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PartSelect Number PS11742271
At 93-3/8" inches in length, this dryer drum belt from Amana has five ridges. It is all black in color and is made entirely of rubber. A flat belt, it is 3/8 of an inch wide.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
remove front panels starting with lower panel and then the upper panel and also the screws that hold the top,lift the to and support it out of the way. removed the front drum support and reached in and took the belt off the idler pulley and then remove the drum. at this point you can get to the idler pulley and the drum support rollers. remove the snap rings and the old rollers and pulley and install the new parts in revers of removal. wrap the new belt around drum and place the drum on the rear support and reinstall the front drum support and put the belt on the same way as removed. reinstall front panels . doneSafety note: Be sure that the dryer plug and receptacle has no corrosion, mine did since the dryer is never unplugged since being installed, and after about 1/2 hr I could smell something burning and it was the plug and receptacle had melted due to a poor connection. Temp of the plug was over 160 deg. Installed new outlet and plug, all fine now
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Removed the front panel of the dryer and drum to replace the rollers. You will need a snap ring pliers to remove the locking snap ring holding the rollers, replaced rollers, installed new drum belt and replaced the front dyer panel.Tested the dryer no more noise.Thanks
Pulled bottom access panel of, pulled front door section off, pulled lint filter assembly out, pulled drum out, disconnected idler arm, installed new idler arm and wheel, new belt around drum, drum back in, front door assembly back on, then routed belt over idler arm wheel, lint assembly back on, bottom access panel back on. very easy job, the hardest part was pushing the new idler wheel over the new pulley lever, but with a few firm taps with a hammer it was on. *Tips...save the idler wheel washers and retaining clip from bad wheel and be sure to draw yourself a diagram of what color wires hook up where, in case you forget.
I removed the bottom panel, then the larger front panel that includes the door. After that, removed the top 2 screws so that the top would swing up (but not lift off). After that, I removed the front "bulkhead", and the drum. Then it was just a short matter of sweeping everything out, and replacing the parts one by one. Most came off with a socket, or snap ring pliers. Pretty obvious at this point...Be sure to label any wires - I removed 5 wires all total, and wrote down the colors and where they went.It's great to have help when working with the drum. BTW, you CAN replace the belt without taking out the drum, but you better have strong fingers to move the belt tensioner and slip the belt on it - all with one hand. I did it, but that was the least "fun" part....
pulled dryer out far enough to lean it back against an object for supprt. removed small bottom front cover then door front after disconecting light and switch wires(make note of which goes where), remove top bolts and flip over carefully allowing to hang without disconnecting wire harness, remove belt and drum. at this point it was posible to get to the belt tentioner pully w/o removing the motor but was easier to replace after i discovered there were only two bolts holding the motor in place. at this point i needed two wrenches to remove the pully lever from the motor frame and replace. put everything back together in reverse and no more screaching. : total parts needed were $27.00 as i thankfully decided to replace pully and lever asumming that six months of screaching may have caused wear to the lever and was right. i replaced the belt while i was in there bringing the total to $42 and change. the belt was not needed so i now have a spare which may come in handy someday. thanks to partselect.com i saved BIG $ in repairs or replacement and now have turned the buzzer on to know when the laundry is done.
took bottom panel off of dryer which is held on by two screws,turned on dryer and could plainly see that the back left drum roller was just flopping around ordered a new one and also a new drum belt as the one that was on there was frayed. parts came in a few days later job took less than one hour very easy job for anyone with basic skills on using tools,wife is very happy
Downloaded an Amana service manual and followed directions. Easy...and was able to clean out built up lint not to mention a couple of dollars in change!
Used spackle knife to pop clips on top of dryer. Raised lid of dryer to expose belt. Next used nut driver to disassembly screws from front door and then base ( bag them. Labeled bag and marked inside of dryer with corresponding number to match hardware) disassembled dryer door latch switch and marked red + and white no marking. ( Middle connection not used) removed dryer clean out screen and then removed dryer face next removed dryer blower cover no hardware ( just lift upwards see side clips) opened up side of dryer to gain more access (spread apart manually) removed belt and marked where belt was on tumbler postion with permanent marker used 2 car hold down cords to hold drum in place with back of dryer next removed belt from idler (note to make a drawing so that you know how to wrap this around the idler otherwise the belt will appear to be too large. Remember to reconnect spring. Next step was to removed drum rollers. . . This required a retaining ring pliers cost about $15. I replaced the snap retaining rings. This was easy but requires that you pull the drum forward about 4 inches to position. Next replaced belt and reassembled. Project was a success and runs like new. . . . Saved me $129 service call plus $65 parts without maytag mark-up plus additional labor for the job $130. My cost $65 + $15 tool (retaining ring pliers) $80 versus $259 + ( $65 *50%)ark up on parts) $80 versus $356 -- thanks parts select for saving me $276 during the christmas holiday.
I found a shrieking noise repair on this website, followed their instructions (winging it a bit) and was able to fix my dryer for the price of those parts - excellent!!! As the other instructions said, mark EVERY wire.I have additional instructions - MARK EVERY SCREW you remove. I had 4 extras when I was finished and now I'm a bit worried about where they belong :)
I pried open the top of the dryer with a screwdriver. i took digital pictures (for reference)of 3 sets of wires needing to be unplugged during repair. I removed 6 nut screws to get to the repair. took the barrel out, replaced the pully wheel and belt paying attention to how they were originally. The pully was a little awkward to take off and put on, but not bad. My dryer purrs now. yahoooo!
Identified Problem by using silicone spray on drum bearing wheels, when noise stopped I knew bearings were bad. Removed drum per PartsSelect diagram of my dryer then removed wheels, and bearing shaft.Will need a snap ring pliers with small holes to remove snap rings. I ordered new shafts, washers,snap rings,drum wheels, and belt. Installing belt use two hands and make sure tension bar is correct review belt locations before repair. Also cleaned and vacumned inside of Dryer. Remember to unplug, I did not and when door was removed I caused a short that blew fuse, lucky that I did not damage dryer in process. Working well now with no nose.
Found the belt was making the noise because it was badly cracked. Took the front of the dryer off and removed the s/s tumbling drum. Checked the ideler wheels and the tension wheel for wear and found none. Re-assembled the dryer with the new belt. After this was completed I replaced the time control in the top panel. This was rather easy as it only slips out after taking apart the box. After this the machine was switched on and every think ran quietly again. The discriptions and pictures used in thier web site is very helpful and shipment was very quick.
Unscrew front, detach electrical, tilt back top, remove drum. remove retaining ring and glide, replace ring and guide remove old felt seal, adhere new felt seal with contact cement, remove what was left of felt pads, replace pads and new glides, reassemble.
as described in video. Very well done. Thank you
Super Simple. Remove lower front panel (2 screws). Remove front door & panel (2 more screws). Disconnect push on wire connectors after marking each side with a sharpie pen (for easy re-assembly). Top hinges up towards the rear and rests against the wall. Lift out the drum. Remove snap rings on the shaft that holds the guide wheels at the rear of the drum. remove wheels. One of the shaft pieces that holds the wheel was shot so I replaced that (2 screws). Put new wheels back on. This was actually fairly hard. the new shaft seemed to have a larger receiving end. with hammer and lube I eventually got it on. Re-assemble in reverse order. took about 20 minutes. the only special tool was snap ring pliers (could easily get snap rings off with a flat screw driver.
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