, I removed front dryer panel, remove front of drum panel, removed belt and found it to be worn, removed drum, removed the wiring connected to the back panel that had heating element inside, removed the back panel, removed the heating element inside the back panel and then reassembled unit. I had question whether or not it would ever run again, but it is working fine. Thank you for your prompt attention with sending the parts. i dont know if there was a different way to solve this problem, but i felt if there was an expection plate on the side of the unit, it would be helpful.
Dryer would only tumble for ~15 min then stop. During this time it would be really loud. Turns out to be a bad Motor. To replace 1) Removed bottom kick panel by removing 2 screws. 2) Then removed upper front cover by 2 additional screws. 3) Disconnected thermostat (marking location of wires on paper). 4) Removed blower housing (3 screws)undid the rib belt from the drum by pushing the pulley wheel up so the belt could be loosened and removed from motor. 5)Removed the front cover of the dryer opening by removing 2 screws. 6) Lifted up and then puled it out to expose the drum. 7) Removed the drum w/belt from the dryer exposing the motor. 8) Removed 2 screws from the motor and disconnected the plug from it. Slid it all the way out. 9) Need to remove (3 screws) the metal faceplate from motor to access the blower wheel (plastic). 10) Unscrewed the plastic wheel and removed 2 screws to remove the motor from the frame. reversed the process for reassembly. Sounds tougher than it really was - only took 30-45 min. Suggestion - write down on paper location of any wires you disconnect - makes reassembly very easy. Also recommend vacuuming any lint in the dryer while it is completely accessible.
I went to RepairClinic.com & FixYa.com for some great advice. I searched the internet for the parts. PartSelect.com was the most inexpensive. Delivery was good. Using the repairman's manual I found on the internet I followed the steps to remove each panel, in order. The wiring was the most bothersome, but okay to resolve; write it down and pull it off! I don't think the rollers, in the back, were bad. The tension idler was extremely worn. I tightened the tension idler bracket at the base. I did need to use an O-Ring Spreader to get all the rollers off and on. Although there were more panels to remove than older models, it was easier! Wrap the belt around the drum before reinstalling. The belt will loop around the drive & tensioner relatively easy. Replace the rubber seal around the drum & replace all the panels. Things are quieter now than I can remember in a long time.
Unlike the other stories I read (and the video posted on the site), my unit had a lower maintenance panel on the front face which required quite a different disassembly. Once I took off the lower panel, there were screws at the bottom of the top panel. Once removed, the top front panel came out and exposed the necessary interior components. In order to get the drum out, I took out the screws holding the front of the top on and wiggled the drum out. From there I removed the belt and offending idler lever, put in the new ones and hooked the spring back up. Reverse procedure to assemble and the problem is completely gone. I even found and removed an unexpected hair band from the front skid plate. Pretty doable if you're willing to spend the time.
Unable to find a repair manual or accurate diagram, I forged ahead and removed the top and front panels of the dryer. It took two tries to figure out how to thread the belt (nine of my ten thumbs kept getting in the way!), but after a coffee break, the job came together, and I've taken the clothesline down!
Propped the machine up in the front, removed the front panel, the door assembly, and the front drum support. Use a Sharpie to mark wire positions. This will help during re-assembly. To get the drum out, you first have to remove the belt from the motor pulley. Drum slides right out. You will need snap-ring pliers to remove the pulley from the idler arm. I also replaced the drive belt because it was cheap, and always a good idea to replace it when you are this far into the machine if it is a few years old. Re-assemble in the reverse order of disassembly. An easy fix for the average do-it-yourself person.
unplug appliance.removed 2 screws @ the rear of dryer top to tip lid back. unplugged the door switch wires.took out 3 philip screws that hold lint screen to inside of drum.removed 2 screws @ dryer front top. lifted dryer front panel off. the drum was now loose. slipped off old belt - replaced with new. set drum back into place. made sure new belt was on motor pulley & behind tensioner pulley arm. replace & reconnect items in reverse order. plug back in & test. after seeing the wear on the plastic tensioner pulley i regret not ordering that part for replacement also.
I was somewhat intimidated by the fact that dryers are all repaired from the front. Pulling out the drum seemed scary at first, but that turned out to be very easy. After removing the front panel and lint shroud it is easy to reach the idler pulley and take the tension off the belt. If you're going to replace the rollers which is generally the cause of the noise, get new retaining wrings and a decent pair of pliers for them. The rings can lose all their spring easily by strechting them too far to get them off. Replace the idler pulley and belt while you have the dryer apart. Vacuum all the lint out of there and you're good to go.
I first unpluged the dryer. Then I Removed two screws and removed bottom cover, Then removed the door assembly.Here I had to unplug the light and door switches. I then removed the four screws that holds the tub mount in place, Then I removed the eight screws that hold the blower cover in place, then removed the blower. replaced blower and reassembled in reverse. I started the dryer and it worked fine.
I pretty much followed a lot of the earlier postings on partselect.com that provided encouragement to pursue replacing this part on my 17 year old dryer (sorry, money is tight these days and I prefer repair to $800 replacement).I'd like to add that I borrowed a pair of snap-ring pliers from work which made removal and later securing of roller onto shaft much easier and probably avoided a lot of knuckle bruising and cursing.I erred though in a couple of places during the replacement. Disassembly took about 20 minutes. However, when I re-assembled I had mistakenly already put the roller onto the shaft before trying to put the drum back in. That isn't possible so I had to remove (an initial groan but only a few extra minutes in the end) the roller from the shaft, then reposition the drum and then the roller back on the shaft.I also decided to replace the belt while I was in there and I should have taken a picture or made a drawing of the belt route before I took it off since I was later left pondering how the heck to snake the belt onto the shaft and also the tensioner. A quick trip to the internet though showed me a similar route and reminded me how to route it.I'd also like to add to be cognizant of the wires on the door and front panel when disassembling.Anyone with any sense of mechanical ability and a little common sense ought to be able to do this repiar.Thanks Part Select!
Parts that were recommended for the noise issue were spot on. Instructions were very helpful and made the job go very smooth. Replaced the belt, rollers don't forget to order (2) felt pad and idler pulley replaced. The part suggestions for the heat problem did not fix the problem. The burner flame would come on for 2-5 min. then go off. A few min. later the burner would try to ignite but would not start. The igniter would get cherry red but no activation. I end up replacing the coil kit. Turned off the gas removed (2) screws and wala done 5 min. and it fixed the problem.
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