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PartSelect Number PS11742271
This dryer drum drive belt attaches to the motor pully and works the drum as the motor rotates. The belt has a length of 93- 3/6 inches, and wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pully. Replacing the rib belt could solve symptoms such as a screeching noisy dryer when it tumbles, a broken belt (dryer will not tumble if its broken), no heat or not enough heat, and/or the dryer will not start. The tools to use for this repair are a nut driver and a putty knife. Remember to unplug the dryer before installing the part and protect your hands by wearing gloves.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Remove front panel, lint basket, motor mounts,exhaust hood, front drum brackets. Then slip serpentine belt around drum, pressure w/ tension idler pulley and slip around drive motor spindle. Replace all parts in reverse order (a two person job).Vacuumed inside of dryer (full of lint.)
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Pulled off the lower panel with 5/16 socket.Pulled off the door assembly by removing the two screws at the bottom of the door assembly. I pulled down a little and then out. be carefull of the wires. Other posts said to remove. The wires were long enough I did not have to remove them. I just leaned it against the wall. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front piece in.pulled it off replaced brackets , installed self adhesive felt(stuck good) and then glides. Mine were thin but not the problem. I then reached under the drum and released the belt from the tensioner. I then pulled the whole drum out.This is the time to vacum out good. I could get to the rear rollers very easy. The left roller was shot and the shaft half wore into(the problem). I pulled off the two screws holding the roller support. Normally You have to remove the wheel with snap ring pliers first to remove the support. In this case snap ring long gone. Replaced support shaft, installed thrust washers and roller with grease for both sides. The right support shaft was still good. Removed tensioner pulley and inspected. It was just as good as the new one. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled. Put new belt on the tub and slid it back in. Be carefull to get the belt on the proper side of the tensioner. I then installed the front supprt in place to support the tub with the 4 screws. Spun the tub(felt good) then reached under and reinstalled belt to motor and tensioner. Spun again to check for belt alignment. (Check) Reinstalled door an lower panel. Test Quiet Sounds like new. Very easy! I hope this helps someone just as the other post has helped me. Blessings to all.
Damper kit and Springs corrected the problem. Follow the instrutions listed on this web site and all went well..The only problem was with the damper kit. The "kit" did not include the glue needed to replace the damper pads. This cost a delay on a day and trip to a local parts store that I did not want to make. So be sure to order glue for the damper pads.
Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for access. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)
I am a widow. Had to pay for labor. He said it was motor. I said I would think about it. I looked on line at your site. Found symptoms that pointed toward idler pulley wheel with bearing, etc. Your site said: ZERO PERCENT CHANCE LOUD SCREECHING WAS MOTOR! So I ordered all parts above. I called repairman to return; he assured me he tried it enough to be assured it was motor bearings. So, I placed another order with you for a motor. Repairman just installed motor, screeching is gone! We installed the belt, pulley, etc..few of the above parts since dryer is old. PLEASE UPDATE YOUR WEBSITE TO INCLUDE MOTOR (BEARING) AS POSSIBILITY FOR LOUD SCREECHING.
Removed top, remove front panel, removed drum assembly brace, removed drum and belt . The belt and rotor were shot. I replaced both drum support rollers since i was there. Then replaced the motor and Idler lever and pulley, the put the belt on and put everything back. This unit will last a while longer and the grand total including next day air 175.00. I tried to just by the motor locally but for 242.00 I got every thing listed above. Thanks
First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.
Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.
First removed the bottom access panel, then the then pried the top lid open. Then, I could get to the four screws holding the front of the drum in place. Once that was removed, reached underneath drum and disconnected belt from tensioner pulley and motor. Removed the drum and discovered the problem. One of the two drum rollers had completely disintergrated from the shaft, actually "melting" off of its roller shaft. Removed both of the rollers and shafts by putting a flathead screwdriver on the slot of the shaft, and at the same time holding the locknut behind the bracket with a box wrench. I replaced both shafts and rollers and reused the same washers and snaprings. I used a screwdriver and a vice to remove the snap rings off of the old shafts. The best bet is to use a pair of snap ring pliers, which I didn't have. I used some white silicone grease to lube the new rollers up, reinstalled them and replaced the belt. You MUST route the belt around the drum before you install, then connect the belt to the motor underneath and wrap it around the tensioner. While I had everything opened up, I shop-vac"d the inside of my dryer(filthy). I did this before putting anything back together. Also, when re-installing the front dryer panel, make sure the motor inlet and the lint outlet tube form an airtight seal. All in all, this was a fairly strightforward job. The dryer now works great and is as quiet as a mouse.
I first thought the drum rollers were the source and replaced those. It took me 60 minutes to get the dryer disassembled and wires labeled for reassembly the first time. Knowing how to do it for this repair made everything go quicker. I removed the tension from the belt by pulling it away from the spring and then slipped the belt off the motor. I then removed the drum from the dryer to get to the idler arm assy.The trickest part of this repair was putting a box wrench on the nut on the motor side of the frame. I found a 3/8" box wrench with an angled handle that worked well. I then used a 7/16" socket on the other side of the idler arm base and removed the bolt. I was careful to note the position of the tension spring so that I could put it back together correctly. I then put the new idler arm assy in place with the bolt through the frame but had some trouble keeping the nut in the box wrench. I ended up using a bit of chewing gum to keep the nut in the box wrench long enough to get it threaded!From there it was a cinch - just put the belt back around the drum, the idler wheel and then pulled up on the arm while I slipped the belt over the motor. No more screeching!
Remove front pannelremove wires to light and switchremove drum paneldisconnect motor wiringunscrew motor mount replace idlerlever replace belt reassemble all parts
Squeling from inside dryer. To Fix-Pry dryer top cover off by popping cover off the two fastening clips located at about 3" inward from the two front corners. A screw driver at these two locations is easily inserted between the top cover and front panel. Next remove the two screws on the top inside of the driver approximate size 5/16 inch. Pull the top of the front panel outward and then note how the lower portion clips into the fram, lift the front panel off the clips and roll it to the right. Remove the 4 screws and bulkhead.Draw a picture of how the belt wraps around the drum and idler. Also note the belt orienation on the drum. Roll the belt off the idler pully and reomve the drum.Replaced Idler asembly by first removing the tension spring and lastly the retaining bolt.Reinstall everything in reverse order. Can be a bit tough getting the belt around the idler and motor pulley however this is managable. My machine runs great now!Once again Parts Select comes through with great delivery, perfect fit, good pricing, accurate parts list. This is my third purchase and I have been 100% pleased. By far the best on line service I have ever experienced.
first i checked the power supply then i checked each of the switches and limit fuses for continuity.to do that i had to take the front of the drier off, four screws there. then i removed the bad limit switch 2 screws,the door switch was bad so i replaced it, no screws. since i had the front off the drier i removed the four screws that held the drum in place and replaced the belt. assembled the drier in reverse order when the parts came. 1/2hour total labor.
1. Disconnect power and hose. Use a putty knife to release top of dryer. Two restraints couple inches in from each side on front. Raise top and do not remove. Block it up in vertical so it doesn't fly down to back.2. Disconnect five wires at front. Use magic marker to mark re-installation instructions on underside of top.2. Remove metal screws (2) that hold front to frame. Remove front.3. Pull dryer forward and put cardboard box, or some such thing under back to support when laying dryer down.4. Remove frame (4 screws) that supports filter assy and front of drum.5. Remove belt. Mark assy. sequence on underside of top.6. Remove drum.7. Stand dryer back to upright position.8. Disconnect spring from idler lever. Drop light may help here. Note position of lever for re-install of new.9. Unscrew bolt that holds idler lever. Nut is on back of bracket. Must re-install this way as bolt has pivot surface for lever on front side.10. Install new lever and reconnect spring.11. Lay dryer back on box.12. Put drum back in place. Insure it seats well all around the felt gasket. Any misalignment here and it will not rotate smoothly.13. Put belt around drum using small pieces of tape to hold it into position around drum, and them depress the idler lever and install belt around motor pulley. Rotate drum to insure it rotates smoothly. Remove tape.14. Re-install filter bracket and insure drum seats nicely in felt gasket. Again, rotate to insure smooth operation.15. Pull dryer back to standing position and reinstall the front, and re-connect the wires.16. Lower top and push down to reconnect locking devices.17. Plug in dryer and turn on to see if all is well.18. Re-install hose and start drying all those clothes.
removed front cover 2 lower screws. once front cover was off, the front drum support bracket was visable. removed 4 screws that hold that in. the drum is now loose and not supported in the front. pulled drive belt tensioner back to release belt. removed 2 top cover screws to get more vertical room to lift drum out. once drum was out, i used a snap ring plyers to take retainer ring off to remove damaged rear drum support rollers. replaced both rear rollers. also replaced drive belt and door lamp. the bearing in the left roller had seized and torn a big hole thru the roller . assembled in reverse order. now drum is nice and quiet
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